TheHaflinger.com

My engine is from 1973 so should have the modern screw on oil filter like most modern cars. However it has the older style oil filter that goes inside an outer shell and is screwed down via fitting at the top screwing to a long stud up the center.

Can the old style arrangement be upgraded to the new arrangement without major disassembly of the engine?

Thanks

Garry

Hi Garry, If my memory serves me right I can remember changing the oil filter casting over from the old type to the new type on one of the Haflingers we had when I lived in the Uk, it was just a matter of removing the casting fixing bolts and changing it over. The only problem is finding the newer type oil filter casting. I had it given by Andrew Davidson who purchased all the navy haflinger parts, unfortunately Andrew died around 1/2 years ago but I dont know what happened to all the parts, I do know he had a barn full of parts scattered all over the floor.

Dave

Gary,

As said, the oil filter unit is a casting which you can take off, you will need to remove the lower engine hatch, and cross member along with the associated tin ware that goes along that part of the engine.
If you are in need, I think I have one on an old engine half casing. It would need a proper clean, preferably with an ultrasonic bath / vapour blasting. You really don't want any dirt going in that part of the engine!

John

Thanks for that - so it is doable without taking the engine out.

My engine is the correct one for my chassis but as well all know all that means is that the casing is correct. When I bought my vehicle it cam with the remains of a much older engine - casings, barrels and heads minus crank and cam. I suspect that my original engine has failed at some stage and I was rebuilt using the innards of the old engine - I have an early cam not the No5, the early oil filter and early oil filler - so maybe the crank is an older one as well.

So maybe the correct housing is in amongst all the crap I have. If I have no luck, John I might get back to you to discuss futher.

Thanks

Garry

One of my father's Haflinger was made in 1973 too and still has the old oil filter type. I think that the changeover to the screw-on type was during 1973. Your Haf was built only 59 VINs later, so it might well be that yours also still had the old oil filter type.

Kind regards, C.

Oh OK thanks for that - I thought the changeover was a bit earlier but you would be the person to know . Do you think the changeover would have been VIN based or engine number based?

For my part I am just looking for an easier process to change oil filters over as mine leaks a little even with new seals.

Cheers

Garry

G,,day
i do have a late spin on oil filter body ,
let me know if interested .
i have lost your phone number .

kerry

Thanks Kerry - just investigating at this stage - i haven't had a chance to check my own stuff out yet.

Garry

The 500cc invacar engines I have (3) all have the later spin on oil filter housings and the engine that gets built will have one on it.

So I'll be OK!

What oil filter do I buy for my car? I that copper tubing all original? I haven't seen another Haflinger engine for 47 years!!

Have a look in the Documentation section for comparable oil filters.

I have not seen the brass tube you have before - but that is not to say it shouldn't be there!

wojo12 wrote:What oil filter do I buy for my car? I that copper tubing all original? I haven't seen another Haflinger engine for 47 years!!

In Aust buy a Ryco r2008p oil filter - about $17-$20. Do not buy the knock-offs on Ebay aust as they are more expensive and a rip off.

That copper stuff and its access to the filter housing is not original - I assume the modification is some sort of oil pressure pickup - do you have an mechanical oil pressure gauge?? I have a simple electric oil pressure sensor and and mechanical gauge with plastic tube - no copper pipes to fracture.

It must be a pain changing your oil filter with all that extra plumbing.

Here is mine - you just unscrew the nut and the top and pull the red cover off - noting the seal and spring arrangement inside. Also not the red cover has nothing extra on it like yours and my oil pressure senders are to the right - you see the light sender and just make out the plastic tube.

Garry

garrycol wrote:

wojo12 wrote:What oil filter do I buy for my car? I that copper tubing all original? I haven't seen another Haflinger engine for 47 years!!

In Aust buy a Ryco r2008p oil filter - about $17-$20. Do not buy the knock-offs on Ebay aust as they are more expensive and a rip off.

That copper stuff and its access to the filter housing is not original - I assume the modification is some sort of oil pressure pickup - do you have an mechanical oil pressure gauge?? I have a simple electric oil pressure sensor and and mechanical gauge with plastic tube - no copper pipes to fracture.

