TheHaflinger.com

Thanks. I was able to get it all sorted. Took a few hours of machining and such and the result is nothing I would offer a customer, but its done. Its not all back together yet, but it spins freely and im confident thermal expansion isnt going to be an issue. Ugh, what a shitty lesson. If anyone ever...

Ok, I know what happened now. Apparently during assembly, my tapping must have had one of the square drive block misaligned. This in turn squished the channel that the circlip goes into. If you have ever looked at these shims, they are not just flat. They have a chamfer in the corner to help secure ...

According to the parts book, the shim starts at 1mm and goes up in 0.05 steps all the way to 2mm. The sliding sleve should come out and allow you to remove ALL the internals right down to two little cog which are at 90 degrees to the bigger cogs on the end of the sleeves. (the sleeves come into the...

I am afraid I cannot help much but I did pull my front diff off the tube about 9 years ago to replace some noisy bearings. I cannot remember much except it was easy to do and everything seemed quite logical - i had it completely apart - so I suspect you have some issues there. Some pics. 2014-10-26...

I have not tried that. I did put it in an industrial part washer to help clean it, but of course thats not great for rust removal. Diff lock sleeve moves freely without issue. But when I put that shim in along with the clip, it will bind. I did cheat a little and machine the shim down to be a little...

So, the repair manual once again failed. I searched here and didnt find a whole lot. still trying to sort this haffie out. I replaced all the bearings and seals from the output of the backbone forward relating to the front drivetrain. Previous symptoms were broken 4wd engagement lever, really loud b...

man, dont get me started on those control arm pins!! ugh! hate those! the radius arm though, you cannot remove that stud without removing the nut toward the rear. you cannot get a socket in there either with a ratchet as there is no clearance. the tube depth on the arm prevents you from getting a wr...

there is no breather. I think they expect the leaks to be enough compensation.

hope it helps someone! the probability is low though since who the fuck removes the entire lever? lol! but, information is great to have!

So, in my saga of blowing untold amounts of money on this thing, I needed to fix the 4wd engagement. The shaft was broken off the housing and stuck in 4wd mode. Fine for offroading, not fine for the cv joint I had to replace. Everything was removed from the shaft outward. Everything. So, Dale and Ru...

The picture is indicating the rod removed with the backbone still attached to the gearbox. I had to basically rebuild the entire front end, so I installed bilstein shocks and new springs while I was at it all around. The other three rods come off without interference. but THIS one you cannot remove ...

I didnt find much in the repair manual (shocking) regarding this service. Replacing all the radius rod bushings on one of my haffies and ran into this piece of shit engineering. You cannot remove the shaft that goes into the backbone on this particular corner without separating the backbone from the...

Perfect! Thanks!!

Thanks so much!! perfect!! Could you measure the length of each leg?

yup! thats the part i am after. 701.1.64.001.2

thanks for posting the pics. so on the left side underneath where your picture shows a spare, that is where the jerry can goes. on the right side underneath is where the PTO driven winch would go. Im not near it right now, so cant take any pics to show it. im sure having it on the engine lid would m...

Ja, hopefully someone does. I posted on the Facebook page too about it, but that pages seems to be show and tell mostly and not much help for technical questions. Im sure I could make one with ease, but as you said, closer to original is better. Hell, even if I could find a picture of it that isnt j...

Oh, I fully understand that I may need to fabricate it. as this is an early MKI, it has no space being a SWB to fit the spare in the left side. That is occupied by a storage box, jerry can, and battery box. I know its not going to be difficult at all. But, the ask could make it much easier. Especial...

This particular Haffie had it mounted here from new. The bolt holes are present on the engine cover. Reason it cannot go under the platform is it was originally equipped with a PTO driven winch under the right side of teh platform. It is SWB.

Anyone on here happen to have the original spare tire bracket that mounts the spare tire on the engine cover? I would like to make one for one of my Haffies, so if someone had one, could you take some measurements? or pictures? Thanks in advance!