Low compression

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AustHaflinger
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Re: Low compression

Post by AustHaflinger »

Engine is now back together - .5mm off the outer piston crown to ensure no touching of the head and will lower compression just a little.

Engine is back in - certainly more time consuming than taking out. I bought new MB carb spacers but they are 8mm thick unlike the Haff 4mm, so I sanded them down to 4mm bit still used the Haff soft gaskets in case there were any hih or low spots but they looked fine.

Fired the engine up this afternoon and there are no unusual noises, in particular no clacking like it did before. Like before it will not idle properly and when hot is difficult to start so there is more to look at in ignition and carb. I was going to set the idle mixture as per the book but it was too hard to do because idle was everywhere and would often stall halfway through the process - so I just set the screws 1 1/4 turns out which was about where it was before - on that setting the idle is a lot better and will stay at that level until I get most other things sorted.

I haven't reset the ignition timing but checking it, it is at 4 degrees BDTC - considerably less than the specified 7 degree BTDC. With the 95/98 Octane fuel I will be using in the future I will probably put is back to about 6 degrees and when the replaced cylinder is run back in put it on the dyno and check hi revs timing and mixture. The detonation experienced was most likely caused by issues in one or the other but I do not want to check this until I have covered about 1000km with revs limited to about 3500rpm so that the engine has settles back in.

Haven't driven it yet and will probably do that tomorrow.

So that is the update.

Garry
Haflinger 700AP (73)
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AustHaflinger
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Re: Low compression

Post by AustHaflinger »

Curiosity got the better of me and I took it for a drive around the block a few times - only got up to 50kph and the engine ran very smooth and quietly - no clacking. I live at the top of a hill and there was certainly plenty of power at low revs to get back home. The engine stalled as soon as I got back in the garage so I still have that idle issue but I will let a tuning expert look at that for me.

I will put the bottom covers and the rear engine door back on and start using it again just in time for winter :( .

Thanks for all the advice and comments.

Cheers

Garry
Haflinger 700AP (73)
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heinkeljb
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Re: Low compression

Post by heinkeljb »

Gary,

Did you put in new spark plugs? If you did, whip them out and have a have a look at them. That will give you a pretty good idea of how things are going. You used to be able to by a kit called "colour tune" which was basically a special spark plug with a clear glass ring through which you could see the combustion chamber. That would tell whether the combustion was running with a yellow flame or a a blue flame (Rich or weak or correct)

Did you move things in relation to the clutch to get rid of your "clack"? Seems a bit strange for it just to disappear... :o

As soon as it has been to the Tuner / Dyno you can put in the back of the back of the garage and get on with other things, except ,,,, Now that is running you will want to use it to go out and about again! :lol:

Anyway, well done for persevering and finishing the rebuild rather than leaving it with the broken engine, putting it at the back of the garage for the next ten years and then thinking - why don't I use the Haflnger? Oh yes, it has got a broken engine I have to fix at some point......... (never).

John
Haflinger 703AP LWB 1973 - (Once owned by Lady Sutherland & Sons.) Now called "Lurch" !

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heinkeljb
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Re: Low compression

Post by heinkeljb »

Bad idle is either blocked jets, or air leaks. Unlikely to be timing it it starts unless it dies suddenly when the revs get down to idle level. If it just fades away then usually fuel issue. If it hunts then air leak.

I have had issues with blocked jets even with two fuel filter one after the other. First one definitely had it of tank sealant in it (glass bowl version), second one is a throw away sealed version so you can't see what it has stopped. Every once in a while the engine runs badly and pulling the choke out helps - classic blocked jets. Take the cover off, take out each jet in turn, blow them clean with a blast from a compressed air can (don't you have one of those in your tool box?) Put it all back together and it runs fine again.

So try getting you idle to even out using the choke - if you can, then that points to a fuel issue. Did you put your blanking plate back in?

