Handbrake Lever Position

walderse
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Re: Handbrake Lever Position

Post by walderse »

Garry,
None of the levers I examined on the farm this morning appear to be like those you and John have. The shorter levers I have come to know and love appear to be a one piece metal forming while yours appear to be a two piece production welding the forward tubular handle section to the flat inverted "U" folded pivot section. There is no doubt your handles are longer and do interfere. The extra 39mm of length would be a distinct disadvantage with no practical up side. I have never seen a long handle like yours in person, seeing photos of similar levers (can't say I paid particular attention looking for that detail) nor have I ever had the experience of gear shift lever/hand brake lever interference.

The other interesting difference I see in your truck's equipment compared to ALL those have ever see is in the mounting fixture of lever to body. Your "bearing support/lagerbock"" fixture appears to be more of an boxy hourglass shape with a narrow section at the lever pivot with wide sections both fore and aft. It is also mounted to the bodywork with Allen/socket head bolts apparently due to clearance restriction due to the wider front and rear sections. All the trucks we have on the property now and all the extra lever assemblies I have in stock have the non-hourglass parallel-sided "bearing support/lagerbock" as shown in the Swiss military parts book dated 1961 as well as the most recent parts book dated 1970. The part numbers for the identical parallel-sided piece are 501.1.3504.2 in the Swiss manual and 501.2.35.004.2 in the standard SDP Haflinger manual. The 501 prefix is another example of the Puch 500 origin for these parts. Standard mounting bolts are a hex head M8x12 in the Swiss manual and hex head M8x15 in the 1970 manual. There is a handwritten addition in the 1970 manual of a Zylinderschraube M8x16. I find no printed evidence of two different lever mounting fixtures in the parts manuals and all the operator's manuals I have seen show only the parallel-sided "bearing support/lagerbock".

I have no adequate explanation as to why your trucks are equipped the way they are. Since the handles listed in the parts books carry either the 700 or 703 prefix, we know those levers are Haflinger specific. It makes me wonder if your lever is actually a longer one from a Puch 500D/650T/650TR/700C/700E auto series rather than the 700AP/703AP Haflinger series. Perhaps Constantin can add additional insight.

My hope is that you and John can bring your dueling levers interference issues to some resolution quickly.

Take care.

Jim Molloy
Waldersee Farm
http://www.northwestmogfest.com
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AustHaflinger
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Re: Handbrake Lever Position

Post by AustHaflinger »

Yes hard to explain - though John's and my arrangement is the same with the Allen Key bolts and all - I believe John's is a 73 as is mine, so postdates the parts manuals that most of us have access too. I have a poor pic of an Aussie 74 and it looks as it has the same handbrake lever. So two haffs built in Melbourne Aust have the same arrangement as John's one in the UK - I guess just a later mod.

I think the levers are supposed to be bent slightly to the left so it clears the gear lever even though it is longer - however in RHD cars when pulling the handbrake on it, as you also tend to pull it towards the right a little and over time it bends to the right. If in a LHD car the opposite.

Anyway a bit of a mystery that may come clear over time.

Thanks for all the input

Garry
Haflinger 700AP (73)
Range Rover Sport TDV6 (07)
Landrover FC 101 (77)
Landrover Series 1 SWB Station Wagon (57)
Landrover Series 1 SWB (57)
Jaguar E-type Roadster V12 (71)
Jaguar XJ12C (76)
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heinkeljb
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Re: Handbrake Lever Position

Post by heinkeljb »

Gear position relative to the hole in the cabin is controlled by the length of the rod connecting the bottom of the gear lever to the joint at the top of the gearbox tower.

This would only come in 4 lengths.

4 speed SWB (early vehicles)
4 speed LWb (early vehicles)

4 speed + krawler SWB
4 speed + krawler LWB

5 speed SWB
5 speed LWB

The 4 speed SWB would be one version
The 4 speed LWB would be another version
The 4 speed + krawler and 5 speed SWB would be the same length.
THe 4 speed + krawler and 5 speed LWB would be the same length.

A small amount of position variation can be achieved by removing or adding the shims at the gearbox tower joint.

Removing the shims would have the effect of making the gear lever neutral position nearer the front of the vehicle. Adding the maximum 6 shims would have the effect of moving the neutral position near the back of the vehicle. (Mine has had all the shims removed in a effort to move the gear lever neutral position as far forward as possible with the added benefit of moving the position of the gear lever when in 1st, 3rd, 5th as far forward as I can get it. The pictures posted in my earlier post shows that even removing the shims has not solved the problem.

