Master Cylinder Repairs

[FosterTas]

Hi
I have begun working on my Haffy again. Started to work on the brakes, have replaced the break pads and cylinders in the wheels. Upon starting to bleed the breaks I was pumping the break pedal and a pin/something seems to have disconnected from the back, so that the pedal will jam on depression and can be corrected by lifting something at the back underneath the steering box.

To understand the issue I need to remove the master cylinder and check out the problem. It looks like a difficult job because of the poor access to the links sitting at the back/under the steering box. Might as well service the master cylinder whilst it is out.

My question is will I have to remove the steering column to be able to connect/reconnect the master cylinder to the break pedal??

Is there any guide on how to remove and service the master cylinder?

UPDATE I removed the master cylinder and the inner workings have siezed with corrosion on the inner surface of the barrel. I suspect I will need to buy a new one.

One more question. Where the break line attaches to the exit of the master cylinder, the nut on the break line itself is brass?, is there a trick to getting these loosened without burring the edges of the nut?


Thanks


Craig

[heinkeljb]

There are various master cylinders out there that you "could" use, the nearest to the original is a VW one. Difference is that it has 3 outlet hole not two. So you have to put plugs in the unused ones.

The brass nut should respond to a penetrating oil like PlusGas over a period of time or you can try heat.

You can remove the master cylinder with out having to take the steering box out as the pedal lever just pushes a pin down the master cylinder. Master cylinder is held in place by two bolts.

John

[AustHaflinger]

They are not all that expensive to buy

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Master-Brak ... rk:51:pf:0

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Steyr-Puch- ... k:180:pf:0

Garry

[FosterTas]

John and Garry
Thank you for the advice. I will purchase one off ebay and replace it.

[mechanical horse]

Hey Gary,
It might pay you to get a split ring spanner which are made for over tight fittings on brake lines. They are like a normal ring spanner with a slot in the ring which is just enough to slip over the brake line and then you have nearly a complete ring spanner to swing on rather than an open ender which has only got a couple of flats to grip on.
Much cheaper to get one of those than to replace that bit of brake line that you have stuffed with an open ender or a shifter.
I am sure that Hobart would have a half decent store like Repco to get the spanner, as we have even got the in QLD.
Regards Rick.

[mechanical horse]

Hey Craig,
My apoligies, I have just re baptised you with a different name.
It is not all dementia on my part as I have got a mate named Gary Foster.
Regards Rick.

[wojo12]

I have just been working on my lack of brake lights - someone had externally mounted a mechanical pressure switch near the brake pedal pivot point. This was possibly because one of the side plate cover screws was unbudgable. Now with both side plates of I can see a fluid leak where the brake fluid reservoir line connects to the master cylinder. All I can see is the fluid line going into a rubber boot over the connection to the master cylinder. I cannot contemplate how that line is attached. Can anyone advise me?

Unhappy - not Haffing!! LOL

John W

[AustHaflinger]

Again - not the greatest design - the pipe from the brake fluid reservoir is just pushed into the rubber grommet - the rubber just grabs it with its elasticity and friction.

See here for more information viewtopic.php?f=22&t=704

[heinkeljb]

The best solution for that pipe connection is to try a get the pipe to go into the rubber grommet at as near vertical as you can get it with in the small space with out kinking it.
Luckily the pipe material is quite soft and will bend by hand if needed.

John