Another OIL thread! No, it's not what you think!

[heinkeljb]

The UK and particularly the south east does not get very cold in comparison to some other parts of the world, but temperatures do go down in general to single figures and occasional minus figures during winter.

So recently we have had temperatures in the high single figure and the day I woke up to minus 5!

I have currently got SAE30 oil in Lurch, but have noticed that the engine struggles to turn over when the temperature is in the lower single figure region.

Should I switch to SAE20? I am sure this would help with the difficult starting, but how high can the ambient temperature go before the Haflinger engine complains it is too hot and seizes?

We can have the low single figure temperatures in the morning of one day and then a few days later by mid afternoon high single / low double figure temperatures! So I don't want try second guessing the weather to the extent of doing an oil change every few days /weeks. (This is why they made multigrades! As far as I am aware, multigrades are frowned on in Haflinger engine)

Any body got any suggestions?

John

[kerry460]

i have only used multigrade .
never had a problem .
cheers
kerry

[AustHaflinger]

20W40 works fine here in Canberra - down to -5/-10°C in winter and +45°C in summer (though only about 35 this year) and my engine runs the same though I definitely do not load the engine up in summer and am always mindful it is an aircooled engine on hot summer days.

Garry

[jhon]

Hi John - I use 10-40W in mine; we're getting the cold days here in Scotland too - no problems with turning the engine over.

Maybe you need a newer/larger battery?

[heinkeljb]

Battery was new last year, but I think the Dynastart brushes / commutator need some TLC. Works perfectly well once the engine is warm, it's just the first start after sitting outside all night that's a bit difficult at the moment.

I had though 10W40 would be the way to go, but stuck with the straight oils going from SAE40 during the summer to SAE30 just about October time last year.

Handbook (Operating Instructions book) states for winter driving to go to SAE10 for the clod winter months - I am guessing they are talking about central Europe where it would probably be minus single digit weather for several months rather than the South East of England where low single figures are more normal!

Maybe I should try to find some SAE20....

John

[Goatwerks]

Try cleaning the body ground(earth) wire connection first.

[heinkeljb]

I have cleaned and refitted the battery to body connection, but I must admit I haven't done the body to engine one. Partly because it looks like it has at some point in its past been done as there are two earth straps, but they go to the same point on the body so maybe that isn't as clean as it could be.

I'll have those cables off and give the mounting points a clean, thanks Jim.

John

[Slantback60]

Biggest slow starting improvement I made was adding (the formerly missing) earth straps that go from the Dynastarter to the body. Before: Push button and hope that eventually the engine would start turning over. After: Instant cranking once the button is pushed! My poor Dynastarter was having to ground out via the tiny regulator wiring sleeve grounds. I didn't know I was missing that large ground until I looked at a friend's engine... "Hey! I don't have a ground strap there!!" *Facepalm* I bought a stainless steel ground strap from my local autoparts store.

[heinkeljb]

Next time I try to start Lurch, I'll find the jump leads and stick one from the Dynastart tot he body as a temporary trail! It's just not nice out side in an evening at the moment, cold, wet and dark!

Thanks,

John

[Bigdougal]

Morning all,

Where exactly in the dynastarter should the earth strap go to? The same point as for the existing small earth?

[kerry460]

Morning all,

Where exactly in the dynastarter should the earth strap go to? The same point as for the existing small earth?

memory , it bolts on with a 6 or 7 mm hex head bolt , but it also has a slot for a screwdriver .
it is a threaded hole in the main body , with a slight machined recess around the threaded hole .

kerry

[Bigdougal]

Thanks Kerry,

Is there a recommended size (diameter) for the earth strap/ cable)?

Also if you still have the two cabin hood bars that you had I am still interested. I will be in Sydney in early April so would get you to post to an address there.

Cheers

[kerry460]

G,,day

from memory
earth straps , a pair of flat braided ones . the ends are hard soldered or brazed and a hole drilled through
one on top of the other , unsheathed .
and they fit through a slot in the air shroud .

sorry , the two hood bars are gone

kerry

[Julian B]

Maybe I should try to find some SAE20....

Hi John - I have been using this 20W50 for a while now, and it seems to work OK for me. http://www.morrislubricantsonline.co.uk ... r-oil.html

But I'd be interested to hear if I am doing the wrong thing. (I used to use Castrol GTX which IIRC is 10W40.)

[heinkeljb]

Thought i would up date this with some good news.

I removed both engine earth straps, the one to the bodywork tang just below the coil had obviously never been removed before. Took a while with lots of penetrating oil to get the bolt to come off without shearing

Cleaned all the relevant surfaces back to bright metal. Reconnected the earth strap and starting is much improved. I have to qualify that with the fact the ambient temperature has gone up a bit, so it might not be entirely down to better earth return, but it certainly helps so is a worth while bit of routine maintenance.

John

[AustHaflinger]

Cleaned all the relevant surfaces back to bright metal.

John

From what I remember when I lived in your fair country that bright metal = rust next week. Maybe you need to spray the metal with that blue stuff they put on battery terminals to stop corrosion before bolting it all together permantly.

Garry

[heinkeljb]

Ok, so I forgot to say that after the bits were back together I smothered the whole nut / bolt joint with CopperEase grease which although will be come a strange goo when it get all the dust etc accumulating on it, should keep the contact surfaces making good electrical contact and not turning into rust patches.

It was also done of what was to all intents and purposes a dry day - with a light wind, so should not have been too damp, so hopefully no rust forming under all the CopperEase!

John