What did you do with your Haflinger today?

[wojo12]

Ok, nownI understand! Haflinger’s do NOT have a headlight relay! They were all built with suitable contacts to carry the current of any device at the end of the wire. Only exception to this rule is the indicators, but that is only because they turn on and off by themselves.

If you want to keep the headlight relay, relocate it to under the dash.

THere is a foot operated dip switch down by the clutch, are you confusing that with a relay? It should be far enough out of the way not to be operated by your foot on the clutch pedal.

John

Here's a picture of the relay

John W

[wojo12]

The gearbox with the casting is an early gearbox and the casting is a mounting point for the handbrake cable. Later vehicles did not have the casting as they fixed the handbrake cable to the platform instead.
A bit of steel wool will highlight your chassis number.

Does it match the one on you VIN plate?

Engine number is on the vertical surface near where the dip stick goes into the crankcase.

John

Yes, chassis number matches. My Haf has had an engine swap at some stage, probably about 10 years ago.

I appreciate your help, John

Keep on Haffing

John W

[heinkeljb]

Hi John,

Definitely a non standard addition to you Haflinger! You can keep it itbut if it is causing you issues when you put your foot on the clutch, you will have to re-locate it.

Do you know what the wattage of your headlight bulbs are? It might have been put in to cope with higher than 35watt bulbs.

John

[wojo12]

Hi John,

Definitely a non standard addition to you Haflinger! You can keep it itbut if it is causing you issues when you put your foot on the clutch, you will have to re-locate it.

Do you know what the wattage of your headlight bulbs are? It might have been put in to cope with higher than 35watt bulbs.

John

John

I've only checked to see if they work for roadworthy purposes. Lots of old silicone around the back of the light, presumable to keep water out. It looks like you undo three nuts and pull the headlight out the front?

I've just finished de-greasing the RH rear of the engine/gearbox area in anticipation of my mechanic tackling the axle boot on that side. Has anyone used the split boots that seem to be available these days?

John W

[AustHaflinger]

I've just finished de-greasing the RH rear of the engine/gearbox area in anticipation of my mechanic tackling the axle boot on that side. Has anyone used the split boots that seem to be available these days?

John W

I would not use anything else - all four boots on my vehicle are of the split type. Using them saves having to remove the suspension arms to do a replacement. Removing the front suspension is not such an issue but the rears are a real pain as it is almost impossible to remove the rear swing arm fulcrum pins to remove the swing arm.

Using the split boots saves a lot of time and effort but in my view you do need to use a lot of silicon sealant as insurance. The ones I used are held together with 4 small nuts and bolts to hold them together with brass clamps at either end. Being repro parts of course the clamps were a little large so I had to shorten them a little by cutting them and rejoining with solder - however once sorted they have been great.

Where they cam into their own is when I was working on a rear hub and being a little careless the rear axle slid out of the diff. You cannot just push it back as you have to align the stones on the end of the axle in the diff and you need to be able to see them to do this. I just undid my boot and put it all back together OK. If I had a fixed boot the swing arm would have to come out which would have been a real pain with those rear fulcrum pins having difficult access.

garry

[wojo12]

I've just finished de-greasing the RH rear of the engine/gearbox area in anticipation of my mechanic tackling the axle boot on that side. Has anyone used the split boots that seem to be available these days?

John W

I would not use anything else - all four boots on my vehicle are of the split type. Using them saves having to remove the suspension arms to do a replacement. Removing the front suspension is not such an issue but the rears are a real pain as it is almost impossible to remove the rear swing arm fulcrum pins to remove the swing arm.

Using the split boots saves a lot of time and effort but in my view you do need to use a lot of silicon sealant as insurance. The ones I used are held together with 4 small nuts and bolts to hold them together with brass clamps at either end. Being repro parts of course the clamps were a little large so I had to shorten them a little by cutting them and rejoining with solder - however once sorted they have been great.

Where they cam into their own is when I was working on a rear hub and being a little careless the rear axle slid out of the diff. You cannot just push it back as you have to align the stones on the end of the axle in the diff and you need to be able to see them to do this. I just undid my boot and put it all back together OK. If I had a fixed boot the swing arm would have to come out which would have been a real pain with those rear fulcrum pins having difficult access.

garry

Great info, again, Garry - where do I source them from? Would you have thepart number of the ones you use?


