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PostPosted: Wed Nov 16, 2016 11:13 am 
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Location: Mt Mellum.Sunshine Coast QLD
Hey Mike,
I did my brakes recently and all of the wheel cylinders were cactus and after pressing the pistons out I honed and then polished the cylinders and fitted a set of cups and boots into each cylinder. Its not always necessary to replace the cylinder. My rear cylinders are 19 mm which I stayed with as I figure the standard brakes will work OK until the time comes when I free wheel down the side of Mt Everest. I put the details of what after market parts I fitted when I did the brakes, suspension and steering, here under Steering brakes Wheels and Tyres and it is under Tie rod ends -joints The numbers I listed are relevant to Aus and probably not your neck of the woods but I think from memory they were early VW bits.
Regards Rick.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2016 12:51 am 
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Location: Canberra Australia
Thanks Rick - glad to here your wheel cylinder rebuild went Ok- that list you mentioned is for the cups and boots etc but I just want to replace the lot.

So if anyone has the VW numbers for the 22 and 19mm wheel cylinders it would be appreciated.

Cheers

Garry

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2016 1:01 am 
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heinkeljb wrote:
I know of a guy in the UK, Owns the 6 wheel Haflinger, who has done a disc brake conversion for the front on it. I know he also made a kit for another guy - so that make at least 2 Haflinger's with front disc brakes.
It required sacrificing a couple of front hubs os might be a "frowned upon" conversion if lots of people do it! What is need is someone make new purpose designed front hubs.

If those are made, they could take the opportunity to change the way the play in the front hubs dealt with!

John


Thanks John - I did have it on the back of my mind that someone on here had done it with a "normal" haffie but I could be wrong. Given the slow speed capability a disk could be machined up to fit over the wheel studs in place of the brake drum but it would probably result in sacrificing some hubs as the brake backing plate is integral with the hub but the main issue would be making and fitting a caliper retaining plate.

I was hoping someone of here had done it and could provide pointers - as I said just a thought bubble at this stage.

Gary

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2016 2:46 am 
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Location: Lewes, East Sussex - UK
I know the kit he made up is going on what is otherwise a standard SWB Haf. He machines the hubs down to the oil containing section. Makes a caliper holding plate which is bolted in place using some of the pre existing threaded holes. Don't know where the disc comes from, or if it has to have any work done on it.

A brand new hub machined up would have to start with a pretty big lump of Aluminium alloy and have a lot of machining work done on it. It might be possible to start with smaller lump and have bits like the King pin arms and caliper holding plate welded on, but not sure how well that would work.

John

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2016 7:45 am 
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Location: Mt Mellum.Sunshine Coast QLD
Hey Gary,
I dealt with ABS, they have out lets all over Aus, and they have listings for all VW after market bits. I think the bits I got were for 63---68 Beetle.
I suppose you need to have the new bits in one hand and the original bits in the other hand and be able to compare the shape, stud holes and line holes etc to make sure they are all the same. Not much good having the right size piston size but the physical shape and size of the cylinders are different.
If you have a look at info@wpvw.com.au this bloke might be able to help you as he restores, drives, drag races lives and breathes anything VW. He is in NSW somewhere but it maybe to far from where you are.
Regards Rick.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 29, 2016 10:24 am 
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As mentioned my front right brake squeals a lot when braking. For the last week I have been using the 12" rims with the Yokohamas and the squeal stopped. Switched back to my usual 14" rims (the car really does run much nicer withe the 14") and the squeal is back.

Any ideas on why the brake squeals with 14" rims but not 12" rims?

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Range Rover Sport TDV6 (07)
Landrover FC 101 (77)
Landrover Series 1 SWB Station Wagon (57)
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 29, 2016 7:08 pm 
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Have you got the metal load spreading sheet between the aluminium hub and the metal of the tyre rim?

Also possibly the brake material on the shoes is either not bonded 100% or that the shoes are glazed? Or even that the leading edges are not angled enough?

I would say most likely that it is down to the rim of your 14 inch wheel not touching the hub 100% i.e. a bit bent. Maybe try swapping the rims round and see if the squeal moves?

All just possibilities for you to check if you want!

John

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 29, 2016 10:30 pm 
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Hi John - yes still have the the little tin spacers on my hubs. A different 14" wheel went on the front right position. It is something to do with the shoe and drum as previously when I roughed up the shoe lining and the inside of the brake drum with sandpaper the noise goes away until everything smooths up again.

My only thoughts are that as the 12" wheels require less braking effort than the 14" the squeal is the result of the increased braking effort - the shoes are pushing against the drums harder and the noise is a result.

Garry

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Landrover FC 101 (77)
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 30, 2016 7:39 am 
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Have you tried adjusting the position of the brake shoes on that wheel, separate from the others? I know that will produce an uneven brake force, might even make it pull to one side, but it might make a difference to your noise.

John

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 30, 2016 12:16 pm 
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At the moment - all wheels are adjusted up but does still does pull to the right on heavy braking - then to the left and back to the right - all normal really. - :?

Maybe the shoes and drums are glazed.

Garry

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Range Rover Sport TDV6 (07)
Landrover FC 101 (77)
Landrover Series 1 SWB Station Wagon (57)
Landrover Series 1 SWB (57)
Jaguar E-type Roadster V12 (71)


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 30, 2016 8:48 pm 
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If they were glazed surely you would get the noise which ever set of wheels you put on? Unless you don't press as hard on the brake pedal each time.
I suppose when you are running the 12 inch wheels, you are not travelling as fast, so therefore you do not apply as much pressure to the brake pedal. - exactly what you stated in an earlier reply!!

You could do a time consuming experiment to test the theory..... Fit 12 inch wheels, drive at fixed speed, apply brakes to stop in certain distance. Fit 14 inch wheels, drive at same speed, apply brakes to stop in same distance.

Glazed shoes and lining would be easy to deal with - wheel off, hub off, some wet and dry to give the drum and shoes a quick wipe over. re-assemble and test.

John

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 01, 2016 2:47 am 
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heinkeljb wrote:
Glazed shoes and lining would be easy to deal with - wheel off, hub off, some wet and dry to give the drum and shoes a quick wipe over. re-assemble and test.

John


Yes done that and that is what makes me think it is glazing - sanded them and put back together and no noise but it comes back after a while.

I might try swapping the drums around and see what happens.

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Range Rover Sport TDV6 (07)
Landrover FC 101 (77)
Landrover Series 1 SWB Station Wagon (57)
Landrover Series 1 SWB (57)
Jaguar E-type Roadster V12 (71)


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