I suppose the next thing to do is to see if I can "twist" the position of Reverse, 1st, 3rd, 5th either nearer to the the steering wheel or further away and see if I can make the "gap" between Reverse and 1st become inline with the handbrake.

Basically, lots of trail and error with "all" the adjustment points!

John
Haflinger 703AP LWB 1973 - (Once owned by Lady Sutherland & Sons.) Now called "Lurch" !

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walderse
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Re: Handbrake Lever Position

Post by walderse »

Garry,
It may be a simple case of odd parts being used at the end of a production to expedite getting the last vehicles out the door. I know my LHD 1973 703APK Polycab has the shorter lever and the parallel-sided lever mount secured with standard M8 hex head bolts.

Perhaps some of the NOS parts suppliers could add insight based on what they have on their shelves.

It is an interesting twist that seems to be limited to the late model RHD trucks.

Just included a link below to a YouTube video I hope all will find entertaining.

Best wishes.
Take care.

Jim Molloy
Waldersee Farm
http://www.northwestmogfest.com
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R6_pij5P4ro
jhon
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Re: Handbrake Lever Position

Post by jhon »

walderse wrote: Just included a link below to a YouTube video I hope all will find entertaining.
Jim, it was very entertaining indeed, great music choices as background too! I recognised some of the trucks from other forums I frequent; it looks like a great event in a fantastic setting.

Keeping this post on-topic, I have the same issue with my long handbrake lever too - this I remedied by bending it slightly to one side; it's not perfect but doesn't get in the way too bad now.

Cheers,

John
pathfinder700ap
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Re: Handbrake Lever Position

Post by pathfinder700ap »

Hello everybody,

I haven't been into this topic in detail so far, but the findings in this thread are definitely interesting. In the latest official Haflinger spares catalogue that I know of (edition 1970 with handwritten extensions no. 907.1.70.253.4, printed 1991) there is a "reinforced" hand brake lever listed with part no. 703.2.35.011.2 (this is an alternative to pos. 1 in group 8 05/1).

It could well be that this reinforced lever is the longer one described in this topic. I think my 1974 Navy Haflinger also has this type of lever, see:
http://tdc.haflinger-4wd.com/zubehoer/s ... height=600 and
http://tdc.haflinger-4wd.com/types/royalnavy.php

Other related parts were changed as well in the catalogue with similar 703... parts numbers, e.g. the lever support etc. Interestingly, the newer type of lever seems to have come with inbus bolts on the support instead of hex-head bolts. This is also listed in the catalogue and represented on some of the shown pictures in this discussion.

I do not know why this change was made. Since the parts have 703 parts numbers, it may be a change for the LWB Haflinger in order to achieve a larger braking force with the handbrake (LWB haflingers also have longer brake pedals than SWBs).


Cheers,
Constantin
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AustHaflinger
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Re: Handbrake Lever Position

Post by AustHaflinger »

Thanks for that Constantin - the lever in the pics you linked too is the same as mine. You referenced that it might be the "reinforced" lever and while the description might be correct the lever itself is not reinforced and in fact is quite weak where the lever tube joins the floor mechanism - the crimping at that point makes the lever susceptible to sideways movement and bending with metal fatigue setting in as is happening with mine - I need to reinforce it before the lever breaks off.

Garry
Haflinger 700AP (73)
Range Rover Sport TDV6 (07)
Landrover FC 101 (77)
Landrover Series 1 SWB Station Wagon (57)
Landrover Series 1 SWB (57)
Jaguar E-type Roadster V12 (71)
Jaguar XJ12C (76)
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Julian B
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Re: Handbrake Lever Position

Post by Julian B »

It could well be that this reinforced lever is the longer one described in this topic. I think my 1974 Navy Haflinger also has this type of lever, see:
http://tdc.haflinger-4wd.com/zubehoer/s ... height=600
Interesting to see that your lever is also "bent" at the junction between the tubular section and the pressed metal part :)
Julian B
W Sussex, UK

| '62 Early Series I SWB | '72 Series II LWB |
| '56 Citroën Traction Avant |
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AustHaflinger
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Re: Handbrake Lever Position

Post by AustHaflinger »

garrycol wrote:the crimping at that point makes the lever susceptible to sideways movement and bending with metal fatigue setting in as is happening with mine - I need to reinforce it before the lever breaks off.

Garry
Well because I am lazy, I did not get around to reinforce the lever - well guess what? Backing out of the garage and parking on the drive the lever broke - not right off but enough for the handbrake to be ineffective :?

So I guess it is under the vehicle to disconnect the hand brake cable from the base of the lever and remove the lever fitting from between the seats and weld it up. When I do I am going to make it stronger and have it tilted to the left away from the gear lever.

