Front brakes

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wojo12
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Front brakes

Post by wojo12 »

My Hafie hasn't been stopping very straight, so I have finally removed a wheel and brakedrum. As I suspected oil, not brake fluid, all over the linings etc. How do I replace the axle seal?
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heinkeljb
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Re: Front brakes

Post by heinkeljb »

try this thread.

https://www.thehaflinger.com/viewtopic. ... l&start=20

within that thread is this post:-


Take off the rear bearing loading plate and keep track of all the shims (washers).
Use a long piece of rebar or other suitable implement to lock the studs on the hub flange whilst you undo the nut on the other end of the shaft.
Pull the flange and shaft out of the hub (bearing / seal).
Check the two surfaces of the seal, Hopefully you will find a little ridge on the shaft which would indicate where the seal has worn a grove and therefore might not be providing as good a seal as you would like.

For the cost of two bits of rubber and a steel collar, I would just replace them whilst I had it apart!

To do so:-

Heat the collar on the shaft (it's the bit right up against the flange) with a blow torch, it should start smoking and go "pop" as the rubber "0" ring inside it expands.
Take the ring off, put new "O" on, put new collar on, tap it on securely.
New oil seal in the hub.
Put it all back together again.

You probably don't even have to drain the oil from the hub although it might be a good idea as you can then put new oil in when you have put it back together again....

John
Haflinger 703AP LWB 1973 - (Once owned by Lady Sutherland & Sons.) Now called "Lurch" !

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wojo12
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Re: Front brakes

Post by wojo12 »

All that is beyond my capabilities. I need a versatile mechanic.

Thanks, John

John
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AustHaflinger
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Re: Front brakes

Post by AustHaflinger »

No its not :lol:

You will need to learn how to do simple things like this or you will go broke very quick :o

Practice makes perfect and you will learn a lot of other things along the way.

John has put up a link but if you take the time to go back over the various threads you will see lots of mistakes we have made, some successes, some tricks for new players and quite a lot of helpful pics.

Have a go and if you get stuck - ask :D

Garry
Haflinger 700AP (73)
Range Rover Sport TDV6 (07)
Landrover FC 101 (77)
Landrover Series 1 SWB Station Wagon (57)
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wojo12
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Re: Front brakes

Post by wojo12 »

What is a "rear bearing loading plate"?
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heinkeljb
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Re: Front brakes

Post by heinkeljb »

On the back of the hub ( side facing the centre of the Haflinger there is a square plate with four nuts holding it in place- that is the rear bearing load plate.

John
Haflinger 703AP LWB 1973 - (Once owned by Lady Sutherland & Sons.) Now called "Lurch" !

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Ole
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Re: Front brakes

Post by Ole »

Also check for any play in the wheel bearings if you decide to do this job. A new oil seal will not hold the oil inside if they have any play.

The wheel bearing play is adjusted with shims behind the bearing load plate. That is where the name comes from. It puts a load on the conical wheel bearings to take up any play. John have put up a post in here somewhere on how to adjust the preload to correct level. I just keep shimming until the play is gone and there is a very slight drag on the bearings compared to how they feel with no preload.
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wojo12
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Re: Front brakes

Post by wojo12 »

Thanks for all the help and encouragement, folks - I really appreciate it.

Where is the safest point to jack it up, at the front?
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heinkeljb
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Re: Front brakes

Post by heinkeljb »

Depends on your jack.....

If you have a trolley jack, block of wood on top of the jack and then jack up under the front Differential guard. You might have to drop it down a couple of times to get the balance correct. Then put axle stands under axles before working on the hubs.

If you have a hydraulic bottle jack or a scissor jack, then a block of wood on top of it and under one of the drive shaft tubes as near to one of the ends, either as far inboard or as far outboard as you can manage so you have enough room to put an axle stands in on the axle before you start working on the hub.

You can also jack up the front using the main drive tube linking the front and rear Differentials together. The original scissor jack has a cup shaped extension which you could flip over on the top of the jack so it fitted the tube perfectly.

The Haflinger is supposed to be 52 % rear 47 % front (with driver - about 50/50), so jack the main tube near the front Differential to lift the front. Near the rear Differential to lift the rear end!

John
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wojo12
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Re: Front brakes

Post by wojo12 »

Now that the car is jacked up. it appears that a seal somewhere has failed and I have gear oil all over my garage floor, under the engine area!
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Ole
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Re: Front brakes

Post by Ole »

Not to be rude, but you better get used to this. Seems like all Haflingers suffer from gear oil incontinence at times. Try to wipe it clean and investigate exactly where the leak is coming from.
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AustHaflinger
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Re: Front brakes

Post by AustHaflinger »

Perished swing arm boots would where I would be looking first.
Haflinger 700AP (73)
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heinkeljb
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Re: Front brakes

Post by heinkeljb »

Did you just jack up the front and leave the back on the floor? If so, what has happened is the oil has flowed to the back and found a hole in one of your swing arm rubber boots.

