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That should make light work of getting a drum off or three! Just remember some heat might be needed to get the ridge of the drum over on t the brake shoes, or it might just rip the brake shoes to shreds. Absolutely John. The puller would be capable of exerting a lot of force, but I only want to put...

I spent a little time in work today practising my fabrication and come up with a puller for the other 3 drums. It is a little close to the hub, but still works a treat..

Stephen.

Success!! I put a little heat on the brake drum and it was enough to release it from the hub.
Thanks all for the help..

Stephen.

Thanks John,
Looking at it all, the whole lot is in surprisingly good shape. I have dressed the commutator and cleaned it all out and will rebuild it when the new bearings arrive and the field windings have dried out completely..

If you can't even turn the drum on the hub, then along with puller type unit you could add some heat from an electric heat gun. That would make the drum expand, maybe just enough to allow you to turn it back and forth a bit. The drum turns fine as I have adjusted the shoes away from the drum, so it...

Thanks guys. The drum seems to be stuck stuck solid on the hub so rhis is my main problem as I was wondering if I had missed something. If the drum was loose on the hub I would be happy enough and as Gary has suggested, it would be a matter of getting the drum over the unworn inner lip. The drum wil...

Wise words John, I might indeed.
The back bearing was an open bearing (6002) and I would blame this for creating some of the mess as some of the grease had escaped and the carbon dust had stuck to everything. It will be replaced by a 6202-2RS with rubber seals.

Hi all, Just a quick question. I am trying to start stripping the hubs, but I am stuck at the first hurdle. Wheel off, brakes adjusters backed off, drum retaining screw removed and steel shim removed, but the drum won't budge. I have tried to persuade it with a hide mallet but don't want to go too h...

Well, I went and done it! Dynastart stripped and dunked.. It got a fairly good wash in degreaser and rinsed off gently with fresh water. All of the parts are dying off now and will be for a week or so..
I have attached a few of before and after photos..

Stephen.

Thanks John, As long as the moisture would not affect the windings. I have cleaned out modern motors with degrease before and it worked out very well after drying for a week or so, but I am a little nervous of this dynastart because of its age and conductor coatings.. The end plate shouldn't be an i...

Hi all, I am going through my engine and I have stripped the Dynastart. Apart from needing a bearing, the insides are very dirty and full of carbon dust. Is there a best way to clean the insides? I have previously used engine degreaser to wash motor windings out of 3-phase motors, but I would be wor...

Looks the ticket as well.. This is the one that I used several years ago on a Ducati bike I had. The Tank was really bad when I bought it and I thought at the time that a new tank would have been required.. The first thing I done when I opened the tank was to throw some run oil in to try to neutrali...

Yep, from the responses, I think I will strip it and expose the gremlins inside... At least, I'll know what it good metal and what is not.. Replace the old metal for good and weld up... I previously used a tank sealer from a well known UK vehicle restoration supplies company on a bike tank and I hav...

Hi John, I guess you are correct.. It would be the proper job to cut the rubbish out and start with new metal again.. I suppose with all of that brazing already there, it would be a tad difficult to get rid of it prior to welding as the weld wouldn't like it.. As you say, the rust can be removed by ...

Hi all, I'm not sure if this is the correct place to put this, but I'll go for it anyway.. I am in a bit of a quandary about my fuel tank.. It is in a bit of a poor state, (please see the photos), but still holding fuel.. It has been plated on the bottom and brazed heavily to seal it. The question i...

Hi Tinkerer, it might help a bit if you add your location etc to your profile - that way people are more likely to be able to help you Hi, Apologies I am only getting back now.. I am in Northern Ireland UK.. The check straps are something I would need, but I am more in need of a door lock at the mi...

Hi all,
Anyone out there have any Door bits for canvas front doors? I need a Door Handle and lock mechanism, Door release straps on the inside and the Check Straps..

If anyone could help, I would appreciate it..

Thanks.

I know in Ireland, I have only ever seen 2 other Haflingers (not including my current one), and both of them were ours... My father bought them in the late 70's and sold them in the early 80's. I know they were 60's and SWB with canvas.. I would love to know where they went.. The disease started the...

Hi, you are correct Julian that the Club ( Haflinger and Pinzgauer Club UK ) did do a survey a few years back the result was 53 road worthy Haflingers however not all Members replied to the survey so there maybe a few more. I can tell you from our archive material that between 1961 & 1975 there...

There is a load of info on Constantin's website - see http://tdc.haflinger-4wd.com/index.php http://tdc.haflinger-4wd.com/literature/miscellaneous/1980-haflinger-sales.php shows that ~16,500 were built. I'm not sure how many are still running / road worthy, but the UK Club did do a survey a couple ...