Body off restoration starts today!

[Julian B]

Now that I have all of the "black bits" back from the paintshop, and most of the new parts that I need the re-build started today. It'll be a long process, and I already know that I'm going to get stuck on many issues and details. Please bear with me, but I hope answers to questions will help others too ...

Question: The square "Bushing for half shaft" (3-01, #28, 50113474) goes on the end of the half shaft and connects to the differentials (#29). On each, there are two faces that are smooth, and two faces that have criss-cross grooves on them. Is it these criss-cross faces that touch the diff, or the smooth ones? I forgot to check when I removed them, but I would presume that the answer is yes - for lubrication.

Many thanks!

[pathfinder700ap]

Hi Julian,

I think the smooth faces are the ones that are in contact with the differential cage, because these get slightly worn whereas the other two faces still have the criss-cross surface from the manufacturing process. This is what I have in mind from the axles that I have disassembled, but can anyone confirm?


Kind regards,
Constantin

[heinkeljb]

Julian,

Are the little squares the same thickness as the cage slots they go into? I would look at eh faces closely as you are likely to see a ridge on the faces that touch the cage if the cage thickness is less than the squares.

I would also plumb for the smooth faces being the ones in contact as the parts and been rubbing against each other for the thousands of miles that your Haflinger has travelled!

John

[Julian B]

Collected the body parts from the bead blaster today, and took them (other than the actual body) to the paint man. The body itself looked in better condition than I had feared, with some rot in the rear footwell floors, and also below the steering box. But most of the rest is fine. With the paint now removed from the body panels I can now see a couple of problems with the side panels etc, where paint had hidden filler etc. Still, nothing that can't be remedied …

The grey in the photos below is a sort-of primer. I will let the painter work on the body panels for a week or so, ands then I will take the body around to him for the welding and painting.

Meanwhile the rolling chassis is all painted and beginning to go back together. All very exciting

[Julian B]

Having metal bead blasting can be a very revealing process - with no secrets left. Here you can see how someone in the past has tried to lever the sideboards off, and damaged them. The problem was then hidden by filler! Hey Ho!

[heinkeljb]

Filler hides a multitude of sins!

It looks really good, very little in the way of repair work to do. I would say if you are going this far with the rebuild / refurbishment, then have the double skin layer where the steering box goes, taken apart and cleaned, repaired and properly painted on the surfaces that will end up touching each other again with weld through primer so it does not rust between the faces again.

John

[Rick K]

Hello Julian

You have a great body to work with, given its such an early model. Have you put much thought into the type of paint that you will be using? I went through the same process myself for my 63 model having to find the correct colour (similar to Reseda Green). In the end we had to colour match, based on a part taken from a non-exposed area under the dash. I chose to go with a 2-pack paint, which I regret in hindsight as its too shiny and unlike the original enamel finish (not to mention the orange-peel effect). On the other hand the 2-pack should last a very long time, hopefully at least another 50-odd years.

with kind regards

Rick

[Julian B]

Hello Julian

You have a great body to work with, given its such an early model. Have you put much thought into the type of paint that you will be using? I went through the same process myself for my 63 model having to find the correct colour (similar to Reseda Green). In the end we had to colour match, based on a part taken from a non-exposed area under the dash. I chose to go with a 2-pack paint, which I regret in hindsight as its too shiny and unlike the original enamel finish (not to mention the orange-peel effect). On the other hand the 2-pack should last a very long time, hopefully at least another 50-odd years.

Hi Rick,

Your Haflinger looks superb - I can only dream that mine will look anything like as nice! Like you I have gone down the colour match process, using the interior side of an old engine bay side cover that was lent to me by a friend, and also some paint under a placard on the dash - both of which had never really seen any light. Slightly disappointed to hear that you regret the 2-pack paint as that is what I have chosen to use to. . The 2-pack on the black parts looks nice (I will agree that it looks shiny), but have yet to see any of the new green on anything. I hope that I won't be disappointed like you, but seeing as I have spent almost GBP 600 on the black & green paint (& stone chip & 2-pack hardener) I am slightly reluctant to change my mind. And the green painting starts today too ...

I see that you used a "stone chip" product between the underside of the body and the green paint - I will be doing the same. Did you also use it _within_ the engine bay & on the underside of the engine bay lid?

Cheers,

Julian

PS If only my wife would come out with statements like …

Hello Julian

You have a great body to work with

[Rick K]

Thanks Julian

I didnt mean to cast any doubts about 2-pack, its just that I put a lot of effort into replicating originality (factory-fresh as a model), and I think the enamel was originally less shiny than what Ive achieved. But thats me being picky. 2-pack will be far more durable, and perhaps thats the most important factor to consider. But thanks, yes, its does look nice. If I had to re-spay a less-rare later model, for practicality, I would use 2-pack again.

Please feel free to pass the great body line on to your wife, if that helps...

Rick

[Julian B]

Meanwhile the rolling chassis is all painted and beginning to go back together. All very exciting

Here's a photo of the progress so far; most of the front axle is done, and I'm now working on the rear axles. (I did not open up / dismantle either diff or the gearbox themselves). I will make up new brake lines throughout. Should have all 4 axles on by early next week, and I'll then start on the control rods & brake pipes ...

