Don't laugh, but I have booked to take my 1962 Haflinger to a local classic car place that specialises in rolling road tuning and carb tweaking etc. Whilst my engine is running OK I am not convinced that it is quite right - it sings along when going down a very slight slope, but struggles to go particularly spritely when faced with the most marginal incline.
I have never been to one of these places before. Is there anything I should know before I go / anything that I should ensure that they do / don't do? When I called them today they sounded interested in the type of vehicle, but had never seen one before.
TIA
Engine tune up - rolling road and carb
Engine tune up - rolling road and carb
Julian B
W Sussex, UK
| '62 Early Series I SWB | '72 Series II LWB |
| '56 Citroën Traction Avant |
W Sussex, UK
| '62 Early Series I SWB | '72 Series II LWB |
| '56 Citroën Traction Avant |
Re: Engine tune up - rolling road and carb
Julian,
Question them closely before allowing them to put it on a rolling road as to what they are going to do - Ignition timing / carburetor tuning / alteration etc. If they sound at all unsure of what they would actually be altering. My advise would be to drive away.
I am not going to say that Gary's experience is a result of the tuning work he had done, his guy sounded like he knew what he was doing. I have killed a couple of two stroke engines in the past whilst "playing" with ignition timing / carburation. The engines ran well for a while, but seized after a while.
Are they going to tie in down? Blow air at it from a big fan - it's air cooled with it's own fan, but I doubt that is would like high revs whilst stationary for a long time with out some extra air flow!
Get them to do a "before" and "after" print out and to explain what the lines mean and how they achieved the alterations. I.E. changing the ignition timing 1 degree, did this....
Don't get me wrong, I am not saying don't do it, just be cautious and if it doesn't feel right, leave it and try again another day / way...
John
Question them closely before allowing them to put it on a rolling road as to what they are going to do - Ignition timing / carburetor tuning / alteration etc. If they sound at all unsure of what they would actually be altering. My advise would be to drive away.
I am not going to say that Gary's experience is a result of the tuning work he had done, his guy sounded like he knew what he was doing. I have killed a couple of two stroke engines in the past whilst "playing" with ignition timing / carburation. The engines ran well for a while, but seized after a while.
Are they going to tie in down? Blow air at it from a big fan - it's air cooled with it's own fan, but I doubt that is would like high revs whilst stationary for a long time with out some extra air flow!
Get them to do a "before" and "after" print out and to explain what the lines mean and how they achieved the alterations. I.E. changing the ignition timing 1 degree, did this....
Don't get me wrong, I am not saying don't do it, just be cautious and if it doesn't feel right, leave it and try again another day / way...
John
Last edited by heinkeljb on Mon Mar 17, 2014 9:59 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Haflinger 703AP LWB 1973 - (Once owned by Lady Sutherland & Sons.) Now called "Lurch" !
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Re: Engine tune up - rolling road and carb
Hi John, your comments and concerns are noted and I will be cautious. But when you say ...
... what difference does it make to a rear engined fan assisted engine whether it is moving or not. Surely all the airflow it needs comes from the dynastarter fan, with minimal cooling coming from any airflow created by travelling forward? Or perhaps not!heinkeljb wrote:Are they going to tie it down? Blow air at it from a big fan - it's air cooled with it's own fan, but I doubt that is would like high revs whilst stationary for a long time with out some extra air flow!
Julian B
W Sussex, UK
| '62 Early Series I SWB | '72 Series II LWB |
| '56 Citroën Traction Avant |
W Sussex, UK
| '62 Early Series I SWB | '72 Series II LWB |
| '56 Citroën Traction Avant |
Re: Engine tune up - rolling road and carb
Julian,
My concerns are probably groundless!
I haven't been to one of these places either, but Utube is full of horror stories!
