Hemi the Haff.

[gren_t]

Some updates.. the wiring loom is done and the dashboard is in though not painted, I'm going to paint this version black and I may paint the final version with the placards body colour when I get the platform painted.

The seats I I got it were shot with only one squab...

I've had the seats and other bits powder coated and had a mate make new seat squabs for me.
Many thanks to James of Haflingerparts who very generously gave me a seat foam I was missing F.O.C.

I've replaced the HT leads - the originals were spit and the connectors had pieces missing and it now runs nice, lots of little jobs to keep me busy over the winter but at least I can make a nuisance of myself on the local roads. - dry weather permitting.

I'm looking into paint now...

[heinkeljb]

Here is my 1st attempt at a dashboard from 3mm Stainless Steel.
I'll run with this until I'm ready to paint and I'll replace this dashboard with a dash containing the Info placards.

I just noticed that the photo for you new dash has the two fuses boxes on the left of the steering wheel with all the other items on the right. Lurch has everything 180 degrees compared to yours. In other words it looks like you have put the fuse boxes and the speedo in from the wrong side of the metal dashboard.

Not that it matters, this is "your" Haflinger and I as I have said many time, I have not seen two Haflingers the same unless they where restored by the same person!

John

[gren_t]

Hi, I've seen a number of dashboards and there are few that are the same, so I've decided to run with this as I have no experience so I'm feeling about with what is comfortable, it may change as it's easy to get my son to cut a new one on the laser
I need to drive it a while and decide.. but the space on the right of the wheel will be for the info placard, I'll put the holes for these and the switch labels on V2.

I have the fuse boxes sitting behind the dash as I like the fuseboxes fixed behind as it gives a bit space for the blade connectors from the edge of the holes it also hides the mounting lugs so gives a neater finish.

[heinkeljb]

I have no issue with any of the work you have carried out, so don't think I am telling what you should or shouldn't have on your Haflinger. Just making an observation that's all.

Picture of Lurch's dashboard.

Lurch's dashboard

The Fuse boxes actually look very much like the originals from the outside of the covers, so the fact they are hiding blade fuses instead of ceramic rod ones doesn't matter. There were some Haf's with breakers that you could reset for fuses. As long as they make you Haf electrically safe that's what matters.

Driving is always more fun when everything works. You'll get used to the dash as it is now and I bet you won't change it!

John

[gren_t]

Oh I like the idea of blade fuses, I did have a look about for a "period" looking blade fuse holder as I have some miniature resettable breakers that fit in the same space as a blade fuse but come up short in the time I had.

Trouble is I'm a fiddler, and that dash is already the 2nd. 1st one was 3mm SS - too heavy and the Charge light was out slightly in relation to the Oil but enough so I noticed and it twisted my melon so had to go.
The slotted screws on Lurch would drive me mad, I'd have to line them up...

I'm always up for a new or better solution to things, feel free to comment

regards all

[AustHaflinger]

I have been having light issues and traced the problem to the old fuses in the dash fuse box loosing connectivity. These fuses are the old style that is basically a piece of plastic with a piece of metal that forms the ends and the fuse in the middle - they just push in and the loose contact and have a bit of corrosion - all cleaned up but problem still continued - the fuse holder just did not seem the grip the fuse enough to maintain contact.
So I ran a bead of solder around the fuses and that seems to work - all a bit of mucking around.

If it we me I would do as you have done - used modern fuses and a fuse holder and ideally disguised under the old outer case.

Garry

[gren_t]

Hi chaps, Ive been out for the 1st drive only a mile or so but great fun.!! Even with the backfires.!
I've since been fiddling with the ignition as it would crank awhile before starting before settling with a lumpy idle and smoky exhaust.
So points and timing set and it now starts on 1st crank though it still need the carb rebuilding as it idles high and throttle body is damp through leaking gaskets and seals.

However I’ve attached a pic of the engine and the cold air inlet seems wrong.
I’d appreciate all comments on what looks wrong or could be done better.
Cheers.

[heinkeljb]

Hi Glen,
I don't see a lot wrong with the layout of your engine. If by the "cold air inlet" you mean the item in the top left corner of the photo you posted that's attached to the top of the carb?

The is the later type air intake with a paper filter AND the Cyclon Oil filtration system. The intake it attached to the top of the carb by the two bolts which I see you have, so that's good. Then there is a bolt which goes into a captive nut on the Carb pre heat pipe (under the paper filter container).
Then there is a rubber expanding pipe section to join the exit of paper filter canister to the exit of the oil bath cyclon filter. That seems to be there as well, so that's good as well. Then there were two types of pipe to allow air into the oil bath, I see you have the short straight tube, so again no issue there.
Other than not knowing whether you have a paper filter in the filter box, I would say you cold air section of the fuel system is correct.

Is that a fuel cut off valve in the top right hand corner of the photo? Or a fuel pump?
It looks like you have fuel going to a glass bowl filter and then down to where the mechanical fuel pump is and then back up to the carb.