[pathfinder700ap]

Hi everyone,

I agree that it is hard to tell how shiny Haflingers were painted (given that it wasn't a matt paint anyway, e.g. for military purposes). On some factory photos, the vehicles don't look very shiny, however I am not sure how well a glossy paint is represented in a black and white picture.

In the Haflinger factory video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rQZerV3AnYo), there are some scenes with a red and a green Haflinger. The red one looks very shiny, while the green one looks less shiny (at least that's my impression...).

It's a pity that there are not more color pictures available, especially from early years of make.


Kind regards,
Constantin

[Rick K]

Thanks Constantin

Ive been ordering lots of parts for my Puch scooter projects, many of which are new-old-stock panel parts, often still in their sealed Puch plastic wrapping. These were painted in enamel, around the time of the Series I Haflinger production (although of course there may be no relation). Whilst they are indeed shiny, they to my eye less so than the 2-pack finish, and there does not seem to be any orange-peel effect with these old enamel finishes. I dosnt really matter I suppose, but its interesting.

with kind regards

Rick

[Julian B]

Question: The square "Bushing for half shaft" (3-01, #28, 50113474) goes on the end of the half shaft and connects to the differentials (#29). On each, there are two faces that are smooth, and two faces that have criss-cross grooves on them. Is it these criss-cross faces that touch the diff, or the smooth ones? I forgot to check when I removed them, but I would presume that the answer is yes - for lubrication

To answer my own question - yes, it is the cross crossed / grooved surfaces that touch the differentials; in fact the other surfaces can't fit in to the gap in the differential, so it is impossible to get them the wrong way around.

Which brings me on to ... how difficult it is to get the (rear) swing axles to mate with the differential. It took a friend and me several hours to line everything up precisely today. All _very_ frustrating. You have to line up the swing axle with the differential exactly, making sure that the 2 bushing for half shafts are exactly aligned, when you can't see them anyway. We wasted several hours today trying to get them installed, and even having succeeding I can't work out how we could have made the task easier!

But the good news is that I have now got almost all of the rolling chassis rebuild done, with the exception of the brake lines and brake components within the four hubs. Hopefully these will be done tomorrow, but as I am fitting new brake pipes - and I have never made any before - it could take longer than planned ...

[heinkeljb]

If you have a pipe bender and the kit for putting the swagged ends on, then other than getting the lengths correct with bends in the correct places, it is quite easy. Just remember, it is easy to cut a bit off the pipe if it is too long or put an extra couple of bends in, then having to start all over again because it is too short.
Are you fitting new brake shoes? If yes, then there read the repair manual carefully and see if you can work out the trick of how to get the silly little spring at the top of the brake shoes through the hole!
I have worked it out and I tried to explain it in one of my posts (I think in reply to a question about brakes). Anyway, very easy to show, but not so easy to explain.

John

[Julian B]

I have got as far as (almost) completing the rolling chassis rebuild now. It has been ~10 weeks so far. Following an almost complete strip down (I didn't open the gearbox, either diff or the inner mechanicals of the backbone tube), and with many many replacement parts, the rolling chassis is now mobile.

Meanwhile the body is undergoing the last few bits of welding repairs (under the steering box & rear footwells are the main problems) & final painting. Virtually all of the other body parts (windscreen, boxes, seats, lids etc) have been painted, and I have even had some very nice new seats made. I have a load of new wires & sleeving to make up a new wiring loom, but I'll wait for the body to come back before I start on that. I rebuilt the engine last year so that should go back in OK, and the canvas was replaced ~2 years ago.

I hope to have the body back by the end of next week (famous last words), but I do feel that I am well on the way to completion.


I must take this opportunity to thank a lot of people - both on this Forum and here at home - for the help that I have received. It goes without saying that without it I would still be looking at a bag of bits on the garage floor!

[pathfinder700ap]

A great result for the chassis, congratulations!
Just for curiosity: Are you going to keep the 180 mm clutch (because I see the distance ring on the gearbox in the upper picture) or are you going to fit the original 160 mm clutch?


Kind regards,
C.

[Julian B]

Constantin,

I was going to re-use the 180mm clutch (complete with spacer ring), but to be honest I hadn't given this any thought. Bearing in mind that the current clutch is both fitted and (virtually) new, would there be any benefit to go for a 160mm clutch? (Other than for "originality?).

I am not sure if Dale has the 160mm clutch, but I suppose I could ask. That said, this has already cost me £££, and I am always happy not to spend in areas that I don't have to.

[heinkeljb]

Julian,

Looking at you bottom picture I notice that you have put the rear handbrake cable sort of in place, but underneath the gear lever rod. I hope you are still "testing" as I am sure it should go above the gear lever rob when the platform is on.

Other than that, It is looking good and as you say, on the home stretch to being back on the road!

John

[Julian B]

John - well spotted! I haven't actually attached the gear shift rod yet - it is just resting in place for now. I won't actually attach it until I mate the body.

[Julian B]

A quick update with progress so far. The body is nearly completed, with everything other than the rear footwells painted. I hope to collect it on Wednesday. Herewith a couple of photos - but note that the colour reproduction / accuracy in the photos is poor.

Looks like I'll have lots to do over the Christmas break