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PostPosted: Tue Feb 02, 2016 5:51 am 
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Those 101 Ambulances are just too big, fat and heavy as well as being top heavy.

It looks too cold for me where you are.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 29, 2016 1:18 pm 
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Location: Inverness, Scotland
garrycol wrote:
It looks too cold for me where you are.


Well, yesterday the weather was quite pleasant - still not what you would call warm (about 8 deg C) but there was plenty of sunlight and it stayed dry! The days are getting longer too - it doesn't get dark until about 6.15pm which means we can get home and the vehicles unloaded and cleaned in the daylight - it all makes a big difference.

Yesterday's trial was held close to Nairn - a seaside town on the Moray Firth about 15 miles from Inverness; there was a decent turnout with 17 vehicles in the RTV class and 5 in the 'open' class.

The photos below are of a fellow club member Frank's Haflinger - his daughter and grandson were both driving and they both did well (better than me on some sections!). I've posted a couple of the other vehicles as well, that might be of interest to some of you.

Cheers,

John
Image

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Edit to sort photos.


Last edited by jhon on Thu Feb 01, 2018 3:09 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 29, 2016 4:05 pm 
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Location: Ontario, Canada
Looks like great weather and a lot of fun!
Was the haflinger really able to cross that mud hole?!

Also, does it have deeper than average rear seat wells? And are those rear seat belts in the back?


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 29, 2016 4:56 pm 
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Yakov wrote:
Also, does it have deeper than average rear seat wells?

AIUI all LWB Hafs have the deeper rear footwells (when compared to SWB Hafs)

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 29, 2016 7:11 pm 
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Location: Lewes, East Sussex - UK
LWB Haf's have deeper footwells as mentioned. I think it is because they can have 4 people sitting in the back and they all need some where to put their feet - actually, that doesn't really make sense because the lids are different sizes but that should have no bearing on the depth of the box.... Unless it was realised that most people do not want to sit with their knees up near their teeth!
In which case why didn't they make the foot wells deeper on the SWB version once they had made the deeper ones for the LWB?

So sorry, can't provide a real reason as to why, just that they are!

John

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 29, 2016 7:43 pm 
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Location: Inverness, Scotland
Yakov wrote:
Was the haflinger really able to cross that mud hole?!


Well... it did, sort-of; :lol: The third photo down shows it just as it came out of the hole, spluttering, then eventually died - water had got in about the distributor and the plug leads. Not a major problem - it cleared enough to eventually limp to the end of the section. (I used a little more discretion and kept mostly out of the water - I picked up a couple of penalty points for missing the gate but was happy not to have the engine bay and the hubs/drums full of muddy clag.)

Yakov wrote:
Also, does it have deeper than average rear seat wells? And are those rear seat belts in the back?


Not sure about the footwells! (mine doesn't have them) - however John & Julian seem to know.

No, it's not rear seatbelts that you see - I think it's webbing straps providing support for the makeshift canvas roof.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 29, 2016 9:06 pm 
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Location: Ontario, Canada
Ahh, I was wondering if that was one of those LWB-SWB differences.

Yeah, drums full of mud becomes all the more awful when they freeze solid! Learned the clean-after-you-play lesson the hard way. Couldn't for the life of me figure out why the engine ran but the car wouldn't budge.

Are there any tricks to drying the ignition system in the field?


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 29, 2016 9:26 pm 
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Location: Lewes, East Sussex - UK
Drying out ignition systems depends on how long you have, how creative you want to be!

Several dry clean strips of cloth to start with - Then which every variation of WD40 / GT80 / DUCK OIL (water dispersant) you can get hold of, followed by:-

Very useful item to carry in your tool kit - a can of compressed air - well some gas compressed as they are usually labelled as flammable. Use it to blow the inside of the distributor clean and dry, Use it to clean the jets out with out having to stick things down the holes, Use it to clean the plugs when they get oiled up if you have the plastic pipe extension.

Usually at this point, all of the ignition system seems to remain damp, probably because it's cold so some method of warming everything up would help a lot. Blow torch probably isn't a good idea unless you can keep the flame a long distance from the engine and just channel the hot air into the engine bay!

So getting creative, how about having a suitable piece of hose pipe you can stick on some other vehicles exhaust and pipe warm / hot exhaust gas into the engine bay to warm things up? :ugeek: :lol:

John

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 01, 2016 12:38 am 
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Love the pics - I wish we could do that here - my 4wd club is only interested in going on 4 week, 10,000km trips across the country - no local daily stuff.

garry

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 28, 2016 4:13 pm 
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Location: Inverness, Scotland
Here's another short report and a few varied photos from our monthly trial; this one took place close to the village of Tomatin just outside Inverness. For those of you that like a dram, Tomatin has a large distillery which produces a tasty single malt.