John
Haflinger 703AP LWB 1973 - (Once owned by Lady Sutherland & Sons.) Now called "Lurch" !

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AustHaflinger
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Re: Low compression

Post by AustHaflinger »

Hi John.

Yes I did put the new plugs in - I want to see what the compression is now so I will need to take them out then so I will check then. The old were were a bit sooty so certainly at lower revs things may be a little rich. Engine has always started cold without choke (starts better with choke though but has to be taken off as soon as the engine starts).

You are confusing the noise in the gearbox with the clack in the engine - the clack was loud last year but has been reducing - on pulling the pistons out this time around it was clear they had been touching the head so 1/2mm was taken off the piston crowns to provide clearance which has happened.

The inside of the outer head combustion chamber is not flat - there is a circular indent that the top of the cylinder liner sits in. It is created by the outer edge of the combustion chamber and a lip about 2mm wide about 2mm in and I believe the original engine builder and the guy who more recently did the work on my engine did not take this into account in setting up the pistons so the piston crowns were kissing the head - hence the clack.

I agree with your logic about the carby jets and poor idle but they have been in and out so many times and the filters have all been clear. As previously mentioned it idles fine when cold but has problems when hot - I will leave it to the tuner to sort.

My Landrover club is doing a 2400km (1500m) trip at the end of next month in 50s vehicles and I was going to take the Haffie but I am not prepared to risk it due to its lack of reliability so will take my big truck - the 101.

I am somewhat envious that you have the courage to drive to the Netherlands (even though a lot is over water).

Anyway - it is up and running and hopefully s the bugs are sorted reliability will return.

Cheers

Garry
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heinkeljb
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Re: Low compression

Post by heinkeljb »

A "lot is over water" ?

The channel is only 22 miles wide and even if the ferry goes up the coast a bit it only removes about 50 miles from the overall distance. I'll post the actual distance after the event.

Should be good long weekend.

John
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AustHaflinger
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Re: Low compression

Post by AustHaflinger »

Now driving around and went down to the garage to fill up with 98 Octane. Then ducked around to the shops and faced the usual barrage of questions, "what is it", "where is it from", "where was it made", "does it float". I must admit maybe I am getting grumpy in my old age but my tolerance for these well meaning individuals is beginning to wane. I have it also with my 101 where I get a lot of "bogans" wanting to know what V8 I have in it.

These days I am courteous enough to politely answer their questions but only respond to if asked directly - I guess it is all part of owning unusual vehicles.

Anyway - the Haffie is back on the road. I have covered about 50km so far and seems to be running Ok. I am limiting it to 3500rpm for the moment but is difficult with a big gap in ratios between 4th and 5th as when you change down to 4th normally revs are up above 4000rpm (40kph) so am watching that.

Accu-Spark have advised they are getting more electronic rev limiters back in stock tomorrow so I think that I will get one fitted as I do not have the mechanical unit. In the past I have found my engine is able to pull past redline (4800rpm) in lower gears but not so in top on the flat, though it will do so if going downhill.

Fingers crossed development issues are now complete. Once the new barrel and piston have been run in I will retorque the head, reset the tappets and head of for the dyno to check mixtures and ignition timing at revs above 4000 to ensure detonation is not happening though 98 octane fuel and the slightly lower compression ration should assist with this.

Cheers

Garry
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heinkeljb
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Re: Low compression

Post by heinkeljb »

Gary,

We need to make up a leaflet with the questions people ask and the appropriate answers - then you could just hand out a leaflet when you don't feel like explaining things! 8-)

Would need to start a new thread or it will take your engine rebuild off topic :lol: :lol:

John
Haflinger 703AP LWB 1973 - (Once owned by Lady Sutherland & Sons.) Now called "Lurch" !

