TheHaflinger.com

Were there any factory modifications to any of the systems for cold weather conditions? As in below freezing? Air intake redirects? Carb heat mods? Oil cooler mods?

The original Haflinger had a flap on the rear hatch which could be put up or down as required, down to increase the cold air intake to the engine bay when it is hot and up to reduce the cold air intake and make the engine take slightly warmer air from with in the engine bay to blow over the cylinders. Later models had a modified oil cooler cover which had a flap out the rear engine hatch which could be used to close off the air escaping after passing through the oil cooler to help heat up the left hand cylinder. Or it could be opened in hot weather to all some of the heat from the oil cooler to escape to the outside world.
Some Haf’s had a heat exchanger heating system for the cab which had a hole in the tin work on the front side of the engine tin work to direct air into the heat exchanger boxes and the via a “y” shaped piece with a flap valve which could be used to control the air flow into the cab for heating and demising the windscreen. In countries where it gets very cold, there was a factory option of an Espacher heater which burned petrol to provide interior heating.
No other engine options provided for cold weather other than to use a 10SAE weight oil in the engine to aid starting in cold weather.

John

Thanks John.

Next thread question will be on snow plows, mounts, and who's found what works best!

I am considering getting one of these for when I use my vehicle in winter

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Professiona ... Sw8DRdeLOz

I've fitted 2 similar ones now. They are great but one of the the biggest challenge when fitting is where to site the diesel tank unless you can find a petrol version, also they can be a pretty significant drain on the battery if the engine isn't running.

There's a product put out by a company called Mr. Heater in the USA. It's designed as a golf cart heater, fueled by a propane canister, and it's relatively safe. I'll probably experiment with one of them.



https://www.mrheater.com/4-000-btu-golf ... eater.html

Not inexpensive...but a bit of heat is such a nice thing to have...

I would also think that anyone with a local muffler shop, or that has access to those parts, should be able to fabricate the duct system that pulls heat off of the engine shroud. Lots of fab, too much for me at the present. I'll opt for the separate heater, which also has other benefits.

I assume you will have your soft top on in the middle of a cold Alaskan winter - if so, I would be worried about carbon monoxide poisoning with any propane style heater that is not flued in the closed Haflinger cabin.

Garry

heinkeljb wrote:The original Haflinger had a flap on the rear hatch which could be put up or down as required, down to increase the cold air intake to the engine bay when it is hot and up to reduce the cold air intake and make the engine take slightly warmer air from with in the engine bay to blow over the cylinders. Later models had a modified oil cooler cover which had a flap out the rear engine hatch which could be used to close off the air escaping after passing through the oil cooler to help heat up the left hand cylinder. Or it could be opened in hot weather to all some of the heat from the oil cooler to escape to the outside world.

So, I was told the later Haffies that had the air inlet through the metalwork on the rear engine cover indicated they were equipped with a more powerful engine. Not sure how true that is, but I put one of those in my earlier haffie as you may recall. Ive not cut the hole in the mesh to install the external inlet, but I plan to soon. I am getting terrible heat soak at times and thats really annoying.

But, about this flap on the oil cooler cover. Could you explain how this operates? I know I have it, but I havent moved it or anything, so maybe there is something to that?

As an aside, any idea where to get the mesh stuff? Dale doesnt have it.

When it is cold you manually close the flaps (on on the engine bay door and the one in the hot air outlet from the oil cooler that comes out the engine bay door) and you open them when it is hot.

Garry

The problem is that there is no flap on the door. Even on the donor haffie.

The one at the oil cooler need the cover removed, right?

Page 31/32 of the Handbook covers winter driving and the two flaps.

Here is the door flap on my Haf

The flap - top right in the stored (allows air in) position - held in place with the body coloured tab .

The flap in the closed position. It blocks off one side of the engine door. The oil cooler flap is also accessed at the engine door, the cover does not need to come off. The flap is in the air outlet in the that exists through the engine door.

The handbook says - the warm air disposal system of the oil cooler is fitted with an adjustable red flap. The locating screws need to be loosened which allows the flap to be turned cross wise and blocks warm air from the oil cooler directly leaving the engine.