However, I do wonder why the Haflinger governor when fitted with the hand throttle system does not have a full throttle setting? On the road it is acceptable to put your foot flat on the floor, but presumably the designers were banking on the fact you you will never get max revs whilst driving except while going down hill when the vehicle is pushing the engine! I take it to mean they did not think the engine would last if run at full throttle for any length of time.
How long do these tuning sessions last?
John
My concerns are probably groundless!
I haven't been to one of these places either, but Utube is full of horror stories!
However, I do wonder why the Haflinger governor when fitted with the hand throttle system does not have a full throttle setting? On the road it is acceptable to put your foot flat on the floor, but presumably the designers were banking on the fact you you will never get max revs whilst driving except while going down hill when the vehicle is pushing the engine! I take it to mean they did not think the engine would last if run at full throttle for any length of time.
How long do these tuning sessions last?
John
Haflinger 703AP LWB 1973 - (Once owned by Lady Sutherland & Sons.) Now called "Lurch" !
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AustHaflinger
- Posts: 2471
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2013 1:27 am
- Location: Canberra Australia
Re: Engine tune up - rolling road and carb
Yes I have experience with a dyno and it worked well - it highlighted a number of issues going on in my No1 cylinder and the engine generally - like extreme ignition advancement at mid range revs and tight tappets etc - these problems seem to have set the seeds for my current issues but the dyno did pick them up.
One thing I would change - the tester only went as high as 3800rpm on the dyno - now while we do not drive our Haffies flat out revs at cruising speed on a main road would normally be around 4000-4200rpm (I have a tacho) and if you have slow speed hub gears maybe up to the governor cut off - I not sure. Irrespective what revs/speed you do drive around on main roads make sure that the test on the dyno does test up to the revs you would drive around it on a continuous run on a main road - this will show up any changes in mixture or ignition at the speed that you will be cruising around at.
I don't think there is anything you have to worry about concerning the operation of the dyno - they know what they are doing. Just make sure they know not to take the cooling shroud off.
Cheers
Garry
One thing I would change - the tester only went as high as 3800rpm on the dyno - now while we do not drive our Haffies flat out revs at cruising speed on a main road would normally be around 4000-4200rpm (I have a tacho) and if you have slow speed hub gears maybe up to the governor cut off - I not sure. Irrespective what revs/speed you do drive around on main roads make sure that the test on the dyno does test up to the revs you would drive around it on a continuous run on a main road - this will show up any changes in mixture or ignition at the speed that you will be cruising around at.
I don't think there is anything you have to worry about concerning the operation of the dyno - they know what they are doing. Just make sure they know not to take the cooling shroud off.
Cheers
Garry
Haflinger 700AP (73)
Range Rover Sport TDV6 (07)
Landrover FC 101 (77)
Landrover Series 1 SWB Station Wagon (57)
Landrover Series 1 SWB (57)
Jaguar E-type Roadster V12 (71)
Jaguar XJ12C (76)
Range Rover Sport TDV6 (07)
Landrover FC 101 (77)
Landrover Series 1 SWB Station Wagon (57)
Landrover Series 1 SWB (57)
Jaguar E-type Roadster V12 (71)
Jaguar XJ12C (76)
Re: Engine tune up - rolling road and carb
This is possibly a dumb question, but I'll ask away and embarrass myself ...
When checking / setting the timing, at what rpm does one do this? Is the 5-7mm (or 2mm) before TDC done at idle (and if so what rpm is that?), or at 4,000 rpm.Or at some other speed?
TIA
When checking / setting the timing, at what rpm does one do this? Is the 5-7mm (or 2mm) before TDC done at idle (and if so what rpm is that?), or at 4,000 rpm.Or at some other speed?
TIA
Julian B
W Sussex, UK
| '62 Early Series I SWB | '72 Series II LWB |
| '56 Citroën Traction Avant |
W Sussex, UK
| '62 Early Series I SWB | '72 Series II LWB |
| '56 Citroën Traction Avant |
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AustHaflinger
- Posts: 2471
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2013 1:27 am
- Location: Canberra Australia
Re: Engine tune up - rolling road and carb
If you follow the procedure in the handbook the engine is not running at all. It is about turning the engine by hand and noting when the points open as indicated by spark at the spark plug or via a test lamp and noting that the crank pulley mark should be 0 to 2mm before the fan TDC mark.