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AustHaflinger
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Re: Low compression

Post by AustHaflinger »

Well I guess this thread is now closed - if there are other issues like another cracked piston I will need to start a new thread. (can't have too many threads on engine issues)

I bought a flashing orange LED light fitting today - I noticed yesterday that a lot of cars coming up behind me did not appreciate how slow I was going - my local roads are all 80 or 100kph so the traffic is going a lot faster than me - the orange flashing light on the back should alert them to a slow vehicle ahead. It is magnetic and plugs into a cig lighter and it can be set to just flashing or mimic a rotating beacon.
Haflinger 700AP (73)
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kerry460
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Re: Low compression

Post by kerry460 »

52526ac1b1a11b98476b4804d13335b6bf907d26.jpg
maybe you need this sticker
ex Tasmanian Haflinger agent .
1984 G Wagen 300GD auto
kerry460
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Re: Low compression

Post by kerry460 »

my first effort of posting a photo on here , a very steep self education curve lately .
still getting there

kerry
ex Tasmanian Haflinger agent .
1984 G Wagen 300GD auto
jhon
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Re: Low compression

Post by jhon »

Well done on the rebuild Garry, and fingers crossed that it continues to work out for you!
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AustHaflinger
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Re: Low compression

Post by AustHaflinger »

Thanks for the sticker :)

I am certainly hopeful that all is now well but with time, we will see.

Cheers

Garry
Haflinger 700AP (73)
Range Rover Sport TDV6 (07)
Landrover FC 101 (77)
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heinkeljb
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Re: Low compression

Post by heinkeljb »

There are regulations here in the UK about the use of flashing lights on "moving" vehicles. Orange flashing lights being ones which "civilians" can use - only for vehicles travelling less than 30 MPH so most tractors, bin lorries when actually doing collections, wide loads (but they have other rules which mean they have the flashing lights on all the time)

I have a rotating orange beacon along the same lines which I have instead of "hazard lights" as Lurch does not have the required relay fitted. (Another thing on the list of things to do).

John
Haflinger 703AP LWB 1973 - (Once owned by Lady Sutherland & Sons.) Now called "Lurch" !

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AustHaflinger
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Re: Low compression

Post by AustHaflinger »

We have similar regulations without the speed restrictions - used to highlight a danger of some sort - like a Haflinger doing 60kph on the highway when all the other cars are doing over 110kph.

I am going to have it switchable from the cabin so it will only be on when I feel vulnerable like when being tailgated by a 30m 70 tonne B double wanting to do 120kph behind an 60kph Haffie - its a jungle out there :?
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AustHaflinger
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Re: Low compression

Post by AustHaflinger »

Just an update on this issue.

Since I fixed the engine I have now covered 700km albiet during winter so the engine does not get hot. No real issues at all - cruises at 4000rpm at 70kph and in 5th been up to 4500 rpm which is 80kph so well less than the redline of 4800-5200rpm (based on the handbook range for the governor to kick in). I did see 4800rpm in 4th gear when going up hill so high revs are more likely in lower gears - I do need to fit the the electronic governor.

Engine starts immediately even on -5c degree mornings and hates the choke. The engine is quiet so the modifications I made to the pistons have got rid of the clack clack I previously had. I will wait until I have done 1000km to redo head bolts and tappets etc. With the modified pistons there is a little less compression and it does show a little when going uphill in 5th but overall is not really noticeable - particularly as a standard Haffie will not go up any hills in 5th :lol:

So - so far so good - I am using the vehicle about once a week as it is quiet cold (the highway between Canberra and Sydney was closed by snow last week) so I am waiting for the warm weather to return and get more use.

Everything else seems to be going well as well, though the gearbox, diffs and hubs are noisy when first driving off due to the cold but quiet down once the oil gets a bit of warmth into it.

Garry
Haflinger 700AP (73)
Range Rover Sport TDV6 (07)
Landrover FC 101 (77)
Landrover Series 1 SWB Station Wagon (57)
Landrover Series 1 SWB (57)
Jaguar E-type Roadster V12 (71)
Jaguar XJ12C (76)
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