Ethanol Petrol E10.

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Tajman
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Joined: Fri Sep 27, 2019 8:11 pm
Location: Between Portmouth and Southampton. Hampshire .UK.

Ethanol Petrol E10.

Post by Tajman »

From September this year most garages will be selling E10 petrol in UK. That's , as I understand-- 10% ethanol . It used to be 5%. It does not improve your emmisions but as ethanol is made from plant crops, its manufacture is more eco friendly.
The new fuel E10, is not so good with older cars, mainly it seems that it can affect the rubber components in the fuel system.
Recently I checked with my 2 local garages, both had E10 signs on the pump. One said it still had E5 in the tanks and would not be keeping it after it runs out. The other did not know what was in their tanks. Some garages a bit further away say they will stock E5 or and equivalent, -- 98 octane unleaded.
After some research, I found a quote from the Federation of Historic Vehicle Clubs, suggesting older cars should use an additive like Castrol Valve master Plus. Hagerty, the classic car insurer, recommends Millers Ethanol Protection Fuel Additive or Lucas Oil Ethanol Fuel Conditioner. There is also a Star Tron product on the market.
I know that in my fuel system on the Haflinger with Zenith cab, there are quite a few rubber washers and o-rings. Maybe they have been updated in the recent overhaul kit I fitted. But I not sure to trust that.
I wonder what other owners thoughts are with regard to this problem.
Jeff
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heinkeljb
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Location: Lewes, East Sussex - UK

Re: Ethanol Petrol E10.

Post by heinkeljb »

E10 will mean using more fuel to go the same distance as E5 or old style unleaded as it does not contain as much energy. It will eat certain types of rubber / plastic so I agree with you that there are likely to be somethings in the cab which are going to need replacement even if you do use an additive.

I actually think the one that is going to catch people out is the fuel pump diaphragm. Also potentially the most destructive as it will put petrol in to the oil which will then thin and not provide the protection it should and most people won't notice it until it is too late!

I will have to try buying a pump and carb kit some time soon just in case I need it whilst out and about.
I wonder if those people who have fitted an electric fuel pump think they have escaped? Bet the internal of the old one of those are not proof against Ethanol!

John
Haflinger 703AP LWB 1973 - (Once owned by Lady Sutherland & Sons.) Now called "Lurch" !

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AustHaflinger
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Location: Canberra Australia

Re: Ethanol Petrol E10.

Post by AustHaflinger »

Jeff - your guess is as good as anyone else. We have E10 here in Australia but we also have unleaded 91,95 and 98 that has no or little ethanol. Basically no one buys E10 due to excess fuel consumption and lower power despite govt legislation a certain % of ethanol fuel is supplied.

When our E10 came in the govt gave assurances that all cars made after 1987 were safe to use it - not much use to Haflingers though. Land Rover had a policy of no warranty if ethanol fuels were used and resisted but soon capitulated when told it was illegal and told they would not be able to sell cars in Australia - there have been no real issues.

Now you have no choice but to use the fuel when it comes in - as John has said the main issue is rubber in the fuel system - I would have thought parts made for the last 30 years you be compatible but you never know with repro parts. You can only suck it and see.

The other aspect is that E10 will absorb water over time so you may suffer with water in your system - so do not leave fuel for long periods in your fuel tank - there are additives that can help but it is best to run the tank down.

Garry
Haflinger 700AP (73)
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Landrover FC 101 (77)
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heinkeljb
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Location: Lewes, East Sussex - UK

Re: Ethanol Petrol E10.

Post by heinkeljb »

I came across a post somewhere in which they left E10 in a glass jar along with bits of Ali, rubber pipe, clear plastic pipe, o'rings, seals etc. After a couple of months all had suffered. The Ali had white / yellow corrosion on it, the Rubber and clear plastic pipe were brittle with no flex as were the 'rings and seals.
Suggestion was to put a fuel tap in the line between the tank and the fuel pump. When you park up get into a habit of turning off the fuel and allowing the engine to use up all the fuel and a die - that way no E10 left in the fuel pump or Carb. Not sure what sort of damage you do to the fuel pump running it dry constantly - Haf's take quite a long time to pull fuel up from the tank if you empty them. Not so bad if you have an electric fuel pump that is capable of dealing with E10 then you could put the tap after the fuel pump.

John
Haflinger 703AP LWB 1973 - (Once owned by Lady Sutherland & Sons.) Now called "Lurch" !

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