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PostPosted: Mon Aug 28, 2017 7:07 am 
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Joined: Sun Dec 30, 2012 12:49 pm
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Location: Lewes, East Sussex - UK
Handbrake does not work correctly, so had the drums off yesterday. Whilst we were dealing with the gearbox / diff a couple of weekends ago I put a new handbrake cable on as the original had splits in the outer covering which let out the grease.

Whilst trying to work out why the handbrake does not work, I noticed that one of the cam adjusters had broken the peg which moves the brake shoes. So had to figure out how to replace it.
Another of the Haflinger's designers "we'll do it like this because we can!" items..... Who would think the an item that rotates should have SPOT WELDS on it or that you should WELD a 19 mm nut ON THE END.

so much fuss and nonsense later with the angle grinder I have managed to get the broken one out. Had an early version on a spare backplate so more fuss and nonsense to get that one out. Botch job of drilling a hole through a 19mm nut and the shaft of the adjuster so I can put it through the back plate, put the washers on. Put the nut on and put a pin through to hold the nut in place.

I will order a couple of replacements from Dale and do a better job another day.

So now I can get back to trying to get the handbrake to work! It just does not want to lock the rear drums up. Another go at them today.

John

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Haflinger 703AP LWB 1973 - (Once owned by Lady Sutherland & Sons.) Now called "Lurch" !

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 28, 2017 9:50 am 
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Location: Canberra Australia
I have gotta look at mine as well - cable adjusted up and handbrake still does not hold well. I might have to move the external lever on the rear hubs on its splines but I know it is a pain to do. Some time back it was the lever in the actual brake drum that was worn where it levers the shoes out but some welding and grinding fixed it - as you indicated the system is more complex than it needs to be - must have been designed by a Brit ;)

Mine is going to stay at it is as I need to skim the drums, put in new shoes and put the big wheel cylinders in the front and as part of rebuilding the brake sort the handbrake then.

Garry

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 28, 2017 11:19 am 
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Joined: Sun Dec 30, 2012 12:49 pm
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Location: Lewes, East Sussex - UK
Half the problem as far as I can tell, is that the lever the brake cable pulls on is past the MAX lever advantage by the time you have even started pulling the handbrake on.

Going to have another go at adjusting thing today. Bought some new rear brake shoes thinking they were worn out - can't get the drums on with the new brake shoes in place! So trying to move teh splined lever seems to be about the only real adjustment I can do.

John

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Haflinger 703AP LWB 1973 - (Once owned by Lady Sutherland & Sons.) Now called "Lurch" !

Have you hit the "DONATE" button at the bottom of the page after reading this post? Many thanks if you have!!


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