What did you do with your Haflinger today?

[heinkeljb]

Does it still look as nice and clean?

John

[Ole]

Garry, are you sure it is not running on diesel? It has some of the diesel clatter going on:)

So does your engine go Dak a Dak or is nice an quiet?

Garry

Well my engine is on the floor not running at all at the moment. I would not say it is quiet when running, but maybe more of a leaky exhaust kind of sound than the Dak Dak sound. I'll try to make a video when it is back in the Haf.

[pureredcordial]

Still nice and clean sitting in the garage. Greased all the front end and replaced nipples that were too blocked. Bought some oil to change fluids...but not changed. That's enough for 2018 surely.

[AustHaflinger]

Well that is not much - I was expecting it to be registered and on the road

[Ole]

Got the engine back in today after replacing the clutch bearings and crank oil seal. It mostly went according to plan exept for the new very poor fitting intake manifold (Autoquariat).

It started bad with a shabby finish and finding bits of mig welding wire inside the manifold.

When it was bolted down to the heads there was about 10mm gap where it was supposed to meet the exhaust manifold flanges and enough sideways misalignment that the bolts holding the flanges together was not even close to going through.

The baseplate for the carb had the bolt holes drilled with the correct center distance front to back, but left to right they where about one half studbolt diameter of. On thop of this the baseplate was very warped and the treaded holes were not tapped straight so the studbolts holding the carb down was pointing in all directions when screwed in.

When it came to fasten the aircleaner housing to the support on the intakemanifold this did not have the original welded on nut in the back and the hole on the bracket for the bolt was to narrow. But at this point I kind of expected that so no worries there. In hindsight I shoud have returned this manifold as the workmanship was not up to par. This is not to bash Autoquariat as they have given me nothing but good service and a lot of exellent parts the last few months. But whoever bends pipes for them (exhaust manifold was same story), need to find another job.

After a lot of persuading, swearing, hammering, filing and drilling it is now in and tested. It seems to run a little smoother now. Nut sure if it is the valve adjustment or the new intake with preheating (old preheat tubes was rusted away) doing this.

Garry, are you sure it is not running on diesel? It has some of the diesel clatter going on:)

So does your engine go Dak a Dak or is nice an quiet?

Garry

Garry now you can check for your self here:): https://1drv.ms/v/s!AqSUPnxuI53bmz4VwhWAaL8NTtLm

[AustHaflinger]

Unfortunately repro parts these days are a shocker - for all makes.

I got my manifold from Haflinger Technik in Scotland and it fitted very well.

Your engine sounds good - nice and smooth.

Garry

[wojo12]

Today I removed the ugly spare wheel mount which was bolted to the engine cover. Now to make a frame to carry it beneath the tray!

Also replaced the two dynastart belts.

I can't believe that I've done 500km since I bought it a month ago!!

Cheers

John

[Ole]

500km in a month is pretty good for a Haflinger:)

[wojo12]

500km in a month is pretty good for a Haflinger:)

It's so much fun that I rarely use my car now!

[heinkeljb]

Just remember to do ALL the maintenance if you are doing that sort of mileage - Remember ALL the grease points.

It will like you for oil / filter changes done on time!

John

[wojo12]

Headlights sorted - aftermarket relay mounted between the horn and the clutch pedal, Everything I depress the clutch the wire comes off - relocation or re-alignment planned!!

Had another go a getting the wipers to park, probably caused by previous owner re-routing original loom without allowing for the folding down of the windscreen!! No success yet - there can't be too many different ways of connecting three wires.

I removed the retro-fitted single rifle holder in my non-army Haf. Apart from the date on the nameplate (1974), how can I establish that it is indeed a 1974 model? Those ID plates could easily be swapped between vehicles or even it could be fitted with a new ID plate stamped to suit. My ID plate, for example is almost under the driver's (RHS) seat, which I believe to be the wrong place.

Cheers

John W

[heinkeljb]

The horn wire goes down the center of the steering column. I replaced mine with some “extra flex” wire asame as the sort of wire you get for the probes that come with a multimeter ( good addition to your toolkit).
Then make sure the wire is long enough to allow you to go lock to lock and to press the clutch lever down.
As far as checking it is a 1974 model - other than the platform having the petrol tank under left hand front seat, and the two cylinder head access panels on the engine side walls, there is not a lot of difference between Haflingers produced after about 1969 / 1970.
John

[wojo12]

The horn wire goes down the center of the steering column. I replaced mine with some “extra flex” wire asame as the sort of wire you get for the probes that come with a multimeter ( good addition to your toolkit).
Then make sure the wire is long enough to allow you to go lock to lock and to press the clutch lever down.
As far as checking it is a 1974 model - other than the platform having the petrol tank under left hand front seat, and the two cylinder head access panels on the engine side walls, there is not a lot of difference between Haflingers produced after about 1969 / 1970.
John

It's the non-original headlight relay that is causing the problem - my foot keeps knocking the wire off it, causing no headlights!! The horn wiring is fine. I don't know where the original relay would have been mounted.