So to specifically answer your question, the engine should not be running.
This is a real cumbersome way of timing and on my engine, marks have been placed on the fan housing at 5mm before and the engine is timed running at idle (the additional 3mm takes into account the engine running at idle) using a timing light. This equates to about 5 degrees BTDC at 800rpm.
Most petrol engines have a manufacturers settings of about 3 degrees BTDC at idle which is a compromise position. Most petrol engines can take up to about 10 degrees BTDC at idle before there are any issues.
Garry
So to specifically answer your question, the engine should not be running.
This is a real cumbersome way of timing and on my engine, marks have been placed on the fan housing at 5mm before and the engine is timed running at idle (the additional 3mm takes into account the engine running at idle) using a timing light. This equates to about 5 degrees BTDC at 800rpm.
Most petrol engines have a manufacturers settings of about 3 degrees BTDC at idle which is a compromise position. Most petrol engines can take up to about 10 degrees BTDC at idle before there are any issues.
Garry
Haflinger 700AP (73)
Range Rover Sport TDV6 (07)
Landrover FC 101 (77)
Landrover Series 1 SWB Station Wagon (57)
Landrover Series 1 SWB (57)
Jaguar E-type Roadster V12 (71)
Jaguar XJ12C (76)
Range Rover Sport TDV6 (07)
Landrover FC 101 (77)
Landrover Series 1 SWB Station Wagon (57)
Landrover Series 1 SWB (57)
Jaguar E-type Roadster V12 (71)
Jaguar XJ12C (76)
Re: Engine tune up - rolling road and carb
The engine produces the most power when a piston is on the downward stroke after compression. Igniting the spark as soon as the piston has passed TDC is the goal, but in practice you want the piston to already to be on the way down so the expanding gases are pushing against a surface that is moving away already or you get a "sudden" thump against the piston top.
The problem is that there is a time delay between igniting the spark and the petrol / air mixture catching fire and expanding. It also expands at an exponential rate, So you have to arrange for the spark to happen BEFORE TDC (i.e. the 5 - 7 mm) This allows the engine to start and run.
As you increase the engine revs towards MAX rpm, you have to make the spark start earlier and earlier. On the Haflinger the graph puts it at about 31 / 32 degrees max advance BTDC when at maximum RPM. This has to happen because the speed at which the crank shaft is rotating and therefore the speed at which the pistons are reaching TDC and changing direction and going down on the power stroke is so quick that if you had the same 5 - 7 mm advance the piston would be near the bottom of its stroke before the expanding ignited petrol / air mixture got anywhere near it...
Whilst the static ignition timing is fine for low RPM, wear in all the parts which make up the mechanical side of ignition timing can get in the way of providing accurate high RPM ignition timing. This is what you are hoping to solve by using the rolling road.
In my repair manual, there is a graph showing the ignition timing advance in relation to RPM, if you can get your engine to match or be close to that along with the correct carbeuration then you will have as near to factory perfect as is possible.
John
The problem is that there is a time delay between igniting the spark and the petrol / air mixture catching fire and expanding. It also expands at an exponential rate, So you have to arrange for the spark to happen BEFORE TDC (i.e. the 5 - 7 mm) This allows the engine to start and run.
As you increase the engine revs towards MAX rpm, you have to make the spark start earlier and earlier. On the Haflinger the graph puts it at about 31 / 32 degrees max advance BTDC when at maximum RPM. This has to happen because the speed at which the crank shaft is rotating and therefore the speed at which the pistons are reaching TDC and changing direction and going down on the power stroke is so quick that if you had the same 5 - 7 mm advance the piston would be near the bottom of its stroke before the expanding ignited petrol / air mixture got anywhere near it...
