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Also found out the block is from a Puch 500d

Does it also have the 70 mm pistons? Or was the engine retrofitted with larger bore cylinders?

80mm on this. Eric from the puch 500 forum said the 500 block is easily built into a 650, and that's what was done with this one.

Just need to top off oil, triple check connections, and I think I'll have time tomorrow to light it off. Then the cleaning continues. If I'm lucky it'll be on the rolling under it's own power this weekend!

Looks as if it is coming together very nicely.

Well done!

Post a video somewhere of it running and driving - always nice to see a new one driving around!

John

Yes, looking good, congrats on your progress!

I notice that you don't have the governor fitted - are you planning running without one or going with an alternative?

Thanks for the comments, I'll post up a vid once it's up and running.

Jhon - I bought it without the governor, so I've never gotten used to one. I run it by ear, but I'm not in the habit of pushing limitations either, I'm well out of that age group

The Invacar engines also were not fitted with governor.
I thought initially that from the photo it was one from that application.
They were also 500 cc, believe some were unofficially converted to 650 using Haflinger parts.
One of the ones I have recently stripped has the late type spin on oil filter and later cam.

StuartR wrote:The Invacar engines also were not fitted with governor.
I thought initially that from the photo it was one from that application.
They were also 500 cc, believe some were unofficially converted to 650 using Haflinger parts.
One of the ones I have recently stripped has the late type spin on oil filter and later cam.

Very interesting, I'll have to look into that bit of history. Thanks for posting the info!

Photo of one
and one of the clutch end, this was a centrifugal type

All back in, looks great....and doesn't want to turn over. LOL.

Pulling dynastarter now, checking brushes and continuity. Hopefully that's what it is from sitting for so long. In any case, can't hurt to check brushes, etc. That'll be one thing eliminated.

Does the engine turn over by hand? Is it very stiff?

Would have been quick to take the belts off and see if the Dynastart turned over without the engine load on it. That's not really a conclusive test as it might turn over but have no power, but at least it would give you an idea of whether the Dynastart is basically sound.
They can suffer from overheated solder joint to the coils which mean they then don't produce all the power they should due to high resistance joints.

If you had the starting handle you could try getting it to run using that - just remember it uses the fan on the Dynastart to provide cooling for the cylinders so don't run it for too long with out the Dynastart / Fan in place and turning. You could also try bump / tow starting it, just to see if it runs!!

John

Engine turns over just fine, I'm pretty sure it's the starter solenoid contacts. Dynastarter brushes test out fine, and when I spin it by hand it registers a bit of voltage production on the meter.

I manufactured new battery cables, except for one that I re-used.

I'll break down the solenoid today and see what it looks like, but I'm sure it hasn't been touched since 1963.

If your Solenoid doesn't go "Clack" when you apply power to the energising coil, then probably the grease internally has dried up and is causing it to stick. Unsolder the energising coil terminals, one is a tag you can connect a wire to, the other is just a earth terminal. I did a "how to" which is here:- http://www.haflingerandpinzgauerclubuk. ... oid#Item_2

Might provide some help.

John

Thanks John,

Definitely got a good clack out of it, so it's engaging well. Right now I'm waiting for a sealant to tack out, but this is what I found...




Not absolutely horrible, but definitely needed a touch up.

After the battle:



Time for a bit of food, then I'll slap it back together and see what happens. The other issue might be that I used the original positive battery cable instead of replacing it. If this solenoid fix doesn't make a difference, then I'll be making a new cable, the old one definitely had some corrosion on it, but I thought I could get by.....we'll see.

LOL, magic smoke came out of dynastarter.

That's probably not good, eh?

Time to tear that down, the positive starter post was somewhat loose and I'm thinking that a short happened.

I did find a dynastarter rebuild article from an Isetta guy, I'll have to dig through that and see if it's any help. Or does anyone have an dynastarter shop manual, or rebuild manual? It's not like these are complex motors....but age will eventually start to affect stuff. Plus ham handed shadetree mechanics too!

Usual scenario is that the engine wants to stop in a particular place every time, (compression on last run etc). This makes the Dynastart stop in one of two places. Every time you start, there is a spark, over time this erodes the brushes and the commutator.
You now have a couple of high resistance sections on the commutator, causing more sparks! So it goes on, Eventually it erodes the commutator out of round, then the brushes don't make proper contact and you get poor starting and charging. At this point, it can stick as it doesn't have enough torque to turn the engine, you keep the current flowing in the hopes it will start, then things start getting hot. Magic smoke can appear!!

What has probably happened is the varnish on one of the coils has burnt off causing a short inside a winding. You can buy new windings and with a good high power soldering iron, unsolder all the connections (making a note of where they all go). Replace with new windings and then get the commutator skimmed to make it round again. If you are unlucky, then the commutator will need to be re-wound...

I handed my Dynastart to a commercial firm to re-condition, Yes it was expensive, but they had to fix the thread on the end (which I mangled whilst changing the dynastart on a trip to Holland) and re-wind the commutator to make a new surface for the new brushes!

John