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PostPosted: Sun Nov 06, 2016 4:32 pm 
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Location: Lewes, East Sussex - UK
Following a mishap where I basically ripped part of Lurch's exhaust pipes and silencer off whilst doing a punch hunt the other weekend. I looked into replacing the pipes and silencer with original style parts. Unfortunately, as a lot of the other parts of the exhaust system would also have needed changing it was going to cost more than I can afford right at the moment. So I looked at other methods of repair / replacement.
In the end I opted for buying some pre-bent bits of tubing and some flexible heating / exhaust pipe. I already had a small "cherry bomb" silencer I had purchased last time I broke the exhaust at a Haflinger offroad event a couple of years ago.

Started off by measuring how far down the pipes come from the heat exchanger mainfold (I only had the good nearside pipe to measure from), then I cut off the manifold mounting plate. Held another section of pre-bent pipe in correct position whilst my friend Stephen made some quick tack welds to hold the bits together.
Same happened for the offside bit of pipe. Now I had two bits of tubing coming up next the gearbox as I thought if I was going to the trouble of putting this all together, I might as well get the silencer really up and out of the way.
There are atleast a couple of other Haflingers out there with similar setups - why the original designers put the exhaust system below the sump guard on an offroad vehicle we will never know!

Another off the shelf exhaust pipe reducer made a bit oval allowed me to do some measuring and then tack weld it two join the two pipes into one.
Another off the shelf exhaust pipe joiner allowed me to put a length of flexible hose in the other end and bend it so I could fit the "cherry bomb" to the side of the footwell box.

Once it was all tack welded in place, took it off and TIG welded and brazed the bits together.

Pictures below show it all fitted.

Attachment:
File comment: Exhaust pipes under the engine
New exhaust system 1.jpg
New exhaust system 1.jpg [ 169 KiB | Viewed 879 times ]


Attachment:
File comment: Joining two pipe togther
New exhaust system 2.jpg
New exhaust system 2.jpg [ 166.08 KiB | Viewed 879 times ]


Attachment:
File comment: Flexible hose and exit
New exhaust system 3.jpg
New exhaust system 3.jpg [ 179.15 KiB | Viewed 879 times ]


It's a bit noisier than I had intended, so I might have to stick something down it's throat!

Atleast the only bits of exhaust system that are still vulnerable are the two bits which come down from the heat exchangers.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 07, 2016 6:45 pm 
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Location: Inverness, Scotland
Hi John - that looks like a tidy job; was it mild-steel that you used? If it was you might want to get some paint or coating on them to prevent them rusting out.

I don't have heat exchangers so my system is quite different - fortunately it was fitted with a vertical stainless silencer when I bought the vehicle so has given no trouble.

Re the higher level of noise - because you have the cherrybomb bolted directly to the bed box it may serve to amplify the sound (like a drum) - you could try isolating it a bit to see if that helps.

Have you tried fitting the sump-guard back on to see if it clears the link pipe? Clearance can be tight there, however the guard should prevent further damage.

Anyway - well done! (always nice to see a bit of innovation).


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 07, 2016 7:05 pm 
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Those pictures were taken having just bolted it all in place to make sure it fits. I put the sump guard back on as well, just after and yes, it all clears there as well. Pictures wouldn't show very much with the sump guard in the way!

It will all have to come off again in order to put some paint on it - don't have any high temperature paint at the moment.

I'll also try your suggestion of some thing to insulate the cherry bomb from the footwell box, not that the noise seems to be from the chassis! Still it can't do any harm and as said, it all has to come off to be painted - unless I just leave it there to go rusty!

The guard didn't manage to save the previous system from damage as there was a modern vehicles back box on the end and it had an edge below the guard.... Now it's just a couple of short lengths of pipe that might get caught.

Shame there is not more ground clearance - but then it would have bigger wheels and would need more power - where does that stop ? Tara 8x8?

John

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 08, 2016 3:49 am 
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Your Cherry Bomb muffler is our Hot Dog Muffler :lol:

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 08, 2016 4:10 pm 
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Nice and neat solution.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 10, 2016 8:37 pm 
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Looks fine to me, good job.

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 01, 2017 10:42 am 
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Biggest problem with my home made exhaust solution? I guessed at the pipe diameter! Bought bits of 1" tubing when I should have bought 1.25"!

So I might remake it later in the year with the bigger diameter pipe and see if it works any better - it still feels like it is lacking power, but the original system has a very tiny outlet from the pancake silencer, so I am not sure why this one would not work at least as well.

Lurch went for an MOT today and passed (mainly because the MOT tester had never seen one before and didn't know what to check!!). One advisory, slight exhaust leak! - Only because he could see a soot trail! Hole must be all of 2 square mm at most....

John

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 01, 2017 11:49 am 
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If you used piping the same size as the original then it should be Ok - but like you I noticed the tailpipe diameter is a lot smaller than the exhaust from the engine so maybe the Haffie engines need the smaller tail pipe to provide the correct back pressure. I thought that the big oval units you have are both muffler and heat exchanger for the cabin heating, if this is correct why do you need the Cheery Bomb? or is the big oval unit just a heat exchanger?

As I have mentioned my engine is 762cc but I still have the standard cylindrical Haflinger muffler. The tail pipe end is much smaller (1" outside diameter - 7/8" inside diameter) than the inlet side so about the same size as yours - I think this is a bit too small and will also look at putting in a larger system - and putting in some sort of heat system as well.

Before you go enlarging you plumbing I think you need to check with somebody in the know if even larger piping will enhance or be detrimental to engine performance - however for most car engines making the exhaust a bit bigger so it exhausts easier does bring performance improvements.

Garry

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Landrover FC 101 (77)
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 01, 2017 3:06 pm 
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The heating system on a Haflinger which uses factory heat exchangers is just that- heat exchangers. Exhaust gas runs through cast iron sections with fins and has an oval sheet metal cover with an in from the air blown over the cylinders and an out which goes via an insulated pipe to the cabin. I don't think a Haflinger engine is as critical on back pressure as a two stroke engine is but it still might need a restriction at its outlet rather than in the length of the system. So as I say, I might remake it with larger diameter pipe up as far as the silencer and then put a restriction there if it still feels sluggish with the current cherry bomb silencer.

Something for later in the year (maybe)!!!

John

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