Laying hands on my Haflinger

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Julian B
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Joined: Sun Dec 30, 2012 4:07 pm
Location: W Sussex, UK

Re: Laying hands on my Haflinger

Post by Julian B »

Hi Bob,

My understanding of the locating pin on the Dynastarter is so that the timing mark is in the right place with regards to the mark on the crankshaft pulley - I can't think of any other reason for the pin location.

I have also never seen a Haf without the rubber blocks inside the coil springs. They are shown in the Parts Manual, and can't think why they wouldn't be "standard fit".

Sounds like you have made some good progress today :D
Julian B
W Sussex, UK

| '62 Early Series I SWB | '72 Series II LWB |
| '56 Citroën Traction Avant |
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heinkeljb
Posts: 2753
Joined: Sun Dec 30, 2012 12:49 pm
Location: Lewes, East Sussex - UK

Re: Laying hands on my Haflinger

Post by heinkeljb »

HI Bob,

As Julian has said, the locating pin on the Dyanstart fan shroud is there to make sure the fan shroud is fitted correctly.

When fitted correctly the timing mark of the fan shroud is vertically above the crank shaft. All it is doing at that point is providing a reference mark.
When you set the timing up on the engine you have to turn the crank shaft pulley clockwise until the piston in the left hand cylinder (looking from the rear of the vehicle) is at top dead center. The notch in the crank shaft pulley wheel and the mark on the Dyanstart fan shroud should now be directly in line with one another.

Now you have a reference mark / line to back the crank shaft pulley anti clockwise 5 - 7 mm (The manual is very confusing as it talks about mm on some thing which should be degrees)!

I wonder if they mean backing the left hand piston down the bore 5-7mm? I have mine set using those figures as degrees and it seems to run fine.

All Haf's I have ever seen have the rubber spring assisters - parts book shows them as a part fitted and not as a option like the PTO stuff, so I would say they should be there.

I suppose out in an unlit place the original lights are OK, but I found them worse than my Heinkel which has exactly the same 35/35w headlights, so i changed them for HID's with correct projector lens and now I can drive at night at the same speed as during the day I can see that far ahead!!

John
Haflinger 703AP LWB 1973 - (Once owned by Lady Sutherland & Sons.) Now called "Lurch" !

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AustHaflinger
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Location: Canberra Australia

Re: Laying hands on my Haflinger

Post by AustHaflinger »

heinkeljb wrote:Now you have a reference mark / line to back the crank shaft pulley anti clockwise 5 - 7 mm (The manual is very confusing as it talks about mm on some thing which should be degrees)!

I wonder if they mean backing the left hand piston down the bore 5-7mm? I have mine set using those figures as degrees and it seems to run fine.
Thats something I have always been curious about - is 5-7mm is it a typo or is it correct. How do you measure 5-7mm with the engine running at idle - mark it with a felt pen before hand?

Likewise why not have a TDC mark as it has and another for static timing or even degree marks like normal vehicles. It hasn't been an issue for me until recently when I had 123 electronic ignition and all you needed to do was time to TDC and everything happened.

I now have a normal dizzy so I have to start timing the old fashion way. Mine was set up on a dyno so I don't actually know what it is set at the moment so I might use my new timing light (as recommended on here) to read the actual timing off its display (in degrees) and record that in my book.
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Tennmogger
Posts: 56
Joined: Sun Apr 28, 2013 2:02 am

Re: Laying hands on my Haflinger

Post by Tennmogger »

Thanks for the clarification that Dynastarter rotation only sets the index mark to the right place. Of course the Dynastarter fits better at the right place too!

Good question on the 5-7mm distance. I think it distance around the circumference of the pulley. That's the same as marking degrees, and could be converted to degrees quite easily as ratio of circumference of the wheel compared to 360 degrees. My engine runs great now but when the Pertronix is installed I'll be setting timing all over again.

Attached are pictures of modifications done in my Haflinger's early life (pre-gray paint). Either a roll cage or an overhead platform was used. Those holes will be repaired but I'm still looking for a way to pull out the smashed side rails.

There is indication the Hafi was tied down many times with a cable across the platform behind the seats, as indicated by cable marks on the edges of the sides. Reminds me of the Jeep I saw flying down the interstate on a trailer, tied down with one strap across the tops of the doors!

Then there's the ugly hole cut into the engine cover, maybe for a snorkle? That will get plugged eventually.

My point of posting this is in the hopes someone will say "I know that Haflinger", since I know nothing of it's early life.

thanks,

Bob
Attachments
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1952 Willys M-38, Unimogs from 1957, 1965, 1970, 1975, 1978, 1988, and a 1968 Haflinger NA bugeye!
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Julian B
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Location: W Sussex, UK

Re: Laying hands on my Haflinger

Post by Julian B »

garrycol wrote:Thats something I have always been curious about - is 5-7mm is it a typo or is it correct. How do you measure 5-7mm with the engine running at idle - mark it with a felt pen before hand?
Does anyone have a german language manual that could be checked? Maybe a typo crept in with the translation to english?
Julian B
W Sussex, UK

| '62 Early Series I SWB | '72 Series II LWB |
| '56 Citroën Traction Avant |
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heinkeljb
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Joined: Sun Dec 30, 2012 12:49 pm
Location: Lewes, East Sussex - UK

Re: Laying hands on my Haflinger

Post by heinkeljb »

Bob,

I have started a new thread about the ignition timing issue , so it doesn't get lost in here.

All your guesses are the same as mine having looked at the photos.

I only have three suggestions for getting rid of the "dinks" in the side rails.

1: Smooth off the sharp edges and either fill with new fangled filler or go old school and lead load them.
2: If you can get a flat blade at the underside of them, then heat them cherry Red with Oxy-Acetylene and "knock" them up from underneath.
3: If you can't get at the underneath, then either drill a small (ish) hole in the deepest part of the dent, put a self tapping screw in it. Heat to cherry Red and then pull on the screw to lift the metal. You could do the same thing by welding a bolt on instead of drilling a hole.

I would get some captive nuts and put them in to the holes and then bolt "hook" plates there to give you more places to tie stuff down .

The hole looks too big for a snorkel but maybe an aftermarket filter?
Haflinger 703AP LWB 1973 - (Once owned by Lady Sutherland & Sons.) Now called "Lurch" !

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