Being built in Australia, my engine does not have the flap but this is where it goes in the end of this pipe. However here is a file photo of a haflinger with the red flap fitted. It is accessed by opening the rear engine door and the top door - nothing needs to come off the engine or be blocked inside. You will need to zoom in a bit to see the red flap there. It is in the warm temp position and when it is cold you turn it sideways, blocking the pipe. Garry

There is a possibility that your Haf does not have the oil cooler duct as there are three different covers which go over the Dunastart and oil cooler.
Early ones had a smaller oil cooler and so the cover was smaller as well where the oil cooler was and without the spur to divert some of the air directly to the out side world rather than over the cylinder barrel.
Then there is a cover which is bigger to accommodate the bigger MK II oil cooler, but still with out the spur.
Then there is a cover which has the spur and allows you to divert some of the air to the outside world like Gary's pictures above. Closing the red flat obviously restricts the air being able to escape and forces it to go over the left hand cylinder barrel.

John

AustHaflinger wrote:I assume you will have your soft top on in the middle of a cold Alaskan winter - if so, I would be worried about carbon monoxide poisoning with any propane style heater that is not flued in the closed Haflinger cabin.

Garry

Hi Garry - yes, definitely the soft top will be on. CO is always a concern, but the design of these heaters includes a CO monitor and switch - if the levels become problematic, the heater turns off automatically. The company makes quite a few different models, up to and including large area systems. One still needs to account for fresh air intake of course, but folks here use the larger models for everything from shop heat, ice fishing huts, trailer heat, etc.

The system seems to work very well but I still don't trust it one hundred percent.

Then again, the Haffy "cab" isn't exactly well sealed to begin with

Rabbit 16v wrote:

heinkeljb wrote:The original Haflinger had a flap on the rear hatch which could be put up or down as required, down to increase the cold air intake to the engine bay when it is hot and up to reduce the cold air intake and make the engine take slightly warmer air from with in the engine bay to blow over the cylinders. Later models had a modified oil cooler cover which had a flap out the rear engine hatch which could be used to close off the air escaping after passing through the oil cooler to help heat up the left hand cylinder. Or it could be opened in hot weather to all some of the heat from the oil cooler to escape to the outside world.

So, I was told the later Haffies that had the air inlet through the metalwork on the rear engine cover indicated they were equipped with a more powerful engine. Not sure how true that is, but I put one of those in my earlier haffie as you may recall. Ive not cut the hole in the mesh to install the external inlet, but I plan to soon. I am getting terrible heat soak at times and thats really annoying.

But, about this flap on the oil cooler cover. Could you explain how this operates? I know I have it, but I havent moved it or anything, so maybe there is something to that?

As an aside, any idea where to get the mesh stuff? Dale doesnt have it.

What mesh? The stuff that covers the rear engine hatch openings?

Hey Gang,
Here is some technical advice on the mesh on the rear engine cover.
Travel here to Australia, purchase an ironing board, you know those contraptions that you unfold and it stands up to form a platform to rest your clothes on while you iron them, pull the thing apart and you will find in the guts of the thing there is a really nice sheet of 'MESH". Remove the mesh and throw the entire ironing board in the bin because you do not want to get into the habit of ironing your clothes.
Cut this sheet of mesh to the size you want for your Haffy and the job is done.It is the correct shape, size and cross section as the original. The reason that Dale hasn't got any is probably because the entire world wide stock of this mesh is being used in ironing boards.
With a bit of pre planning before you come to Australia, you could find out where some of us Haffy owners live and drop in for a cuppa or a beer. I will go and put the kettle on .
Regards Rick.

Czechsix wrote:
What mesh? The stuff that covers the rear engine hatch openings?

You can see the mesh on the the door in the pics I posted.

Garry

mechanical horse wrote:Travel here to Australia, purchase an ironing board,

Security door mesh works very well - as well - cheap to buy (cheaper than an ironing board) at screen sellers and hardware stores.

Garry

McNichols will probably have it, problem is you have to buy a sheet of it. I've bought a few things from them, pretty good company to know of.

www.mcnichols.com

AustHaflinger wrote:

PIF_217_75_L.jpg

Garry

So, I looked at this flap the other day and I swear its welded stationary. I did notice it was painted red which I didnt see before. I will take a closer look.

You have to loosen the bolts that hold it the fore and aft position (open) and twist it from the top to the sideways position (closed) and retighten the bolts.

If it has been welded then some previous owner has done that.

Garry