If that is a fuel pump, then I would suggest you bypass the mechanical fuel pump and if you do that, then you really should remove it from the engine including the arm that runs on the cam shaft and blank the hole off.
Running fuel into the fuel pump at pressure from an external pump increases the risk of the diaphragm splitting and leaking fuel into the oil in the crank case. Just bypassing the mechanical fuel pump means the diaphragm will dry out and split and that provides access for dust and other rubbish into to the crank case. Just putting bungs on the inlet and outlet of the pump leads to a closed pressurised system that is likely to "pop" in some direction or other.
If it isn't a fuel pump but a fuel cut of valve, then don't worry about the above paragraph!

All I am saying is that these are things that have happened to others who have gone those routes and may or may not happen to you if you chose one of those ways.

There should also be in the bottom left hand corner of your photo another metal "tube" with a rubber connection to the air off take on the top cooling cover so that some air which has been blown over the oil cooler can exit rather than be directed down over the cylinder. The metal "Tube" is round at one end, but oval where it exits the bodywork via a hole in the rear engine hatch and in the oval part is a flap valve which can be used to regulate how much air is allowed to escape via this route. I.e. in winter, it would be closed to increase the air temperature going over the left hand cylinder. In summer it would be open to reduce the air temperature going over the left hand cylinder. In practice I am not sure how much good that "air bypass" actually is, if it is open then not so much air gets to the left hand cylinder so it will run hotter in any case. Still, a lot of engine have it and they are still going, so maybe it does work? Or we just don't hear about the engines that seize that cylinder?

I am in two minds about it myself. I had it on the engine that came installed in Lurch when I got the Haf, but then the engine broke the crankshaft in half. The replacement engine is a bigger bore engine and we have changed the top cowl for the version without the elbow on it to get more air over the cylinders. Also blanked off the air trumpets that provide hot / pumped air to the heat exchangers on the exhausts and hence on to the cabin to provide hot air heating - So now I freeze in Winter!!

Sorry, bit of a ramble on what was supposed to be some comments on your photo and questions.

John
Really must get the cheap Chinese diesel hot air heater installed!

[AustHaflinger]

I dont see any thing unusual in that pic - as mentioned not sure what the item is on the fuel line before the fuel filter it but everything seems correct - noting that the layout did change over the years.

[gren_t]

OK chaps Hemi is out of the storage locker and getting some small jobs done
During my longest drive to date (10miles) Oh yeah... I noticed it had become incontinent and was dripping oil from the bellhousing drain hole - I assume its a drain hole however it is threaded - I cant see the need for a wading plug as the spark plugs would be under water in another 8" anyway so I assume there is an oil seal on the gearbox output shaft .. can someone confirm.

pulling the engine out don't look like a big job so I may get around to this sooner rather than later.

So rather than get on and fix the leak i decided to have a look at the rather sloppy gearchange, I removed and stripped the gearstick and after a thorough degrease It was reassembled and the shaft and gear knob smartened up I'll paint the gear shaft satin black but the yellow high build primer has filled all the pits in the old paint.

The gearknob has had the lettering touched up and just needs a final sanding to knock off the gloss.
I found the partial cause of the sloppy change - the bush between the yolk and the bottom of the gearstick is missing as is the tension spring.

Where does the spring attach to ? I can see a small bracket on the parts list but cant see where the other end would anchor to.??

As always comments welcome

[heinkeljb]

The threaded hole in the bell housing is indead a"wading plug" hole. Just because the spark plugs are under water does not mean they will stop working, particularliy if you have the military version with the sheilded plugs. As long as the distributor is properly sealed against water ingress, the HT cable do not have any damage and the joints on them are seald, the Haf should be cabable of fording water up to the air intake level.
Admitedly, I wouldn't want to go that deep myself with a Haf as you would probably end up with water in other places which would do no good! Oilin engine / geabox, Brake drums etc.
I haven't had to pull the gear lever out on Lurch, so can't help there. I'll look through the parts book and see if I can match up where the spring goes.

John

[gren_t]

Hi All, Just a small update to Hemi, I've been fretting over the sloppy gear change made worse by the work I've done on the gear lever but at least that looks clean, the lever casting along the rim is chipped in the position of reverse - I may replace that in the distant future.

However it seems I have ALOT of play in the linkages in the turret - Many thanks to Jim @ Goatworks that pointed out the probable culprits on the sloppy gear change thread.
Something I've noticed is that when I engage reverse the front difflock lever moves, so it appears the gearlever link rod is interfering with the front diff lock lever ..Hmm.!
I'll pop the lid on the turret over the weekend and put the inspection camera in there for a look, as it looks like the platform needs to come off for me to replace any parts.

Anyway this is what I started with.

Cheers..

