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PostPosted: Sun Apr 30, 2017 10:50 pm 
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Location: Mt Mellum.Sunshine Coast QLD
Hey Gary,
If you have fitted that rod and it is quite an amount different in length, like you say an inch or so, hasn't that then created a much smaller steering lock on one side or the other? I would have thought that an inch or so would have been to much difference in the lengths of the rods.
Regards Rick.


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PostPosted: Mon May 01, 2017 12:33 am 
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Location: Canberra Australia
Hi Rick - I didn't say mine was a different length but when I ordered it the seller could not tell me how long it was so I had to go by the advertised box length.

The original Haflinger rods are crimped and are not adjustable - where the aftermarket ones we are talking about here have adjustable tie rod ends on both ends so even with the tie rods in the middle position I estimate the aftermarket rod only needs to be within an inch or so or the original in length for it to fit. If too long the ends can be wound in to the correct length and the opposite if too short - thought you need to ensure they are not would out too far with minimal thread contact between the rod and ends. The rule of thumb is that as an absolute minimum the length of the treads in contact should be greater than diameter of the tie rod end.

I cannot remember whether the rod I got was too short or too long but I was able to get the overall length right by adjusting the ends.

Cheers

garry

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PostPosted: Mon May 01, 2017 8:25 pm 
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I am going to throw a spanner at this in case to see if it gets caught up in the works!

I know they put the steering idler in the middle of the front diff so that they could make a Haflinger either left or right hand drive very easily, BUT are the rods from the steering boxes to the idler arm the same? Same length? The steering boxes are obviously on different sides of eh vehicle, but that could mean they are different lengths!

I can measure the one of Lurch - Right hand drive 703 (1973) if anyone wants that information.

John

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PostPosted: Tue May 02, 2017 3:37 am 
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The left hand drive steering drag link has a different part number to the right hand drive drag link have different part numbers in the parts book so they must be slightly different - I cannot see why as left hand drive and right hand drive steering system is just a mirror image of each other but the must be a small difference somewhere but when an after market or other make drag link is used I dont think it will make any difference as they are adjustable to fit.

gary

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Range Rover Sport TDV6 (07)
Landrover FC 101 (77)
Landrover Series 1 SWB Station Wagon (57)
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PostPosted: Tue May 02, 2017 7:03 am 
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What I was getting at is that it is possible that the distance the steering box arm is from the center idler arm could be different and it is possible that there is a bend in the LHD one - The right hand drive one is straight for what it is worth.

I agree an adjustable one should work if it with in some limits of originals length, as per comments above regarding how much thread length should be in the rod.

John

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PostPosted: Sun May 07, 2017 4:23 pm 
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The link I posted did not work. I too, received a one joint which was angled, and the rod was two inches too long.

I recently replaced the tie rods, which came with two tie rods which were not used (the bar). I chopped two inches off the center and welded together. All is good.

I'll replace the angled ball joint if it fails. So far, no binding, no extreme angles. I expect it will be fine.


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PostPosted: Mon May 08, 2017 5:42 am 
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audiocontr wrote:
I too, received a one joint which was angled, and the rod was two inches too long.
I chopped two inches off the center and welded together. All is good.

I'll replace the angled ball joint if it fails. So far, no binding, no extreme angles. I expect it will be fine.


Tie rod ends are cheap enough (old beetle ends) so I would replace the bend one. I also found it did not bind but it was border line.

I guess I am telling you something you already knew but cutting and rewelding the rod is not good practice - where the weld is will be a weak spot. I would have just tapped the thread deeper at one end and cut a piece of the end of the rod off and adjusted the remaining length with the tie rod ends.

But what is done is done - just keep an eye on the weld for cracks that might develop.

Good luck with it.

garry

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Haflinger 700AP (73)
Range Rover Sport TDV6 (07)
Landrover FC 101 (77)
Landrover Series 1 SWB Station Wagon (57)
Landrover Series 1 SWB (57)
Jaguar E-type Roadster V12 (71)


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PostPosted: Mon May 08, 2017 6:42 am 
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You can always reinforce the weld joint by welding a sleeve on the outside.

For most people, tapping a lefthand thread would require buying an expensive tap just for that one job - having said that, they would probably have to buy a right hand one as it is not likely to be a size in most people's tool set. Only difference would be the right hand tap would likely be cheaper.

Still, As Garry says, what's done is done and if it works - any weird feelings through the steering wheel, check the linkages!

John

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