What specific pictures/ procedures would group like to see?

[Goatwerks]

As thread title states, I have an extensive personal collection of repair pictures as I do repair Haflingers/Pinzgauers and some Unimogs.
Even some rare variants have visited .
I had the task of putting this trainer back together and repair the faults installed by it's last training class.
Had only 29Km on it and it left with 32Km(had to test drive and yes it can pull fronts off ground). It currently lives at Waldersee Farms, Home of NW Mogfest!



Canadian spec AP703 and AP700, last pic is my US spec AP700 Pathfinder before major repairs/paint.

[safari-haf]

Hi Jim,

The more info you post on this forum the better for me! I live in Kenya with limited local and personal mechanical experience, so I heavily rely on this forum and the internet in general for repair info. The one that really worries me is the gearbox. One of my Haflingers seems to have 2 issues. One is staying in 3rd gear, it pops out regularly and another is the syncro for 2nd gear doesn't work. Incidentally it had been converted to a 1300cc Subaru Engine by a previous owner (obviously limited engine replacement options available in Kenya). My other haflinger (all original with working engine) that I am currently trying to restore seems to have an issue with the gear change in general. I have not been able to test drive it yet as I'm still fighting with the brakes, but whilst stationary and engine off, the gears don't quite seem to be where they should be especially reverse and 1st. both are 4 speeds.

The more info the merrier!

Cheers,

Paul

[heinkeljb]

Hi Paul,

As far as your Brakes go, there really shouldn't be too much that can be wrong. Leaks are most likely and might be sorted by replacing the piston seals, but as it is difficult to know which size / make of seal to go for... it would probably be easier to replace the whole wheel cylinder(s).
If you are having trouble with the brake staying on, the most likely reason other than bits just being rusted up, is the flexible pipes. These tend to de-laminate internally and then work as one way valves - always holding the brake shoes in the extended position. Length of the flexible hoses shouldn't be too critical as long as they are longer and not shorter! For the cost of five brake hose I would replace all of them.
Brake shoes and the little top springs can present a challenge until you learn the trick of using a wire hook to pull and twist them into position. Have a read of the posts relating to brakes on here to maybe get a better idea. If you are still struggling, post again and I'll see if I an post a video showing how.

We need some pictures of your engine transplant one - new thread for that!

John

[Goatwerks]

Popping out of gear is a symptom of worn out shaft bearings. The trans will have to come apart.
Start a thread in drivetrain/transmission section.
Follow my signature link to photobucket, look in Haflinger albums and you will see what it takes and what it looks like.
BTW, 4 speed transmissions are very similar inside, you just have a different bearing plate and no crawler.
Group has permissions to use any of my tech photo's as long as photo source is noted

[safari-haf]

Hi Paul,

As far as your Brakes go, there really shouldn't be too much that can be wrong. Leaks are most likely and might be sorted by replacing the piston seals, but as it is difficult to know which size / make of seal to go for... it would probably be easier to replace the whole wheel cylinder(s).
If you are having trouble with the brake staying on, the most likely reason other than bits just being rusted up, is the flexible pipes. These tend to de-laminate internally and then work as one way valves - always holding the brake shoes in the extended position. Length of the flexible hoses shouldn't be too critical as long as they are longer and not shorter! For the cost of five brake hose I would replace all of them.
Brake shoes and the little top springs can present a challenge until you learn the trick of using a wire hook to pull and twist them into position. Have a read of the posts relating to brakes on here to maybe get a better idea. If you are still struggling, post again and I'll see if I an post a video showing how.

We need some pictures of your engine transplant one - new thread for that!

John

Yes you are right, the brakes should be straight forward. I did buy the wheel cylinder kits (pistons and rubbers) from Dale at Haflinger Technik for both my Haflingers. That was the only thing stopping the Subaru Engined one from being used (ignoring the gearbox niggles) I fixed them with alot of patience and some needle-nosed pliers (not being aware of the wire hook trick! My other Haflinger which I literally rescued from the scrappers is another story. It probably hadn't moved for a 15 years or so and was missing all sorts of parts. I bought a new Master Cylinder, then when I went to actually work on the brakes found that 2 of the metal pipes needed replacing (one broken, one squashed) and I was missing the rubber grommet/stopper that the pipe from the fluid reservoir plugs into. Finally reconditioned the brake cylinders, pipes, shoes, etc; only to find that (as you advise) the flexible hoses, which look great on the outside are completely blocked, so now i am waiting for replacements of those. Oh and also the reservoir seems to have rust wholes in it! so that's being braised. Hopefully this weekend i will get the brakes working!

I will try and get some pictures of the Subaru engine transplant soon. I sent that Haflinger down to the family beach house so might be a little while!

Cheers,

Paul