previous post

Post Reply
ogdenenterprise
Posts: 433
Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2013 7:40 am
Location: Cairns , Australia

previous post

Post by ogdenenterprise »

I have had problems with my carb/sparkplugs since day 1 of ownership, you will probably remember my previous posts about the problem.
Im still having problems with the R/H plug getting wet with fuel, when I try to start it only runs on the L/H cylinder (looking from the rear).
The last time I started it I had to replace the plug, Ive just started it again today ( its been about 10 days since) and the same plug is wet and only runs on the L/H cylinder.
I remember reading a old post about setting up the mixture screws on a zenith carb,and depending on which way you turn the screws it makes it leaner or richer, something tells me someone commented that they were turning the scews the wrong way.
Can anyone help and point me to the post in question, so if I alter the right hand mixture screw I am adjusting it the correct way

Dave
User avatar
AustHaflinger
Posts: 2472
Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2013 1:27 am
Location: Canberra Australia

Re: previous post

Post by AustHaflinger »

Dave,

Not sure what post you saw but I just posted this information on this thread http://thehaflinger.com/viewtopic.php?f ... 705#p14705 a couple of days ago - tells you how to do it.

However I doubt this will fix your problem as this mixture setting is for idle. Wet plugs normally imply poor spark so an ignition problem or a very very rich mixture as determined by fixed jets in the carb and if it were these the other cylinder would also have issues.

I would be looking at ignition, coil, leads, spark plugs first - anything related to ignition.

Garry
Haflinger 700AP (73)
Range Rover Sport TDV6 (07)
Landrover FC 101 (77)
Landrover Series 1 SWB Station Wagon (57)
Landrover Series 1 SWB (57)
Jaguar E-type Roadster V12 (71)
Jaguar XJ12C (76)
User avatar
heinkeljb
Posts: 2763
Joined: Sun Dec 30, 2012 12:49 pm
Location: Lewes, East Sussex - UK

Re: previous post

Post by heinkeljb »

Have you tried changing the HT leads that go to the cylinders round? i.e. on the distributor, change the plug lead that is currently going to the righthand cylinder into the Distributor caps left hand socket. and the lefthand one to the right hand socket on the distributor. You shouldn't have to alter the timing, but best to check that after you have done the above just in case.

The Zenith Carb is twin barrel design BUT the manifold block just links both into the same manifold which feeds both cylinders.

I would remove the Carb from the manifold and the mainfold from the cylindrs. Check the manifold for obstructions internally if you can. Check the Carb manifold junction to see if the two butterfly valves are working in sync and open correctly.

Then move on to the ignition.
Might be worth starting at the coil. If you have access to another one, swap it and see if things improve. I know it is a pain to do, but replacing one thing at a time and testing will be the best way of finding out what was actually wrong. Most people will replace the coil and the HT Lead to the distributor at the same time and possibly even the other HT leads, but then you don't know which thing was wrong!

If after changing the coil, things are still wrong. Change the HT lead to the distributor. Test. If you still have issues move on to the next thign which is points. Then condensor, then HT lead to left hand cyclinder, then right hand one. New spark plugs are likely to make it work initially even if you don't do anything else, so only change those if you can't the the engine to run.

Hopefully, by the time you have gone through all of this, you will have found the cause and corrected it.

Good luck.

John
Haflinger 703AP LWB 1973 - (Once owned by Lady Sutherland & Sons.) Now called "Lurch" !

Have you hit the "DONATE" button at the bottom of the page after reading this post? Many thanks if you have!!
jhon
Posts: 201
Joined: Tue Feb 05, 2013 10:25 am
Location: Inverness, Scotland

Re: previous post

Post by jhon »

Hi Dave - mine used to cut on to one cylinder - when I removed the plug it was 'fouled' and wet with fuel. I've found that once that happens, despite thorough cleaning, the plug is never the same again. More noticeable with NGK plugs.

I cured my fouling issue by installing a 'hotter' range of plug and haven't had the problem since.

Good luck.

Cheers, John
ogdenenterprise
Posts: 433
Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2013 7:40 am
Location: Cairns , Australia

Re: previous post

Post by ogdenenterprise »

Hi Jhon & John
I have the military ignition systen with shielded plugs, so Im limited to what I can use.
I have both the original Bosch which are hard to get hold of and champoin plugs.
I replaced the leads, plugs etc when I did the rebuild but the problem still continued. The only thing I didnt replace
was the coil, but my logic says it would cause problems on both plugs if the coil was faulty??
I am considering replacing everything to a standard type ignition system so I can try hotter plugs, plus I would have to change everything
on the ignition system, plugs, leads, coil, distributor etc which I think will be a expensive exercise .

Dave
ogdenenterprise
Posts: 433
Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2013 7:40 am
Location: Cairns , Australia

Re: previous post

Post by ogdenenterprise »

Heres a photo of the Bosch & champion plugs.
Attachments
IMG_4239.JPG
User avatar
heinkeljb
Posts: 2763
Joined: Sun Dec 30, 2012 12:49 pm
Location: Lewes, East Sussex - UK

Re: previous post

Post by heinkeljb »

Have you tried swapping the plug leads over to see if the problem follows the change in leads? Engine should still run perfectly well with the plug leads swapped it nothing else is wrong.

John
Haflinger 703AP LWB 1973 - (Once owned by Lady Sutherland & Sons.) Now called "Lurch" !

Have you hit the "DONATE" button at the bottom of the page after reading this post? Many thanks if you have!!
Post Reply