This is a varied site with a bit of pretty much everything, except rock slab.

Image

Making my way down to the first section.

Image
The competition! (Frank the owner was co-driving with his young nephew Ross)

Image

It was pretty much drowned here - I was in the same position just before him. Oh, the indignity of having to be recovered!

Image

Dealing with the aftermath - drowned ignition, water in the carb and oil bath filter, and blocked jets.

Image


This was quite a steep downhill section - the crawler gear and low weight were real advantages.

Image

It wasn't just the Haflingers that got stuck.

Image

Guess what this driver does for a living? No kidding ...he's a pilot.
Image

I don't think I'll be competing in the trial next month - it's in the hills above Invergordon and is mostly bottomless peat bog; time to catch-up on some maintenance chores.

John

Edit to sort photos


Last edited by jhon on Thu Feb 01, 2018 3:22 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 01, 2016 7:58 am 
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Location: Launceston Tasmania AUS,
G,,day . i may not put this in the best . or polite words .
it scares the shit out of me when i see people doing a recovery using a tow ball as an attatchment point .
they are not designed for huge loads .

there have been a number of deaths and injuries from using a tow ball .
please use correct / rated recovery points .

if you think i am wrong , do some research .
if i offend you . i do not care ,if it saves your life . or serious injury .



cheers
kerry

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 01, 2016 12:58 pm 
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No offense taken Kerry - wise words.

I'll keep any eye on the young members in the club and remind them of the dangers.

Cheers,

John


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 02, 2016 3:04 am 
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Location: Launceston Tasmania AUS,
thank you John .

a lot of people do not realise how much force can be exerted in a recovery .


kerry

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 02, 2016 6:24 am 
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OK, I'll bite. I have to say that I wouldn't have known not to use the tow ball. :oops: (But at least I will now!)

Have to say that I am surprised to learn about this though. Does this also go for "modern" cars where the tow bar is, by law, purpose built / designed to fit the specific chassis, and is bolted to the chassis in an approved manner?

If trying to pull a Haflinger out of a mud hole what else is there to attach a rope to? A half axle?

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 02, 2016 10:10 am 
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Location: Launceston Tasmania AUS,
take the tow ball out of the coupling .
put the largest rated bow shackle into its place .
and attatch to it
may not be perfect , but a bloody big amount better than a tow ball.

it is late , so i am tired .
kerry

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 02, 2016 10:26 am 
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Location: Yorkshire
Hi Kerry and Julian, just putting in my two penneth, Kerry good Idea about taking the towball out and replacing with a shackle, however a lot of towballs ( not tow bars ) are fixed with 2 bolts and not removable, so in this case a purpose fixed recover eye would be the answer, Julian, looking at Kerrys last post it is the towball rather than the towbar that he says don't use for recovery, also most modern cars have a towing eye that is removable and screws into a fitting on the front of the vehicle. however this is only for towing a broken down vehicle on the road and is NOT designed for pulling the vehicle out of mud, bog holes etc Regards Pete


Last edited by woodman on Sat Apr 02, 2016 12:42 pm, edited 3 times in total.

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 02, 2016 10:44 am 
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Never, never, never, never make an offroad recovery with a tow ball - use a rated recovery point.

See these:

http://www.abc.net.au/news/2011-08-21/f ... nt/2848762

http://www.goseeaustralia.com.au/articl ... perations/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gaeFw_8-ylY

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a0q8BX4td_o

And the last - very graphic so be warned
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cALW8-epEvI

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Haflinger 700AP (73)
Range Rover Sport TDV6 (07)
Landrover FC 101 (77)
Landrover Series 1 SWB Station Wagon (57)
Landrover Series 1 SWB (57)
Jaguar E-type Roadster V12 (71)


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 02, 2016 11:05 am 
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Location: Launceston Tasmania AUS,
Gary . you have made the point so much better than i did .

thankyou .

kerry

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 02, 2016 12:35 pm 
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Location: Yorkshire
garrycol, thanks for the posting, If any one has ever used a towball for recovery then please watch garrycols attachments, as he says the last one is very, very graphic. Pete


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 02, 2016 5:25 pm 
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Decided not to watch the last one - too much of a wimp - but have learnt a lesson through this thread. So thank you very much.

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| '62 Early Series I SWB | '72 Series II LWB |
| '56 Citroën Traction Avant |


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