Garry
Haflinger 700AP (73)
Range Rover Sport TDV6 (07)
Landrover FC 101 (77)
Landrover Series 1 SWB Station Wagon (57)
Landrover Series 1 SWB (57)
Jaguar E-type Roadster V12 (71)
Jaguar XJ12C (76)
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heinkeljb
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Re: Handbrake Lever Position

Post by heinkeljb »

If you do bend it Gary, make sure the rod down the middle still works!! Lol. Or you will be able to put the handbrake on but not let it off....

John
Haflinger 703AP LWB 1973 - (Once owned by Lady Sutherland & Sons.) Now called "Lurch" !

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AustHaflinger
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Re: Handbrake Lever Position

Post by AustHaflinger »

Yes checked all that - all rewelded and now waiting for the paint to dry.
Haflinger 700AP (73)
Range Rover Sport TDV6 (07)
Landrover FC 101 (77)
Landrover Series 1 SWB Station Wagon (57)
Landrover Series 1 SWB (57)
Jaguar E-type Roadster V12 (71)
Jaguar XJ12C (76)
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AustHaflinger
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Re: Handbrake Lever Position

Post by AustHaflinger »

Well after a few hours work I have managed to get the lever all back in. The hard job is not the lever itself - just 4 bolts but adjusting the cables back up under the car - that adjuster nut takes forever to adjust up given its position where each movement of the spanner only moves the nut about 1/12th of a turn - the spot is too tight to allow a rachet ring spanner to unlatch and then relatch so move the nut.

To help the process, each time the nut get a bit tight, you can pull the handbrake on and release then the adjuster nut can be turned by hand a bit so saving effort. Anyway after about an hour flat on my back under the car in 36 degree heat the handbrake was all adjusted up :)

So then I went to find the wire that goes on the fuel tank low fuel sender and spotted that all was not right with the handbrake cable :x For those who do not know, the handbrake system has a rod about 15" long which attaches to the bottom handbrake lever with the adjusting nut and at the other end there is a pulley that the actual handbrake cable goes around so that when the handbrake is pulled, the cable moves on the pulley so that equal pressure is applied to both wheels.

The cable was not on the pulley and had come off and was pulling in the axle of the pulley :(

So about 30 minutes to undo the adjuster nut again - pull out the rod, dismantle the pulley as the cable was jammed in tight, reassemble the pulley with the cable on the pulley, reattach the rod to the bottom of the lever and another hour adjusting the nut back up - but now all is good. :D

Garry
Haflinger 700AP (73)
Range Rover Sport TDV6 (07)
Landrover FC 101 (77)
Landrover Series 1 SWB Station Wagon (57)
Landrover Series 1 SWB (57)
Jaguar E-type Roadster V12 (71)
Jaguar XJ12C (76)
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heinkeljb
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Re: Handbrake Lever Position

Post by heinkeljb »

I'll tell you now, after the fact!

I use a "pass through" ratchet socket with approx 5 degree ratchet. this allows me to ratchet the nut in either direction even with the limited movement available. I also do it by holding the pulley wheel in one hand, to make sure the cable stays in the groove. Then the other hand does the ratcheting!

The nut has a half moon cut in the end that goes against the handbrake lever cross rod. Make sue you leave the nut in the correct position or you might find that your handbrake you thought was adjusted nicely has become slack and now needs another "notch" to lock the rear wheels.

Another weird "just because we can" way of doing the handbrake - actually, it's not as bad as they could have made it! They could have put 5 adjusters in it!

John
Haflinger 703AP LWB 1973 - (Once owned by Lady Sutherland & Sons.) Now called "Lurch" !

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AustHaflinger
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Re: Handbrake Lever Position

Post by AustHaflinger »

I did have a rachet spanner but it just moved the nut back and forth as available range was too tight for the rachet. I do not have the half moon on my nut as I guess a previous owner found out what a pain it is to adjust up the handbrake and ground it off. while I remember it I might buy a fine toothed rachet spanner 14mm and 11mm for future use.

I learnt the joys of handbrake adjustment a few years ago when I put my car on the road and remembering that experience I had been putting things off but the handbrake lever broke so had no choice - so hopefully other than fine adjustment I will not have to play with it for a while.

Garry
Haflinger 700AP (73)
Range Rover Sport TDV6 (07)
Landrover FC 101 (77)
Landrover Series 1 SWB Station Wagon (57)
Landrover Series 1 SWB (57)
Jaguar E-type Roadster V12 (71)
Jaguar XJ12C (76)
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