Hemi the Haff.

[gren_t]

Hi All,
I've been a lurker on here since 2015, I originally joined in the hope of locating a Haflinger to keep me busy after finishing the rebuild of my Landover 90, after lots of near misses on EBay etc. with vehicles from Cornwall to Scotland I finally managed to secure one 12 miles from me, from a fellow Landover Owner I had know years before.

Hemi as it's now been christened had benefitted from a refresh some 12years ago and then parked up in a barn, it starts on the button and drives however It need lots of little job attending to including a rewire and new paint.

The PO included some spares and a kind offer to visit him if I get stuck as he has another Haff he uses regularly.

So here it starts, I'll put up photos as the build progresses and I'll no doubt be in need of the information held on these pages.
Gren.

[heinkeljb]

Hi Gren,

Welcome to forum, lurking is good, posting is even better!

Generally looks okay. Could probably just be used as is. Looks like it has got wiring in place, what makes you think you need to re-wire it? Engine bay appears to be missing the duct from the cold air cowl / oil cooler bypass to the outside world. Would be a good idea to get one of those before really using it as otherwise the hot air that comes out will just blow around inside the engine bay either coating everything in dust at best and at worst putting that dust into the engine air intake system Initially clogging up the cyclone oil filter and then the paper filter. Will also be recycling hot air into the fan which is supposed to blow cold air over the cylinders.

Have you got copies of the workshop manual and exploded parts book? Would be a very good idea to get them if you haven't. There are lots of things on a Haflinger which are not that straightforward!

John

[gren_t]

Thanks for the reply - I'll get on the cowl.
The PO gave me a copy of a workshop manual and I've managed to pick up an owners manual in a book shop in Hay on Wye a few years ago, I'll have a google for the parts book.

The wiring to the dash is a mess and in need of replacing - the PO did enough to get it functional, the cable is old and getting brittle so I'll do a rewire using modern cable.
I will be replacing the dash as the PO gave me 2 others as spares but will have to find out which one is the correct one for the MK2

Gren

[AustHaflinger]

Looks like a great project - not lot to do

I agree with John - you need the pipe that extracts the hot air from the oil cooler to keep fresh air being sucked in.

If you have not already done so have a look at the Documentation Section of the forum - lots of docs (parts manual/handbook etc) and good information generally.

So we are going to see your vehicle MOTd and on the road next week?

Garry

[jhon]

Gosh, that is a tight squeeze in that garage, just as well you didn't fancy something bigger.

I'll be following your build with interest! Have you had a chance to check it out mechanically - gearbox/diff-locks working OK, etc?

Hopefully you won't find too many issues; however if you do, it's likely that someone on here will be able to help.

Best of luck with it!

[gren_t]

Hi Chaps,
It runs and drives difflocks work brakes are good & starts on the button though runs a little rich - easy to detect in such a tight space.!
As said the original owner had gone through it before parking it up - there are a bits of welding I'd have flushed in rather than a surface patch but they are well done.

I am thinking of getting the platform acid dipped in the winter and starting from a known position, but i'll toot around in it for a while and fix what needs doing.
This morning I could smell gear oil in the garage so something is leaking..!
yes it is a little....snug but I rebuilt this from scratch in there so it can be done..

[heinkeljb]

If you haven't looked at the pictures in Constantin's web site, I would suggest you look through those to see which dash is correct for your Haflinger. Mine is a 1973, UK market although assembled in Belgium and has the double fuse box layout. I don't know when they went from the single fuse box to the double. Then of course you will have trouble finding the correct wiring diagram to match which every dash you finally go for. There seems to be a different wiring diagram for different Army versions and different wiring diagrams for the civilian ones, but none seems to match what I actually have wired into Lurch!

If I ever get round to re-doing the wiring on Lurch, I will wire up the back of the back of the dash to a waterproof plug and socket so it can be disconnected from the wiring as it comes up from the footwell, and from the front lights. That way if you need to get behind the dash you can. If you just use long wires to allow you pull the dash away from the bulkhead, then you have figure out a way of dealing with the excess wire behind he dash when you put it back..... One of the reasons it looks like a birds nest behind there!

John

[AustHaflinger]

Hi Chaps,

This morning I could smell gear oil in the garage so something is leaking..!
yes it is a little....snug but I rebuilt this from scratch in there so it can be done..

Well you should not have parked the Land Rover in the garage - if you park it on the grass you wont notice the oil leaks

[AustHaflinger]

If you haven't looked at the pictures in Constantin's web site, I would suggest you look through those to see which dash is correct for your Haflinger.
John

John, have you got a link for that page?

Garry

[heinkeljb]

I have just gone to have a look at Constantin's web site but it turns out that although there is a page for the dashboard, there is no actual information on there yet.

So all I can say with any certainty is that the UK Haflinger of 1973 LWB 703AP has a two fuse box layout with fuel gauge and possibly an added extra if you had a factory fitted tow bar a lamp on the dash that links to the indicators on the trailer. At least that's what mine as and I don't have any indications that it has been replaced.

John

[AustHaflinger]

Ok Thanks - my 73 only has a single fuse box.

[Julian B]

My UK spec LWB was made in July 1972 and has two fuse boxes. The dash is original.

Looking back through some old emails, I _think_ that dashboards were body coloured until ~1968, and from ~1969 they were black (in non-polycab versions anyway).

[gren_t]

Ok so after a messing about with Hemi driving it in and out of the garage I noticed he was dripping so after a poke about I found there was a slight drip from the sump plate and from the rear off side drive shaft.
Bought a gasket and drained the sump, oil was very dirty with the strainer needing lots of cleaning.
The sump plate was also bent, so after ticking it with a persuader it was good to go.
All refitted & refilled with clean 10/40 engine run up and oil light still on at idle but off when revs rise.
However this morning found Hemi had dumped his sump
So.. repeat using sealer and try again..
Does anyone have the torque setting for sump plate and drain plugs..

Cheers

[heinkeljb]

If the values have been given, then it should be in this topic:-
https://www.thehaflinger.com/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=642

John

[gren_t]

Hi chaps, I'm in the process of rewiring the the Haf, I've just replaced the battery cable and want to ensure the right bits are going to the correct holes.
the choke cable has a very accute bend and the fuel pipe is a section of copper pipe.
Can anyone help with what goes though what hole.?

[gren_t]

Here is my 1st attempt at a dashboard from 3mm Stainless Steel.
I'll run with this until I'm ready to paint and I'll replace this dashboard with a dash containing the Info placards.

[gren_t]

Refitting the Headlights lights with new reflectors and NOS Indicators so I can terminate the cables.

[heinkeljb]

I see if I can remember to take a picture of where the choke cable goes this evening. Just noticed that you are missing the two rubber sealing caps that go in the holes on the fire wall that allow access to the top shock absorber bolts. The engine bay is three quarters sealed. Along the bottom, around the engine and the engine lid. So might pay you to look see what holes you have that you can seal. Seems really daft to seal that much of the engine bay and then leave the rear section totally open!

Lights look go, but just remember they are not very bright using standard bulbs. Have a look for Quartz halogen ones - motor cycles used the same type of bulb and I was able to buy some before I changed the ones on Lurch to HID versions.

John

[Tajman]

Hello , with reference to the choke cable, I checked my photos before rebuild on my 1967 Mk 2, and the choke cable goes through the small hole that you can see to the right of the carb, even then its quite an acute angle but does work. On my Haffi , the fuel pipe and the throttle rod are similar to yours.
Good luck. Jeff

[gren_t]

Thanks for that .. I'll sort it this weekend.