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I think it must have gotten through the carburetor then, as I used a marine fuel tank that sits on the truck bed with a primer bulb, and I suspect the bulb must have kept the pressure up when the engine was off. Speaking of carb check valves, when I disassembled mine for cleaning a year ago, I broke...

A few times now I've checked my oil only to find it murky, greenish, and smelling strongly of gas. So I change it, reset the fuel pump diaphragm, because I know it leaks fuel to the outside, and I've even pulled the pump off and tried squeezing fuel in to see if it leaks to the engine side, and I do...

Alright. So I guess the suppressed wires I tried must have been bad. What do you guys mean by the suppression cap? Is that the rubber boot? Did the Haflinger originally come with suppression caps? I like the look of the stock ignition wire ends with their orange boots at the end and they seem to wor...

Does it make a difference as to what kind of ignition wires to use for the plugs and coil to distributor? I ask this because my original wires and the replacements I got from HaflingerTechnik have next to zero resistance, while modern ignition wires have comparatively high resistance. When I ran wit...

When I lose traction, I push in the diff locks, leave it running in gear, and get out and push. Then, when it starts moving, I run after it and jump in.

Im only half-joking. It happened on one mini-adventure.

Thanks for your answers. I'll check next time I have it running. My compression is okay, but I do have oil residue on that tube. On the other hand, my plugs do get oily. And the one time I ran the engine with the filler cap off, it felt as though I could have filled a balloon with the air coming out...

For what its worth, mine is a Canadian '72 and I have the bottom photo style as well.
On an unrelated note - how much pulsating air pressure should there be out of the breather when the engine is running?

I am going to fit an oil pressure gauge and determine what exactly is happening, as I have to set my idle to about 1000RPM to put the pressure warning light out, and I'm scared that even then, there might not be much more pressure than the threshold for the light. (For some stupid reason, I didn't t...

Sorry if this question hijacks the thread topic a little, but... what is one to do if one needs the mushroom valves recut? I understand there's supposed to be a special tool from SDP, but is there any other way to do it? Does anyone with such a special tool offer a service?

I wanted to ask this very question, but I want to repaint the whole vehicle eventually.

I hope someone has an answer.

Hi John, I did replace the o-ring under the shaft on the collar. I had a thin shallow groove on the collar where the seal ran, not as bad as the ones you guys had, I think, but I got a speedi-sleeve for it anyway. In the end, I opted to use the new replacement collar I got, as the price I paid for t...

So I just received all the parts I think I need for this, and put it all back together. Everything went smoothly, but I've got some questions just to make sure I did it right. I've attached some photos as well. The mud deflector collar that was on there had a notch struck into it to fit down a groov...

Does anyone know if I can use a wire brush or wire wheel to clean up the cast pieces of the chassis? Would that take off some kind of coating that protects it from rusting, or is it fine to use whatever means is easiest to clean all the oily grime off the hubs, diff arms, gearbox, central tube, etc?

While I wait for the seals, I started disassembly. Everything went smoothly except getting the old oil seals off. Neither the one in the CV cup, nor the one in the diff arm want to come out nicely. The CV cup one I scraped with a screwdriver and knife very carefully and it came off in little pieces,...

I did this job last year on a Haflinger that had no functioning brake system in living memory, and in my case a few things took a lot longer than normally necessary, so the following experience may not apply to you and merely serves as an example of what surprises could take more time. For example, ...

I can't thank you enough for going through the time to explain it so thoroughly. I feel more confident about doing this now, and it is certain to help not only myself. Maybe if we gather all the useful material from the forum, we could make some kind of PDF addendum to the official repair manual? I ...

So do I have to take apart the hub, or just pull it off the car after taking off the two bolts and the brake line? Does the CV joint come apart from the hub in this procedure, or do I do it while its still attached to the hub? And there aren't any seals that could break on the bolts that hold the hu...

I don't know how common a problem this is, but the latches attached to the body meant to hold the "lid" of the spare tire and gas can holders were seized on my vehicle and no amount of twisting or penetrating oil would free them. My solution was to heat them up for a minute with a propane ...

The owner's manual says that the front drive joints need to be lubricated at some point. I am thinking of attempting this, as I doubt it's been done in the past decade or two on my vehicle. The manual makes it seem simple, but I have doubts about that too. Since it involves some disassembly, I'm wor...

I found both a fuel gauge, fuel sender and a tacho on a burnt out fiberglass car lying around the farm I work at. They were both VDO brand, like the Haffy gauges, and the tank sender unit corresponded exactly to the float-type sender in the Haffy parts manual, even fits perfectly into the Haffy tank...