Whilst the static ignition timing is fine for low RPM, wear in all the parts which make up the mechanical side of ignition timing can get in the way of providing accurate high RPM ignition timing. This is what you are hoping to solve by using the rolling road.
In my repair manual, there is a graph showing the ignition timing advance in relation to RPM, if you can get your engine to match or be close to that along with the correct carbeuration then you will have as near to factory perfect as is possible.
John
Haflinger 703AP LWB 1973 - (Once owned by Lady Sutherland & Sons.) Now called "Lurch" !
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Re: Engine tune up - rolling road and carb
Just back from the rolling road, and so far I am very pleased with the results. A few days ago we had set the timing to ~5mm BTDC when static, and whilst it went OK at idle it was too many degrees advanced. They adjusted it back to ~20 deg at idle (I think he said), made the mixture slightly[/] richer at idle. Possibly due to a slack throttle return spring (new one on order) the throttle was not opening as fully as it should. But all in all they have managed to increase the horsepower at the rear wheels from 10hp to 11hp.
No idea whether 11 is what it should be or not, but the "real life" performance on the road is now SO much better. I can hold fourth gear for much longer when going up a hill, and the speed decays more slowly. This makes it much more usable and thus more pleasurable to drive. He said that the carb jets are fine (as evidenced by the mixture being OK).
Much of the technicalities are above me, but so long as it doesn't blow up in a few miles I'll be more than happy
No idea whether 11 is what it should be or not, but the "real life" performance on the road is now SO much better. I can hold fourth gear for much longer when going up a hill, and the speed decays more slowly. This makes it much more usable and thus more pleasurable to drive. He said that the carb jets are fine (as evidenced by the mixture being OK).
Much of the technicalities are above me, but so long as it doesn't blow up in a few miles I'll be more than happy
Julian B
W Sussex, UK
| '62 Early Series I SWB | '72 Series II LWB |
| '56 Citroën Traction Avant |
W Sussex, UK
| '62 Early Series I SWB | '72 Series II LWB |
| '56 Citroën Traction Avant |
-
pathfinder700ap
- Posts: 201
- Joined: Sun Dec 30, 2012 4:38 pm
- Location: Graz, Austria
Re: Engine tune up - rolling road and carb
Hi Julian,
how much Kilowatts is one hp? Is this "British horsepower"?
And regarding the ignition timing, how much is 20 deg in terms of mm on the pulley? I would estimate about 30 mm, which sounds a bit much...? Or did you mean 2 deg?
Kind regards,
Constantin
how much Kilowatts is one hp? Is this "British horsepower"?
And regarding the ignition timing, how much is 20 deg in terms of mm on the pulley? I would estimate about 30 mm, which sounds a bit much...? Or did you mean 2 deg?
Kind regards,
Constantin
Re: Engine tune up - rolling road and carb
Hi Constantin,
1 horsepower is (AIUI) about 0.75kilowatts. I don't have the manuals with me this evening (they are up in my office), but I seem to remember that the handbook says that the engine produces 21 horsepower. But that will be at the crankshaft(?), and not at the wheels. Does 11hp sound wrong to you?
The "20" can be compared to the numbers on the graph in the back of the Repair Manual (which go up to 30???), and I think that they are degrees BTDC but I may be wrong; again, I don't have the books to hand, but can check them tomorrow.
Julian
1 horsepower is (AIUI) about 0.75kilowatts. I don't have the manuals with me this evening (they are up in my office), but I seem to remember that the handbook says that the engine produces 21 horsepower. But that will be at the crankshaft(?), and not at the wheels. Does 11hp sound wrong to you?
The "20" can be compared to the numbers on the graph in the back of the Repair Manual (which go up to 30???), and I think that they are degrees BTDC but I may be wrong; again, I don't have the books to hand, but can check them tomorrow.