You will obviously need to clean up the spilt oil, you can buy proper stuff to do so or just cover it with fines sand and then sweep it up in to pile.

You will have to clean the rear axles at some point to be able to see which place is leaking oil. It do one bit at a time - I would deal with the front axle issue first.

Take the wheels off both sides, take the brake drums off both sides and see if there is oil or brake fluid over things. If the brake shoes are contaminated then they should be replaced. If it is brake fluid then replace the wheel cylinders. If it is oil then follow my guide and take out the wheel hub and replace both oil seals and the metal ring the seal runs on.

John
Haflinger 703AP LWB 1973 - (Once owned by Lady Sutherland & Sons.) Now called "Lurch" !

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wojo12
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Re: Front brakes

Post by wojo12 »

Thanks, all.
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wojo12
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Re: Front brakes

Post by wojo12 »

The oval O-ring behind that plate needed replacing. No shims in there. New round O-ring and axle seal going in tomorrow.

Re oil at the back while front is in the air -
Does the front diff, the centre tube and the back diff each run in their own separate oil, or are they interconnected?
Where and how do I replace the oil on my floor?

I can't wait to get it back on the road again!

Thanks all

John
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Re: Front brakes

Post by heinkeljb »

All three have seperate oil.

Looking from the back of the Haflinger, the gearbox oil filler hex head nut is on the left hand side just in front of the axle. Clean round it, open, fill with EP80/90 gl4 oil till it dribbles out the filet hole (assuming you are doing this on a level surface). Front diff oil filler iss right hand side just behind the axle. Centre tube only has a filler hole - so dip for oil via fill hole near front diff flier hex head.

Buy a workshop manual / an exploded diagram parts
Book and operators booklet!

John
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Re: Front brakes

Post by wojo12 »

heinkeljb wrote:All three have seperate oil.

Looking from the back of the Haflinger, the gearbox oil filler hex head nut is on the left hand side just in front of the axle. Clean round it, open, fill with EP80/90 gl4 oil till it dribbles out the filet hole (assuming you are doing this on a level surface). Front diff oil filler iss right hand side just behind the axle. Centre tube only has a filler hole - so dip for oil via fill hole near front diff flier hex head.

John
Thanks, John - that's what I originally thought. But I can't work out how jacking up the front could cause some much oil to come out of the rear of the car. It isn't jacked up very high.

John
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Re: Front brakes

Post by AustHaflinger »

When you locate the source of the leak then that might become clear.

In an recent thread of mine where I had to change a rear hub oil seal, I mentioned I had to jack up one side and the next morning there was a big pool of oil on the other side - thought it might have been a split seal on the engine rocker oil return bit it wasn't.

I cleaned all the area up but could not find the source - when the car is on the ground and running there is no leaks - I suspect a leaky rear swing arm boot - due to the stupid design where the diff oil flows into the swing arm, think when tilted the diff oil ran to the low end and out a possible small hole in the boot - when level the oil level is lower and does not run out.

Good luck with it.

Garry
Haflinger 700AP (73)
Range Rover Sport TDV6 (07)
Landrover FC 101 (77)
Landrover Series 1 SWB Station Wagon (57)
Landrover Series 1 SWB (57)
Jaguar E-type Roadster V12 (71)
Jaguar XJ12C (76)
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wojo12
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Re: Front brakes

Post by wojo12 »

garrycol wrote:When you locate the source of the leak then that might become clear.

In an recent thread of mine where I had to change a rear hub oil seal, I mentioned I had to jack up one side and the next morning there was a big pool of oil on the other side - thought it might have been a split seal on the engine rocker oil return bit it wasn't.

I cleaned all the area up but could not find the source - when the car is on the ground and running there is no leaks - I suspect a leaky rear swing arm boot - due to the stupid design where the diff oil flows into the swing arm, think when tilted the diff oil ran to the low end and out a possible small hole in the boot - when level the oil level is lower and does not run out.

Good luck with it.

Garry
Thanks Garry.
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heinkeljb
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Re: Front brakes

Post by heinkeljb »

Remember oil "spreads" out and creeps to cover a very large area for a small amount of oil. If the oil level in the rear gearbox / diff unit was at the correct height when the Haf was on a level surface, it could well be as Gary says, a hole above that level would not leak (well, maybe a dribble of rough ground). Then when you lift the front, the oil pools at the back and could easily raise the oil level above said hole if it was in one of the rubbers axle boots. (They seem to perish rather easily nowadays - different type of rubber presumably).

Clean the floor, put a tray under there. Deal with the front hubs and then come back to the "oil leak" at the rear.

John
Haflinger 703AP LWB 1973 - (Once owned by Lady Sutherland & Sons.) Now called "Lurch" !

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