Cross reference for front flexible brake lines?

[tpond]

Just starting some projects on my new to me 1969 Canadian spec Bugeye. The first item on the hit list are the front brakes, as they have begun to drag. I have not dug in yet, but I am assuming that the front brake lines have expanded internally creating a check valve effect. Is there a cross reference for the front soft lines?

Thanks in advance.

[heinkeljb]

I don't know of any specific cross reference details but as the fittings are M10 x 1, all you will have to do is find somewhere which can match the lengths.
2 off, front brake flexible hose 430mm, M10 X 1
2 off, rear brake flexible hose 250mm, M10 X 1
1 off, chassis to 4 way adapter 200mm M10 X 1

Personalty, if I were going to replace any of the pipes, I would replace all of them. You have to break the system even to replace one and bleed the brakes afterwards so you might as well do all of them and be done with it for another 40 years!

Would also give you a chance to look the metal pipes with a more critical eye....

John

[AustHaflinger]

I would second what John has said - change all the flexible hoses - all of my older cars except the Haffie have had the issue and the only reason I did not have the issue with the Haffie was because the previous owner did them the week before I bought it.

I assume you are in Canadia (can you into your profile and put you town and country in) so you should be able to take a sample in to any reputable brake place and get some made or matched if you cannot get any - I am sure Haflinger Technik will have some if you cannot source closer to home.

Cheers

Garry

[tpond]

Thanks for your help! I was definitely planning to change them all out. I already found the shorter rear lines at the local auto parts store (for only $15 each!). Unfortunately, most of the local stores here, are of very little help unless you have a valid part number.

The Haflinger was originally sold into Ontario, then it made its way to Quebec. I purchased it from the second owner there, and transported it by train to Vancouver B.C. Now it is home, here in Oregon, USA.

Thanks again,

Toby

[Westernair]

Any hydraulic shop can make them for you. I also took the hard lines off and had them bend me a new set.

[tpond]

Thanks Shawn,I will go that route. I need to get it ready to roll for Mogfest!

[Westernair]

Thanks Shawn,I will go that route. I need to get it ready to roll for Mogfest!

Oh regarding the tires you asked about.
I have not gotten up to the shop since dropping the trailer off from the trefton.
I am obsessed with a VW project right now with the big Vintage VW weekend starting in 9 days.
I'll make sure I get a look at them and let you know before Mogfest
Shawn

[tpond]

Thanks.

[AustHaflinger]

Also take your old hoses with you - if the ends are an odd size and difficult to get they can take them off and put them on new rubber hoses.

[tpond]

Thanks Garry. Good tip!

[Westernair]

http://www.wofsco.com/ here in Tacoma made mine while I waited. You coming down this weekend for the micro car show?

[tpond]

Thanks Shawn. I wish I could come up for the Micro car show, but I am predisposed. Take lots of pictures!

[Goatwerks]

Hoses/pipes/wheel cylinders are usually on ebay.

[tpond]

Hey Jim,

Thanks. I remember seeing them in the past, but not lately.

I think I may have solved the problem. I just cleaned everything well, and bled through new fluid. Seems to be working well. I did find a gear fluid leak in the pasenger side front stub axel. So that will need looking at. Not quite sure where to start, but I am sure I will be an expert by the time I am done

[heinkeljb]

Toby,

Front hub leaks - you need to work out where the oil is actually coming from as it makes a big difference to how much you have to take off to fix it!

Bio-degradable degreaser and brushes, toothpicks / pieces of dowel shaped to chisel ends work well for most of the bigger lumps of caked on dirt.

Once you have the hubs cleaned, taking it for a drive should show you where the oil leak is starting.

Are you sure it isn't brake fluid?

If it is from the bottom part of the hub either the seal on the shaft to the wheel hub is leaking or the seal behind the plate which provides the preload on the wheel bearing needs attention - either are relatively quick repairs.

If it is from the bottom of the drive shaft tube, then the whole hub will have to come off so you can replace the strange double height oil seal in the drive shaft tube AND the bearing sleeve it seals on - have a read of the various threads in this section of the forum regarding this issue.

John

[tpond]

Hi John,

Thanks for the advice. As part of my work to make sure that the brakes did not drag, I cleaned everything thoroughly. It is definitely gear lube, and it is coming out right behind the hub flange (it leaks into the drum, right into the ridge in the drum that has the weep holes, almost like they expected this leak to happen, and provided an attempt to keep the oil off of the brake shoes.

Thanks again!

[heinkeljb]

Sounds like the easy fix - if any work on a Haflinger can be considered easy!

Take the brake drum off.
Drain the oil from the hub using the drain plug just above the brake cylinder bleed nipple.
Undo the four bolts on the rear of the hub that hold the square plate in place.
Put a long bit of bar - Tyre lever is ideal, diagonally through the wheel nut studs so you can prevent the hub from turning.
Undo the split pin and remove the nut on the hub shaft.
Make sure you rescue the thin washers that are between the plate and the bearing - they provide the wheel bearing preload.
Take the wheel flange out.

There is a seal on the hub that will need replacing.
ALSO replace the collar on the wheel flange that the seal runs on or it will just start leaking all over again very soon after you put it back together again!
Now you will ask: "How do you get the collar off to replace it"?
Very easily is the reply IF you know how!

Inside that collar is an "O" ring (which you will have to replace as well), All you have to do is use a blow torch and supply some heat directly to the collar.... The "O" ring will expand and "pop" the collar loose.

When you re-assemble, put the "O" ring on, (I used a little bit of silicone grease on mine). Use a piece of pipe that is long enough and of the correct diameter to go down the wheel flange shaft and tap the new collar into place.

Rest of it is the reverse of the above as most things of this nature are.

Hope you solve the oil leak.

John

p.s. They did expect this to happen as there is a little triangular piece of metal that is positioned to direct the leaking oil down to the point and then to drop into that channel in the brake drum.

[tpond]

Wow, thanks for the very articulate instructions! Sounds like I need to order some seals, and get to work.

[heinkeljb]

Do you have a parts book?

Very useful in trying to workout in which order things when you forget. Also very useful when you need to order parts as even if the name of a part is unknown, like trying to obtain bit from a supplier overseas. Every one know which bit you mean.

Section 6 of the 1969 / 70 parts book

Item 31 900.3805 oil seal A40x52 DIN 6504
Item 32 700.1.34.127.1 Race for oil seal (collar)
Item 66 700.1.34.271.1 PRP-916 "O" Ring


There is an "O" ring which provides the oil sealing under the plate which is held on with 4 bolts which you might as well replace at the same time as it will cost very little and the old one might be flat and hard and not seal well after being disturbed.

Item 41 700.1.34.277.1 52/47/4 "O" ring

There is a complicated way of getting the pre-load on the wheel bearing correct which is detailed in the repair manual. If you don't disturb the wheel bearing and put the shims that came out back in again (in the correct place) then as long as you do the flange shaft up 116 lbsf /157nm/ 16mkp, You should the same pre-load as you have at present.

John

[tpond]

John, spectacular info!

A friend has promised that I can have his parts book, as he no longer has a Haflinger. I just need to connect with him to collect it.

The info about the bearing preload is well noted. Thanks!

Toby