Julian
Julian B
W Sussex, UK
| '62 Early Series I SWB | '72 Series II LWB |
| '56 Citroën Traction Avant |
W Sussex, UK
| '62 Early Series I SWB | '72 Series II LWB |
| '56 Citroën Traction Avant |
-
pathfinder700ap
- Posts: 201
- Joined: Sun Dec 30, 2012 4:38 pm
- Location: Graz, Austria
Re: Engine tune up - rolling road and carb
Hi Julian,
if 1 hp is about .75 kW, then it's also the same horsepower that we use over here. Yes, the 22 horsepower of the Haflinger are surely measured at the flywheel. Losing about half of the power in the drivetrain sounds a bit much to me, but on the other hand I don't really have any experience with that. Also, I don't know at which operating point the power of your Haflinger was measured. The 22 hp will be reached only at full throttle and max rpm.
Regarding the the ignition timing, I just wondered why there would be such a large advance of 20 deg at idle (according to your earlier post).
Kind regards,
Constantin
if 1 hp is about .75 kW, then it's also the same horsepower that we use over here. Yes, the 22 horsepower of the Haflinger are surely measured at the flywheel. Losing about half of the power in the drivetrain sounds a bit much to me, but on the other hand I don't really have any experience with that. Also, I don't know at which operating point the power of your Haflinger was measured. The 22 hp will be reached only at full throttle and max rpm.
Regarding the the ignition timing, I just wondered why there would be such a large advance of 20 deg at idle (according to your earlier post).
Kind regards,
Constantin
Re: Engine tune up - rolling road and carb
I agree 1 HP does not sound an awful lot but it can and obviously does on Julian's Haflinger make a big difference to the way it feels when driving on the road.
I am also not sure about the 20 Degree number being used. The graph in my repair manual showing advance makes the advance even at 1000 rpm as being 8 degrees. 20 degrees would be at 2700 to 2900 rpm which is a good way off idle. The graph does show that there could be a fair amount of lea-way as it could also have 20 degrees at 3600 rpm! (That's if I am reading the graph correctly and it is always possible I am not)!
Julian, How long did the tuning take? Did they use a gas analyzer like Gary's place did? Did you get a power graph print out? I think all of us are interested in the out come of these "excursions" into tuning as we all want more power!!
I think I'll have another go at tuning Lurch when I have replaced the failed near side front steering ball joint. I need to borrow one of those "Colour Tune" kits from a friend which allows you to see the colour of the combustion flame. In theory, then you can alter the ignition timing and the petrol / air mixture to get the "blue-est" flame which equates to maximum combustion pressure.
John
I am also not sure about the 20 Degree number being used. The graph in my repair manual showing advance makes the advance even at 1000 rpm as being 8 degrees. 20 degrees would be at 2700 to 2900 rpm which is a good way off idle. The graph does show that there could be a fair amount of lea-way as it could also have 20 degrees at 3600 rpm! (That's if I am reading the graph correctly and it is always possible I am not)!
Julian, How long did the tuning take? Did they use a gas analyzer like Gary's place did? Did you get a power graph print out? I think all of us are interested in the out come of these "excursions" into tuning as we all want more power!!
I think I'll have another go at tuning Lurch when I have replaced the failed near side front steering ball joint. I need to borrow one of those "Colour Tune" kits from a friend which allows you to see the colour of the combustion flame. In theory, then you can alter the ignition timing and the petrol / air mixture to get the "blue-est" flame which equates to maximum combustion pressure.
John
Haflinger 703AP LWB 1973 - (Once owned by Lady Sutherland & Sons.) Now called "Lurch" !
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Re: Engine tune up - rolling road and carb
Sorry all, you are going to have to forgive me as much of this goes way over my head and I'll be the first to admit that I don't completely understand all of this. The guy referred to the graph at the back of the Repair Manual (Fig 8/III) and set the advance to 20 (or may be a bit more?) when it had been over 30 at high rpm. Before seeing the graph he was amazed that the engine was working at all, as he said that a Mini (for example) would have blown up with that amount of BTDC.
