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PostPosted: Tue Oct 10, 2017 9:09 am 
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Joined: Mon Sep 11, 2017 12:33 pm
Posts: 5
Location: Maidenhead, Berkshire, UK
Hello,

any advice on following gratefully received ...

1) Replacing the oil seals on each end of the crankshaft (can this be done without taking the engine apart ?)
2) Removing the fan pulleys off the crankshaft
3) Removing the flywheel
4) Anything else I need to do to replace the seals

Thanks

Roger


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 10, 2017 9:16 am 
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Joined: Sun Dec 30, 2012 12:49 pm
Posts: 1791
Location: Lewes, East Sussex - UK
Do you have the repair manual?

John

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 11, 2017 9:17 am 
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Joined: Mon Sep 11, 2017 12:33 pm
Posts: 5
Location: Maidenhead, Berkshire, UK
Hi,

yes I got all the manuals/parts book etc. off goatwerks website.

I am a bit worried about breaking an unobtainable part. I'll read the manual and press on.

Thanks

Roger


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 11, 2017 1:24 pm 
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Location: Lewes, East Sussex - UK
Just remember, that manual is for the early Haflinger and some things are different on the later models. I don’t think a lot changed on the engine, but there are things like the oil filter system that are definitely different.

I have not had to dismantle a Haflinger engine that far so far, so would be nice to know what’s involved from a perspective other than a workshop manual!

Good luck!

John

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 03, 2018 9:29 pm 
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Joined: Wed Sep 13, 2017 9:07 am
Posts: 3
Location: Vienna-Austria
Both of the oil seals of any Haffy-motor can be renewed without having to take the motor apart.
Small oil seal sits behind pulley. Bigger oil seal sits behind flywheel.
Pulley is best removed by using an impact wrench, either electrical or pneumatic, does´nt matter.
For the bigger oil seal, behind the flywheel, best is to take the whole engine out of the vehicle, otherwise not possible. Attn: center screw of flywheel ( opens anticlockwise ) is secured using an torque-wrench with 320 Newtonmeters ( 32 KgM ). In order to get access to the oil seal, the flywheel must be removed. The motor must be secured firmly onto a workbench, and the SDP special tool 501.1.1001.5/10 is necessary to hold flywheel in place while undoing the centerscrew. For yr info: SDP assumed that whenever working on the motor ( or the gearbox ), the motor will be fixed onto the mounting-support 905.0.31.001.0, on which the fixture 501.1.1001.5 is bolted onto it´s upper platen, with which the motor is securely fastened...( the mounting-support itself being fixed into the concrete floor of the workshop ).
As i do not have such an mounting support, i use a piece of steel U-profile, ca. 1,5 m long, 100x40mm and ca.6mm thickness. Have drilled two 10mm holes into the longer wall and welded into each one a 10mm screw, 40 or 50mm long, in such a position that they fit exactly into the lower holes of the motor housing where it connects to the gearbox. The steel beam itself can be locked down onto the workbench with two suitable clamps. With the help of that, the motor is then firmly clamped down and may not be swirled around when using the torque wrench.
The SDP special tool, to lock the flywheel, is however necessary. Any other idea of how to undo that flywheel is a risk for damaging the pieces, since the flywheel must also be fastened again. To get hold of that SDP-tool: you may either contact somebody from whom you know he´s got it, or you contact Mr. Robert Prokschi here in Austria, retail sales of Haflinger spare-parts (prokschi@puch500.at) or with Dale Harrison in Edinburgh-UK, or also Mssrs. Autoquariat in Vienna ( verkauf@autoquariat.at) Greets M.J.


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 04, 2018 4:23 am 
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Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2013 1:27 am
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Location: Canberra Australia
Hi Michael and welcome to the forum - thanks for your contribution - very helpful.

I take it that your are in Austria - can you go into your profile under the User Control Panel - top right of the home page and put in your city and country.

Thanks

Garry

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Range Rover Sport TDV6 (07)
Landrover FC 101 (77)
Landrover Series 1 SWB Station Wagon (57)
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 04, 2018 4:12 pm 
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Joined: Wed Sep 13, 2017 9:07 am
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Location: Vienna-Austria
I´ve already registered: under letter M...on wednesday Sept.13 of 2017.Thks. for reminding!


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 04, 2018 4:39 pm 
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Joined: Wed Sep 13, 2017 9:07 am
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Location: Vienna-Austria
I´m sorry for a mistake: where i´m explaining how to hold down the Haffy-motor with the help of an steel U-shaped profile, i´ve mixed up things. The sentence where i wrote...have drilled two holes into the longer wall and welded into each one a 10mm screw.... That´s wrong! Instead it should read: drilled two holes of 14mm each and welded on two short pieces of steel pipe as sleeves, so that the 12mm bolts on the lower motor brackets may fit into them.
The rest of the text is Ok. Will not occur again! Mike Janczer
_____________________________________
Puch Haflinger SWB ex Police 5-speed, Eberspaecher gas heater, 765ccm
Mercedes G300 TD ,
Mercedes 220D from 1972
Mercedes A 170D
BMW 325D


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 04, 2018 7:56 pm 
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Location: Lewes, East Sussex - UK
We realise English in not your native tounge so some mistakes are going to happen! I understand how you are trying to fix the engine to the work surface so it is held strong enough to allow for very tight nuts to be done up and undone as require.

Now all we need is a easy way to hold the flywheel.


John

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Haflinger 703AP LWB 1973 - (Once owned by Lady Sutherland & Sons.) Now called "Lurch" !

Have you hit the "DONATE" button at the bottom of the page after reading this post? Many thanks if you have!!


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 05, 2018 1:18 am 
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Location: Canberra Australia
Thanks Michael - is all great stuff - it is great to hear from someone with experience with these things - people like me stumble along learning as we go from our mistakes.

Cheers

Garry

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Haflinger 700AP (73)
Range Rover Sport TDV6 (07)
Landrover FC 101 (77)
Landrover Series 1 SWB Station Wagon (57)
Landrover Series 1 SWB (57)
Jaguar E-type Roadster V12 (71)


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 05, 2018 8:14 am 
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Location: Ontario, Canada
Great info plus you own another Puch, a G300TD - that’s a nice G!
SWB or LWB?

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