Governor shaft.

[Tajman]

Whilst awaiting on various other items to be sorted out , I have been stripping the ancillary items on the engine. I took apart the governer for cleaning and checking inside. When I took off the pulley and pulled out the shaft, a small rod fell out, see photo . it seems to fit inside the main shaft but is different diameter each end. I presume this rests on the flap that is acctuated by the lever. Not sure which way round this should go back together of if there is a spring missing. The parts manual drawing does not show it. Also the repair manual does not mention it. Can anyone suggest how this fits and explain simply how the govener works. I see that it has a lever that operates a rod that opens /closes the 2 butterfly valves in the manifold. The shaft spins round and somehow activates the bulb shape that has 2 springs. What happens then?
Well Thanking you in anticipation again.
Jeff

[heinkeljb]

It's been a long time since I took my governor apart, so don't really remember the bits inside that well. The shaft is spun by the belt from the crank shaft, the bulb shaped item is in two parts with a screw in each that limits how much the relevant part can move. As the speed of rotation increases the weights (the two parts of the bulbous shape) move away from the shaft due to the centrifugal forces upon them. The movement then moves the leaver at the back of the casting which in turn moves the several other linkages all the way to the butterfly valves in the base of the Carb, these then close. Thus limiting the amount of Fuel / air mixture going into the cylinders and thereby limiting the amount of power the engine produces. This in turn prevents the engine from turning even faster.
As the speed of the governor shaft slows, the springs in the fly weights forced the weights back nearer the shaft and so with all the springs involved the butterfly valves are opened again allowing more fuel / air mixture into the engine.
The workshop manual has a bit which tells you something like "turn screw out 1/4 turn to increase road speed by 1 mph" - just make sure you turn each screw EXACTLY the same amount or you will have out of balance weights which then cause issues with getting smooth running.

I must admit I don't remember seeing a little shaft like that, but maybe it is supposed to fit with the stepped end in to the lever part in the back of the housing? If I get a chance, I take one a part and see how it is setup internally.

John

[Tajman]

Yes thanks John. I did figure out that it must be centrifugal force, the steel pin fits neatly inside the shaft but not sure which way round.
I have taken the heads off the engine and the barrels followed. Surprised me that no gaskets involved. Baffled for a moment on how to get the push rods out. Repair manual says, loosen tappet adjusters, remove rods. It took me a moment to realize I had to force the tappets to one side against the spring to give room to remove the push rods. All a learning curve!
With the heads off, I can see a decoke is necessary. I will remove the valves. There is some difference in the discolouration of the exhaust valves. I presume the lighter sandy colour is nearer correct. why the other one is black and oily ish, I am not sure. See picture.
I see a Haflinger for sale on Ebay with a small diesel engine. Another challange for someone. Also I wonder if there is any opportunity of seeing another Haflinger in the flesh in my area coming up soon as I couldn't make the 4x4 Chichester meet?
Looks like another weekend snugged up in the man cave fiddling with Haffy parts with a gale of wind and rain outside!
Cheers , Jeff.

[heinkeljb]

Looks like the rings on the one side have a bit too much wear on them and are letting a tad too much oil past them which is why that head is all oily and black. It could also be due to valve guides being worn - can't make a definitive suggestion until you have measured things and checked against the wear limits as shown in the work shop manual.

You could have taken out the valve gear shafts and removed the tappets before taking out the push rods if you had wanted to.

I think the next 4x4 meeting is going to be- https://www.facebook.com/events/5494111 ... 3651291574
I am hoping to get to it with Lurch. Then there is the UK Haflinger and Pinzgauer club "offroad" weekend happening:-
Dersingham Event May 8th, 9th & 10th Friday, Saturday & Sunday -- I'll be driving Lurch from Lewes to Dersingham - so you have can have a dead line to get your one going if you want!

Sorry, haven't had a chance to take the governor to pieces yet, hopefully this weekend.

John

[Tajman]

I have taken out the valves and found some play in both exhaust valve guides. Also the seating on the faces was very bad. I intend to get new guides and valves. They are the more recent type with 3 rings on the top.
An update on the 3 remaining fulcrum pins that are very reluctant to be removed, well the second engineering workshop failed as well and only gave me the option of spark eroding at a high price. I am now thinking if I can cut them. I am also thinking I may need to find some second hand spares to replace the swinging arms with , one front left side, one rear left side. Both with the fulcrum pins seized in the "helicoil" section of the swinging arm.
I have found a reasonably priced welder guy to rebuild the rotted out section of the footwell on the floorpan. Also started to get the engine back together.
Any body any thoughts on the shaft pin in the afore mentioned governor? When I removed the brushes from the dyna start, I found 2 were quite a bit longer than the other 2. It maybe no cause for concern. So stuggling on quite a few fronts but determined not to think " wish I'd taken on a Mini Moke or Landy".
Jeff.