But I wasn't going to argue, all the more so as now it does seem to be going so much better. The next time I see John perhaps we can see what the current numbers are at various rpm?
The lack of horsepower at the wheels will presumably be down to either rolling resistance (something that I am aware of, but that is very gradually improving with every mile I drive post re-build), or lack of power at the flywheel. I haven't checked compressions, but perhaps this is something to do sometime?
He didn't give me a print out, but I didn't think to ask for one at the time. But, so long as it doesn't blow up any day soon, I am more than happy with the results (and the improvement).
But I wasn't going to argue, all the more so as now it does seem to be going so much better. The next time I see John perhaps we can see what the current numbers are at various rpm?
The lack of horsepower at the wheels will presumably be down to either rolling resistance (something that I am aware of, but that is very gradually improving with every mile I drive post re-build), or lack of power at the flywheel. I haven't checked compressions, but perhaps this is something to do sometime?
He didn't give me a print out, but I didn't think to ask for one at the time. But, so long as it doesn't blow up any day soon, I am more than happy with the results (and the improvement).
Julian B
W Sussex, UK
| '62 Early Series I SWB | '72 Series II LWB |
| '56 Citroën Traction Avant |
W Sussex, UK
| '62 Early Series I SWB | '72 Series II LWB |
| '56 Citroën Traction Avant |
Re: Engine tune up - rolling road and carb
Julian,
We can make our own version of the graph and see how it compares with the one in the manual. It will take two people to do, but should be possible and not take too long to put together. We could do both / all three at the time. It would just be a free rev'ing graph as opposed to one withe engine under load, but I still think it would be relevant.
Shame you didn't get a print out of how the power is produced.
Rolling resistance has got to be the main "consumer" of the missing horsepower! I can understand a fair few HP being needed to turn the gears in the hubs as they are straight cut and the amount of pressure you are supposed to put on the hub bearings to take out the play is quite high. I found it quite difficult to turn the hubs on front axle whilst I was working on them last year. Presumably, the power needed to turn the prop shaft as far as the front hub 4 wheel drive selector also requires a fair amount of effort.
I don't like the idea that it requires nearly 10 HP to turn the clutch, the gears in the gearbox, the differential, the prop shaft, the two drive shafts along with eh two sets of hub gears.
Has anyone attempted to "bump" start a Haflinger? I doubt you could push it fast enough to be able to, unless it was an engine that stars really well!
John
We can make our own version of the graph and see how it compares with the one in the manual. It will take two people to do, but should be possible and not take too long to put together. We could do both / all three at the time. It would just be a free rev'ing graph as opposed to one withe engine under load, but I still think it would be relevant.
Shame you didn't get a print out of how the power is produced.
Rolling resistance has got to be the main "consumer" of the missing horsepower! I can understand a fair few HP being needed to turn the gears in the hubs as they are straight cut and the amount of pressure you are supposed to put on the hub bearings to take out the play is quite high. I found it quite difficult to turn the hubs on front axle whilst I was working on them last year. Presumably, the power needed to turn the prop shaft as far as the front hub 4 wheel drive selector also requires a fair amount of effort.
I don't like the idea that it requires nearly 10 HP to turn the clutch, the gears in the gearbox, the differential, the prop shaft, the two drive shafts along with eh two sets of hub gears.
Has anyone attempted to "bump" start a Haflinger? I doubt you could push it fast enough to be able to, unless it was an engine that stars really well!
John
Haflinger 703AP LWB 1973 - (Once owned by Lady Sutherland & Sons.) Now called "Lurch" !
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Tennmogger
- Posts: 56
- Joined: Sun Apr 28, 2013 2:02 am
Re: Engine tune up - rolling road and carb
John, mine bump starts quite easily. Doing some chores along a sloped gravel road a few days ago, I wanted to save the Dynastarter and bump started a couple of times. I think I used fourth gear.