It must be a pain changing your oil filter with all that extra plumbing.

Here is mine - you just unscrew the nut and the top and pull the red cover off - noting the seal and spring arrangement inside. Also not the red cover has nothing extra on it like yours and my oil pressure senders are to the right - you see the light sender and just make out the plastic tube.

The attachment IMG_20181213_202741.jpg is no longer available

Garry

Mine has oil pressure and engine temp - don't know yet whether mechanical or electric. One of each of those copper oil lines goes to each head. The car also has an electric fuel pump, but no governor or tacho.

As you have a temp gauge - that copper contraption I think is a dual pickup for oil pressure to the oil pressure gauge and oil temperature to the temp gauge. the oil pressure light will have a simple electrical pressure sender somewhere.

garrycol wrote:As you have a temp gauge - that copper contraption I think is a dual pickup for oil pressure to the oil pressure gauge and oil temperature to the temp gauge. the oil pressure light will have a simple electrical pressure sender somewhere.

Those oil lines go each cylinder barrel/head.

Ok - not sure why that would be - unless there is some internal issue in the engine that does not allow the valve gear to be lubricated as normal.

I think it might be a “perceived” engine issue as the valve gear on. Standard engine is splash lubricated and if the engine has previously suffered a failure that was attributed to lack of lubrication then a “solution” might have been sort.

Can you try and take some more pictures showing the copper pipe route / termination on the cylinder heads for us?

If you have both an oil pressure and temperature gauge, these would also be “ additional” items installed by previous owner(s). The little round cylinder (50cm by 50cm) next to you oil filter will be the oil pressure sender - looks like it has an electric cable going to the front to the oil pressure gauge. There should be a smaller sensor also plumbed into the oil supply system to give you temperature. I also assume you still have the standard “no” oil pressure switch which comes on when you turn the ignition on but goes off when the engine is running?

I agre with Gary that having that copper pipe union on the oil filter hoisting must make changing the oil filter more of a job than it would be with the original engine setup.

A similar setup is done for the racing TR650 engines, but I think they have a different oil take off point. So if you can live with the extra work required to do an oil change then there is no reason to change it.

John

heinkeljb wrote:

Can you try and take some more pictures showing the copper pipe route / termination on the cylinder heads for us?

John

Here is a photo.

ps I realise of course that the dashboard is not original. I cannot for the life of my work out why you would need 5 or 6 switches IN ADDITION to the headlight and wiper switches!!! As you can see marked, one I have discovered is to tuen off the non-standard electrci fuel pump, either for additional anti-theft measure of maybe in case of fire!!

Keep on Haffing

John W

I cannot understand how that really works and the oil would drip in the top and just run back to the sump via the return pipe on the bottom of the rocker cover - the OEM system works by the oil being carried up to the rocker via the pushrods and then is forced through the the moving surfaces - I have run my engine with the rockers off it the oil comes out under quite a bit of pressure and oozes out where it should.

I guess the pipe work you have is placed so that the oil drips onto the rocker gear getting into the moving surfaces and then out the bottom - in the rocker is there a branch to either tappet - like the oil filter I can see it being a bit of a pain getting the rocker off to adjust the tappets and then put it all back together so there are no oil leaks from all the unions. Is it in fact not a "lubrication" function but a cooling function to get more "cool" oil to the top of the heads to help cool them??

Now I would not go pulling all that stuff off yet but I would try and research why it is there. Logic says there was a problem or at least a perceived problem that it is there to correct.

When you have to major work on your engine, it will be then that you should decide on whether to keep it or remove.

Garry

When you finally have to adjust the tappets and have to take the rocker covers off. You will be able to see the oil pipe opening. Then you will be able to tell if the oil is just pumped in and just “flows” over the rocker gear or it has a fan shaped reducer to “spray” oil inside the rocker cover.
The spray version would suggest it is there to provide cooling and a “dribble” type depending on where it is aimed would be to provide extra lubrications and cooling as a side effect.

Can you contact previous owners to ask if they installed it and why?

John