TheHaflinger.com

Most likely done in Swiss motor pool. I looked at it closely when it was here. If you want to remove it, just pull the roll bar and grind the welds.
On the Plus side, it does give extra strength to roll bar.

I have a spare float and intake sitting here if you need them.

Love it, great lawn art
Something like that is likely to attract Garden Gnomes

Have fun trying to shift gears in cold weather
There is a reason the factory used straight 90wt. 75-140wt is very viscous at low temps

Enjoy

The long leather straps are for securing the front windscreen supports at the center of the roll bar when it is lowered.(rods fold to center) As far as strap width, it varies slightly over the years and by manufacturer. The thin metal strips in the top left of picture are for the weather strip betwe...

Use the same instructions as for Pinzgauer.
The chain installation instructions were one of the loose leaf items with operator manual.

That's the 3000 Amp super fuse!

I always hand mount mine, but always tubeless. Just step on far side of tire to keep it in the deepest part of the wheel, it will then fit around rim easier.

General rule on tire diameter difference on 4x4 is 1/2" max.
This is actually one of the ASE test questions for Brake and front end certification.

Got lucky! will be using stock parts! For hinges, I spent $20 for 2 pair of weld on 5/16" pin and socket sets, I will just weld the socket side to the roll bar. Stock hinge pin fits the socket. But a standard slam lock can be modified to work and the weld on hinges can be made to work very easi...

So I found a little time to get started on making some rear doors using Steve's Cad file. First had to build a flat jig as the bend is easier to deal with once the frame is welded together. When making jig, add 2mm to overall height to compensate for bend. OK, here are some pictures: http://img.phot...

Standard Laminated glass, should be less than $50(US) each, you could also opt to go tinted(AS1)

There are 2 size stem holes depending on year, but most just install pop in valve stems and go tubeless with stock rims/tires(tyres).
Ran mine tubeless for 5 years before going to 13" Fiat wheels.

I pressure washed it already, all the heavy stuff is out.

Hey Dan, how ya doing?

We used 3/4" .090 wall tube and 1/2" bar stock for the pins.
For the horizontal bars, I had some thin wall tubing from an old bed frame that I will change out later.
Still trying to find a good image of the type C slant back bow mounting as it is hinged to the door jamb bow.

Here are promised pictures http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v510/Goatwerks/Haflinger/IMG_1755_zpsvkpqhdro.jpg Only four bends needed, bow naturally curves on top when installed. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v510/Goatwerks/Haflinger/IMG_1757_zpsoqspc85o.jpg Here is the bender http://img.photobu...

Ok, finally got my bows and horizontal bars done. I will be making 2 top types for my Haflinger. First config will be type"C" Slant back(4 door) as it is unique to the Bug Eye type Haflinger. This type has the rear 45 deg bow hinged to the center bow near the base. The second type will be ...

65-115 PSI, depending on year and compression ratio.
Available stock ratio's were, 6.7:1, 7.2:1, and 7.8:1.