Stainless Exhaust Manifolds

[SAM]

Hi All

Has anyone got a source for SS exhaust manifolds? If not I am considering getting some made by a custom shop up here in QLD. I am going to get then made to the original spec (or close to) with pre-heat pipes.

Would anyone be interested in one? I reckon if I order a few it will be cheaper.

I also have an old oval muffler and I am going to get a price for those to in SS so if you would be interested in one of those let me know as well.

Not a cheap exercise but alternatives are scarce. A mild steel one is $500 and that will not last for ever.

If anyone is interested let me know. Or if anyone has a source please let me know an it will save me the trouble.

Thanks Chaps

Sam

[Julian B]

I have a stainless steel exhaust silencer box and tail pipe - the cylindrical, vertical type - on my Early Series I Haf; to be honest I can't recall wether I bought it or whether it was already fitted by the previous owner (unlikely), but if I bought it it would almost certainly have come from Haflinger Technic.

[bestill]

Hi there, I would be interested in one manifold in stainless steel. Let us know what it will cost Thanks Dave

[heinkeljb]

I doubt I can justify getting one even if my existing one has a hole in it. I think it is at a common failure place, just where one of the pre-heat tubes fits in the Carb mounting plate. (Zenith Carb).

If I can get a big enough blowtorch I could probably braze the hole up. Only misgiving I have about doing that is that the angle of the pipe / exhaust flange might change when the existing braze melts.

Put some prices up and I hope the exchange rate works in my favour!

John

[SAM]

Will do.

[StuartR]

Haflinger tecknik lists Stainless exhaust pipes etc,

[heinkeljb]

Exhaust pipes are not quite the same thing as the Carb manifold. Any idea what the SS exhaust pipes cost, don't forget that there are two sorts. I need the sort that has the heat exchangers.

John

[SAM]

Hi Stuart

I just asked Dale and he has none. I have no idea what a custom manifold will be but i will let you know as soon as I find out.

John do you mean the pre-heat pipes for the carburetor on the Manifold? Or is this for a cab heater?

Sam

[heinkeljb]

The pre-heat pipes for the carburetor on the Manifold.

Mine has developed a leak right in the gap between the two pipes on the right hand side of the carburetor mounting block.

Just to clarify things in case we are getting mixed up here about things to do with heat exchangers. The original post was to do with producing Stainless Steel Carburetor manifolds. The block on which the carburetor mounts is different depending on which carburetor you have fitted. I would need the sort for the Zenith 32 Carburetor.

Then there was a post to do with Stainless Steel exhaust pipes / silencers. There are two different sorts of exhaust pipes / silencers as one sort has a single silencer mounted vertically in front of the right hand cylinder firewall. The other sort has two heat exchangers, one on either side of the vehicle before going through a single pancake / flat silencer mounted under the right hand cylinder.

John

[heinkeljb]

I wonder how short you could make the exhaust pipes ad still have effective silencing? I was thinking if you didn't have the heat exchanger system, you could make a couple of short pipes which exit the cylinder heads and point straight back. They could go in to flat or round silencers and as long as they don't stick out below the engine sump guard they would be up out of the way.

Straight through silencers would improve the breathing of the engine. Only issue would be noise!

John

[AustHaflinger]

Mine has developed a leak right in the gap between the two pipes on the right hand side of the carburetor mounting block.

My new manifold had the same small hole from new - I ran the engine to warm the pipe up and put some muffler putty in the small hole and worked a treat.

I really do not think that the exhaust manifold needs to be stainless - really there is not much chance of it rusting out. Muffler and its pipes is a different issue though.

Also the carby preheater pipe is also a different matter - my old one was rusted out at the bends - I guess moisture from the exhaust collects there in the carbon and it is not hot enough to evaporate off.

garry

[heinkeljb]

I tried putting some exhaust paste / goo in the gap, slid a jubilee clip in there so try and provide some backing so the paste wouldn't be blown out whilst it cured.

It has reduced the size of the hole as the escaping exhaust gasses are lees than they were, but it is not really a long term fix. Would need to be brazed to make it a permanent repair. That means taking it off the engine, making some sort of jig to hold every thing in place where it is and then cleaning and brazing the joints.

I doubt my current blow torch could get it all hot enough to melt braze properly, so it will have to wait....

John

[Julian B]

John, you are welcome to pop up and use my oxy-acetylene kit any time. You'd need to bring the skills to use it though, as mine are definitely sub par.

[heinkeljb]

Thanks Julian for the offer, I'll definitely take you up on that at some point! Would probably have to stay for a week to do all the things that I would like to do;

Carb manifold, Hoops, leaking drive shaft, Dynastart / alternator conversion, oil cooler relocation, gearbox bearing(s), Rear seat lids, Rear seats, Front door skins - Oh and then there is the general rust removal and paint that is a Fourth Bridge issue. Start at one end and by the time you get to the other it is time to start at the beginning again!

John

[AustHaflinger]

Carb manifold, Hoops, leaking drive shaft, Dynastart / alternator conversion, oil cooler relocation, gearbox bearing(s), Rear seat lids, Rear seats, Front door skins - Oh and then there is the general rust removal and paint that is a Fourth Bridge issue. Start at one end and by the time you get to the other it is time to start at the beginning again!

John

You love it

[Bigdougal]

John,

Are you sure you talking about a Haflinger and not a 1970's Lancia. How can something so small have so much rust? God help the rest of us. Note to self; buy shares in Waxoil.

I have, I think, a complete exhaust system for a heat exchanger version ( I have ditched the heater and gone for simplicity) give me a day or two to muster the strength to enter the hanger and I will see what I have.

Starting to get cold down here.

[heinkeljb]

Your're right Gary, I do enjoy fixing things, just seem to be fixing the Haflinger more than other thing!

I will get round to all the things on my list (and more probably), but it takes time.

Like most people I suspect, I only get evenings and weekends when I am not doing other things in which to do things on Lurch. Also having to work outside is not nice when it is cold, wet and dark.

John

[heinkeljb]

Doug,

It's down to the fact it is meant to be a working vehicle and therefore subjected to abuse! All the stone chips (which you wouldn't get on a ordinary car) don't get treated and so turn in to rust patches. The seams on any thing made in the '70s are rust zones as they metal treatment was not high on the list of "features to make the vehicle sell".

I have kept the heating system on Lurch as it does actually make the cab warmer than the outside world when the flap valve is opened.

It would be a "body off" job to get at a lot of the rust places and at that point it would be worth getting all the paint removed so you could find and deal with the rust patches. I think you would then need marine grade paint and lots of layers of it to prevent stone chips from starting it all off again!

John

[Bigdougal]

John,

I was of course,talking in jest but I do know what you mean. I am so glad I took the platform off to do the rust, I was comvinced that any money spent anywhere else was a potential waste of money without first fixing what couldn't be seen.