Any engine with provision for a hand crank 'better' be able to bump start!
Bob
Any engine with provision for a hand crank 'better' be able to bump start!
Bob
1952 Willys M-38, Unimogs from 1957, 1965, 1970, 1975, 1978, 1988, and a 1968 Haflinger NA bugeye!
Re: Engine tune up - rolling road and carb
Bob,
I have a challenge for you!
I would like to know how hard (how much effort) it is for you to push your Haflinger along when it is in neutral. So we need some thing like a spring balance that could be used to measure what it take to get it moving. Maybe a set of bath room scales and pushing on them to see what reading you get when it starts to move.
I know Lurch does not roll on a flat surface like my Smart car. I had Lurch on a weigh bridge the other weekend and after all the batteries were taken off it was weighed with just my rubbish still on / in it. The plate says 680 KG but I don't know if that is with or with out fuel etc. What I do know is that it had about 3/4 of a thank of Petrol and my rubbish and it weighed in at 820 KG.
My Smart car supposedly weighs 740 KG but I don't know if that is with fuel etc or not - either way they weigh about eh same but I can push my Smart car easily but can't push Lurch with the same ease!
I wonder if they are all so difficult to push or are some worse that others. If so what make the difference between them?
John
I have a challenge for you!
I would like to know how hard (how much effort) it is for you to push your Haflinger along when it is in neutral. So we need some thing like a spring balance that could be used to measure what it take to get it moving. Maybe a set of bath room scales and pushing on them to see what reading you get when it starts to move.
I know Lurch does not roll on a flat surface like my Smart car. I had Lurch on a weigh bridge the other weekend and after all the batteries were taken off it was weighed with just my rubbish still on / in it. The plate says 680 KG but I don't know if that is with or with out fuel etc. What I do know is that it had about 3/4 of a thank of Petrol and my rubbish and it weighed in at 820 KG.
My Smart car supposedly weighs 740 KG but I don't know if that is with fuel etc or not - either way they weigh about eh same but I can push my Smart car easily but can't push Lurch with the same ease!
I wonder if they are all so difficult to push or are some worse that others. If so what make the difference between them?
John
Haflinger 703AP LWB 1973 - (Once owned by Lady Sutherland & Sons.) Now called "Lurch" !
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Re: Engine tune up - rolling road and carb
Hand brake on Lurch releases properly, but again I will check it - really don't understand why it was made with an intermediate lever in the way.
Would have been just as easy at the design stage to have made it with one lever and still get the correct amount of movement and pressure on the shoes. Another SDP "technical solution, because we can".
John
Would have been just as easy at the design stage to have made it with one lever and still get the correct amount of movement and pressure on the shoes. Another SDP "technical solution, because we can".
John
Haflinger 703AP LWB 1973 - (Once owned by Lady Sutherland & Sons.) Now called "Lurch" !
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Tennmogger
- Posts: 56
- Joined: Sun Apr 28, 2013 2:02 am
Re: Engine tune up - rolling road and carb
Hi John,
Mine is hard to push too. I work on a concrete floor and I have to work to move it. But, outside on gravel it rolls easily. I think that points to the gravel allowing the contact surface to squirm, reducing tire friction.
I'd be glad to get some 'push' numbers. I don't think the number will mean much though because of variables like tire type, pressure, tread, and road surface differences.
Mine is hard to push too. I work on a concrete floor and I have to work to move it. But, outside on gravel it rolls easily. I think that points to the gravel allowing the contact surface to squirm, reducing tire friction.
I'd be glad to get some 'push' numbers. I don't think the number will mean much though because of variables like tire type, pressure, tread, and road surface differences.
1952 Willys M-38, Unimogs from 1957, 1965, 1970, 1975, 1978, 1988, and a 1968 Haflinger NA bugeye!