Cheers

John W

[AustHaflinger]

I removed the retro-fitted single rifle holder in my non-army Haf. Apart from the date on the nameplate (1974), how can I establish that it is indeed a 1974 model? Those ID plates could easily be swapped between vehicles or even it could be fitted with a new ID plate stamped to suit. My ID plate, for example is almost under the driver's (RHS) seat, which I believe to be the wrong place.

Cheers

John W

How do you know the rifle holder is retro fitted - many Australian civilian Haflingers had them optioned at build.

The vehicle's chassis number is the gearbox number - located on the drivers side - the vertical face just in front of the muffler.

Now my haf was built Jun 73 and has chassis 536.3063 so if your number is later this is a good indication that yours is from 74 - assuming it has not been swapped out for an earlier model.

You can apply for your Wagenstammkarte or build sheet. Here is mine

It has all your information including options - like the rifle holder - it is on mine.

I got mine from Haflinger Technik - expensive for what you get - a emailed scan of the document. There are other suppliers but I do not know who they are.

If your engine number, and gearbox number aligns with what is on your nomenclature plate then assumptions have to be made that all is correct. My plate is actually pop rivetted to my dash so they can be moved.

I think you said your vehicle had been registered in two states previously so if you can check those registrations you might get the confirmation. I was able to confirm my numbers on my 57 Land Rovers by going through the relevant Historic data information section of the NSW RMS.

Good luck

Garry

[heinkeljb]

Ok, nownI understand! Haflinger’s do NOT have a headlight relay! They were all built with suitable contacts to carry the current of any device at the end of the wire. Only exception to this rule is the indicators, but that is only because they turn on and off by themselves.

If you want to keep the headlight relay, relocate it to under the dash.

THere is a foot operated dip switch down by the clutch, are you confusing that with a relay? It should be far enough out of the way not to be operated by your foot on the clutch pedal.

John

[wojo12]

I removed the retro-fitted single rifle holder in my non-army Haf. Apart from the date on the nameplate (1974), how can I establish that it is indeed a 1974 model? Those ID plates could easily be swapped between vehicles or even it could be fitted with a new ID plate stamped to suit. My ID plate, for example is almost under the driver's (RHS) seat, which I believe to be the wrong place.

Cheers

John W

How do you know the rifle holder is retro fitted - many Australian civilian Haflingers had them optioned at build.

The vehicle's chassis number is the gearbox number - located on the drivers side - the vertical face just in front of the muffler.

Now my haf was built Jun 73 and has chassis 536.3063 so if your number is later this is a good indication that yours is from 74 - assuming it has not been swapped out for an earlier model.

You can apply for your Wagenstammkarte or build sheet. Here is mine

Wagenstammkarte.jpg

It has all your information including options - like the rifle holder - it is on mine.

I got mine from Haflinger Technik - expensive for what you get - a emailed scan of the document. There are other suppliers but I do not know who they are.

If your engine number, and gearbox number aligns with what is on your nomenclature plate then assumptions have to be made that all is correct. My plate is actually pop rivetted to my dash so they can be moved.

I think you said your vehicle had been registered in two states previously so if you can check those registrations you might get the confirmation. I was able to confirm my numbers on my 57 Land Rovers by going through the relevant Historic data information section of the NSW RMS.

Good luck

Garry

Point taken about rifle holder - it's out now.

So with chassis number of 5363162, the year looks correct. Couldn't find any number of the gearbox - just don't know exactly where to look!! Have you translated your vehicle build record st all?

In Qld, as far as I know, I cannot access past rego records, espec if they are not mine.

Cheers

John W

[AustHaflinger]

Couldn't find any number of the gearbox - just don't know exactly where to look!! Have you translated your vehicle build record st all?

Translated yes and I have it written down somewhere. I just used the online translator but had to type in most of the information which took a little while.

As I indicated the vehicle's chassis number is the gearbox number - located on the drivers side - the vertical face on the side of the gearbox - just in front of the muffler.

See the following three pics which should clarify the location - the number is circled in red with a red arrow pointing to the number.

If you zoom in on this pic you will see the number, partially obscured by a casting.

I hope these help - have you found the engine number?

Garry

Garry

[wojo12]

Ah ha - hidden behind that casting it must be.

Thanks heaps, Garry

John W

[wojo12]

In daylight and seeing where that cast bracket SHOULD be, I found it. Many thanks, Garry

John W

[heinkeljb]

The gearbox with the casting is an early gearbox and the casting is a mounting point for the handbrake cable. Later vehicles did not have the casting as they fixed the handbrake cable to the platform instead.
A bit of steel wool will highlight your chassis number.

Does it match the one on you VIN plate?

Engine number is on the vertical surface near where the dip stick goes into the crankcase.

John