[AustHaflinger]

I must admit I have not had your issue - my lever is what I consider normal though on some occasions I do have trouble getting into some lower gears - but I put that down to me moving the gear lever too quickly for the long linkage to cope and it baulks. I find double shuffling helps sometimes.

I would say you do have an issue if the diff lock lever moves when going into reverse as I do not have that issue at all.

Persevere and I am sure all will become clear and resolve itself.

Garry

PS - to admin - no SpamHaus message this time

[gren_t]

I've decided to give up on the reverse issue for the moment and pick on the erratic idle instead as I am able to get at all the parts involved and there's very little that can beat knowing a problem and fixing it without it dragging on or costing a packet..! - I suspect fixing the Carb will be satisfying and the lack of reverse gear may have to wait, I may be able to tilt the platform enough to get into the tower but that is for another months paypacket.

So .. I've noticed the carb has a number of leaks it always fires up on the 1st stroke since i sorted the ignition however the idle is erratic, the devil makes work for idle hands or so they say so this weekend pulled the carb off for inspection :

The most obvious issue are the leaks from the butterfly shaft, both end seals were spit and are not in the carb rebuild kit, nor can i see them on the 1969 parts catalogue - I may have to use some suitably sized "O" rings on the rebuild
the other problem area is the choke mechanism, the gasket had failed, at least this is in the kit.

The main body and jets are quite heavily coated and will need a good clean, the venturies are particularly bad.

A mate offered me his ultrasonic cleaning bath to use as it was "just knocking about the garage" and was gratefully accepted .. bingo cleaning the carb just got a whole lot quicker.. until on powering it up it tripped my house rcd ..hmm
closer inspection revealed a blown cap on the mains filter PCB. ( I bet he knew it was buggered and wanted someone to fix it crafty sod.. )

So new Capacitors ordered and hopefully the ultrasonic tank will be in action and the carb will be good to go, it will give me time to find the seals for the shaft anyway...

[heinkeljb]

Carb rebuild "should" just be a question of replacing parts - but - the jets can get worn just due to the fuel runing through them, so one issue to be aware of. Second is that someone in the past might have tightened them down too hard and changed the shape of the taper that idle needle close up on.
I am not sure anyone actually know what size and shape they should be so there proably isn't a specific reamer to use to correct that issue. New idle jets might work.

Change all the jets if you can, no point in taking it all apart, cleaning it and then in a few days / weeks having to fit new jets because you rebuild didn't actually solve your erratic idle. As you have already said, most likely down to air leak on the various shafts.

Bring the Haf to the Cotwolds Treffen and you will have more "Haflinger experts" available than you can shake a hat at!

John

[gren_t]

Thanks - good point on the jets I'll give them a good look over, I'll be at the Treffen but I don't have a trailer to bring Hemi - though a I could bring it in a couple of crates in the back of the landrover

[Julian B]

Looking forward to seeing you both at the Treffen!

[AustHaflinger]

Thanks - good point on the jets I'll give them a good look over, I'll be at the Treffen but I don't have a trailer to bring Hemi - though a I could bring it in a couple of crates in the back of the landrover

South Wales to the Cotswolds so drive it

[gren_t]

Sometimes I wonder what I was thinking...
while waiting for the parts to turn up to fix the ultrasonic bath so I can clean up the carb I thought I'd clean up and free up the linkages attached to the carb.
It took me over an hour to get the front control rod linkages off as the split pins had rusted into the holes and then been painted over, so out with the dremmel and the universal persuader they eventually succumbed with quite a bit of very foul language for which being a steel worker I am fluent.
However the worst of the language came when I tried to remove the ball joint at the carb end of the control rod, the rod was heavily pitted, bent in multiple planes and rusted, yep I snapped the rod right on the threads.
Its only a bit of bent 6mm rod so depending on the cost of a new one I'll make one in stainless steel to replace it.

I got the linkages on the bench and all were pretty bad with the hole for the return spring in the bracket almost pulled through and all the split pin holes needing to be drilled out, it was when I was welding up the hole I thought I would weld up the clevis pin that was also heavily worn and then grind it back round, as I was positioning the pin it sprung out of the jaws of the earth clamp which then snapped shut on the tip of my finger

I then proceeded to strip the short link rod which succumbed to my efforts although I don't know if the rod should be bent - I'll check before attempting to straighten it out, one of the bends is in the threaded portion of the rod so I don't think that is right.

Then I decided to unseize the carb pump rod, which then promptly snapped... FML..!

A rainy Sundays final tally:
Throttle control rod - bust
Carb pump adjuster - bust
8mm clivis pin - lost in the garage probably right next to a lost sock and the screwdriver I lost in the sand in Mauritania.
And a blood blister on the tip of my finger

[heinkeljb]

Sounds like you had a good day then! If it work being done on Lurch I am sure the tally would have been higher as no garage / cover to hide out of the weather.... So the Tin Worm can multiply when you are not looking!

Did anybody tell you that you would be spending money on it every month?

John