The time has come to put all the brakes back together on my '68 Haflinger. I have been reading about those little springs that fit in behind the top of the shoes, and how hard they are to get back into place. After considerable time with longnose pliers, screwdrivers, and colorful language, there had to be a better way.
Have you ever wandered over to the tool box to see 'what might work"? Well, a little tool laying in the drawer looked promising. Where it came from or what it's purpose was I don't know. But it really makes quick work of those pesky springs!!
Poke the tool through the slot in the brake shoe, catch the hook of the spring, and tilt the tool as it is extracted from the shoe to keep the spring in the tool's tube. The spring hook rides right into place!
I could not get a picture with all the pieces in the right places so you have to use your imagination. Obviously the tool has to go through the slot in the shoe then to the spring hook.
Has anyone seen a tool like this before?
This takes maybe 10 seconds to do! Pictures attached.
Bob
Putting in those pesky top springs behind the brake shoes
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Putting in those pesky top springs behind the brake shoes
1952 Willys M-38, Unimogs from 1957, 1965, 1970, 1975, 1978, 1988, and a 1968 Haflinger NA bugeye!
Re: Putting in those pesky top springs behind the brake shoe
What I have been using with great success is a length of welding rod (/wire) with a small bend in the end. As in your example, poke it through the hole, catch the spring, pull back on the welding rod and then twist! Works every time!
Julian B
W Sussex, UK
| '62 Early Series I SWB | '72 Series II LWB |
| '56 Citroën Traction Avant |
W Sussex, UK
| '62 Early Series I SWB | '72 Series II LWB |
| '56 Citroën Traction Avant |
Re: Putting in those pesky top springs behind the brake shoe
I discovered that trick when I was dealing with the brakes on Lurch.
It is actually described in the repair manual. I don't think they say use welding wire specifically, but they do suggest putting a tool though the hole the spring is supposed to go through and twisting and pulling it through.
what we need is a short video showing how to do it, would be much clearer that trying to describe how you do it.
John
It is actually described in the repair manual. I don't think they say use welding wire specifically, but they do suggest putting a tool though the hole the spring is supposed to go through and twisting and pulling it through.
what we need is a short video showing how to do it, would be much clearer that trying to describe how you do it.
John
Haflinger 703AP LWB 1973 - (Once owned by Lady Sutherland & Sons.) Now called "Lurch" !
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Re: Putting in those pesky top springs behind the brake shoe
Thank you for this post, without it I would have been fiddling around for hours.
It actually took just a few seconds to put the springs in place!
Next time (I have only done one wheel so far!) I will video it.
Keep the tips coming.
It actually took just a few seconds to put the springs in place!
Next time (I have only done one wheel so far!) I will video it.
Keep the tips coming.
Re: Putting in those pesky top springs behind the brake shoe
As promised a long time ago here is a video showing the fitting of the "pesky" top springs
I hope it helps someone
http://youtu.be/mclAFkQZKwg
I hope it helps someone
http://youtu.be/mclAFkQZKwg
Re: Putting in those pesky top springs behind the brake shoe
Well done for posting a video - your method works well, just a shame you have to grab the wire with a pair of pliers in order to pull on the spring. Maybe a slight variation of your tool with a handle round which you have attached the wire would work as well?
My variation is only a single piece of wire with a hook bent on the end which you use to catch the spring, the other end is bent round to form a handle which allows you to pull on the spring without having to hold things in place whilst you reach for a pair of pliers.
Still as you only have to do 8 springs, maybe making a specific tool isn't really worth it.
John
My variation is only a single piece of wire with a hook bent on the end which you use to catch the spring, the other end is bent round to form a handle which allows you to pull on the spring without having to hold things in place whilst you reach for a pair of pliers.
Still as you only have to do 8 springs, maybe making a specific tool isn't really worth it.
John
Haflinger 703AP LWB 1973 - (Once owned by Lady Sutherland & Sons.) Now called "Lurch" !
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