John W

[AustHaflinger]

With one exception I have bought all my parts from Haflinger Technik in Glasgow Scotland - that is where I got mine - not sure there is a specific number for the split boots but the normal boots number is in the parts manual.

I got mine from them and as I said I did have to modify the clamps as I indicated - now the clamps I got for the front were all OK - but the second lot I bought a couple of months later are the ones I had issues with so they obviously got their stock from different suppliers - I did bring the issue to their attention but do not know if they fixed it - these type of problems are common with all repro parts for all cars.

Give Dale or Ruth a call and they will be able to fix you up - I called Ruth this time last night and ordered my low fuel sensor. Now you cannot order (well pay) online so you need to call them with your credit card or if your bank can do it international EFT then that would be an option.

Garry

[wojo12]

This afternoon, I went to help a friend move his collection of 60 cars, 200 tractors, 100 stationary engines and 3 prime movers to his new premises - what a job he has. So I ended up having to drive Haf home in the dark and impending storm, I definitely need to look at a headlight upgrade or some subtle driving lights, if the electrical system handle it!!


Keeping on Haffing

John W

[heinkeljb]

John, canI suggest you start a new thread for topics which are really separate tasks? It is all very well adding to this thread about what you have done with your Haflinger today, but what you are doing could come under a new thread about restoration of your Haflinger. I think the original intention of this thread was that it dealt with you taking your Haf for a drive on a trail or something..

It can make searching for info a bit of a chore if you have to read every post in a 12 page thread.

John

[wojo12]

John, canI suggest you start a new thread for topics which are really separate tasks? It is all very well adding to this thread about what you have done with your Haflinger today, but what you are doing could come under a new thread about restoration of your Haflinger. I think the original intention of this thread was that it dealt with you taking your Haf for a drive on a trail or something..

It can make searching for info a bit of a chore if you have to read every post in a 12 page thread.

John

Fixed !!

[wojo12]

Just remember to do ALL the maintenance if you are doing that sort of mileage - Remember ALL the grease points.

It will like you for oil / filter changes done on time!

John

What grease should I buy?

John W

[heinkeljb]

Any grease is better than none!!
Buy a lithium based grease - i.e. any automotive grease and it will be fine. Only exception is the front universal joints which recommend a molybdenum disufide grease.

John

[Czechsix]

I unloaded it from the trailer, after a month or so of travel and storage. Brought it up from Southern California home to Alaska.

Couple of cranks, started right up.

[AustHaflinger]

Woke up a bit earlier than usual today and didn't feel like working in the garage so decided to take the Haf for a drive.

Canberra is an inland Capital, so surrounded by the country side and just to the west is a nice 80km loop that is mostly out of the city - interesting I do not travel more than about 12km from my home in a straight line.

Lots of ups and downs and is very relaxing at the moderate pace the Haflinger provides. Though being somewhat open there is nothing like the wiff of road kill in the hot baking Aussie midday sun

For a change I did the loop clockwise so the first 15km is through the city down a bit of motorway - has traffic lights though and I hit every one.

Then onto the open road.

Then a stop by the local deep space tracking station at Tidbinbilla. Unfortunately the coffee shop was closed.

A nice distraction and a paddle in the really cold water.

And then a stop by the picnic ground at the bottom of the Cotter Dam which is one of the city's water sources.

Then back home - all in all a very pleasant drive aided by some Sony noise cancelling headphones - it has always amazed me how much noise there is in the cabin when the engine and exhaust is at the back but the front diff makes up for it. With the headphones on, driving is nice and quiet but you can still hear the machinery burning and turning just in case there is an issue.

Covered 95km in two hours and only dropped 800ml of engine oil - gotta fix that oil leak in the oil filter housing.

So I nice drive.

Garry

[heinkeljb]

Yep, fix that leak. The oil is supposed to stay in the engine!

Sound like a good drive, but I suppose could get boring if that's the only set of roads to use. As you say, go anticlockwise this time and next time go clockwise...

John

[AustHaflinger]

Sound like a good drive, but I suppose could get boring if that's the only set of roads to use. As you say, go anticlockwise this time and next time go clockwise...

John

Well its not the only set of roads to use - just a nice drive. The closest town to the west is 100km away - in a straight line and 121km by logging roads - so I have 6000sq miles of "tiger" country with nothing in it except forest and heights of up to 6,000ft so plenty of places to go. Similar to the south and east.

The road I went on today is just a nice easy drive, plenty to look at and plenty of places to stop. Is better than driving to Macdonalds and back