some new things...

[heinkeljb]

Well done on finding an issue which appears to have solved your issues. A blocked air filter would make the mixture rich which in turn would make a mixtur that would wash the bores. This can lead to wear on the rings and bore and therefore increased oil consumption. Also could mean greater crankcase pressure which could force oil out of the crankcase via any and all possibly holes.

Make sure you fit another air filter and make sure you have a good fuel filter in place prefereably between the fuel tank and the pump and maybe even a second one betweenthe pump and the carb.

Taking the carb to pieces and giving it a good clean would probably be a good thing to do as you might still have some rubbish in the jets which can move and cause you to lose power. Generally you find that out because the engine wil run better if you pull the choke on whilst your drivig in order to keep the engine running. At that point you need to clean the jets!

John

[Rabbit 16v]

Yeah, im really happy with the improvements all from such a simple repair. I was thinking the oil consumption was probably more likely to excessive negative crankcase pressure since the engine couldnt get enough air through the air cleaner, it was trying to get it from the breather connection as well.

Already fitted a new air cleaner and bought a spare so I have one in stock. I do need to check the location of the fuel filter. I know I have replaced it at one point. I cant remember if its before the pump though. Mine also has an electric pump, so any little bit of debris could easily damage it. Plus, the fuel filler hole is giant and the tank is filled through the bed, so easy to get junk in there.

i already rebuilt the carb when I initially got it, so I think im ok on that. I dont have the choke hooked up right now. Neesd some tweaking to make work. Not sure if you remember, but this engine is from a newer 703 so the cable doesnt line up too well.

[heinkeljb]

Just remember that rubbish getting into the fuel tank settles to the bottom. The fuel pickup pipe is in the lowest part of the fuel tank. It does pick up rubbish from that pont and suck it down the pipe to the fuel pump, so a filter between the fuel tank and the pump is essential.

There were 3 different carbs fitted duringthe production of the Haflinger so that means different inlet manifolds. This means that things like the throtle cable and the choke cable don't line up, but there shouldn't be too much misalightment as they never changed the bodywork because of the different carbs. So you should be able to get the choke fitted and working without too much trouble.

Cleaning the jets on the carb should not take long and is some thing that you have to do every once in a while even if you get every other thing correct.

Enjoy driving your Haf now you have it going.

John

[Rabbit 16v]

yup, for sure. I work on cars for a living, so I get the logic here.

three different carbs? I know of the weber and the zenith, but the other? The choke cable operation for the 703 engine that I put in does require drilling to route it. So bodywork is different there. Also, its different for the shock mount bolts. No holes in the firewall on mine for the upper bolts.

ive been driving it a few times these past weeks as weather has been good. Just fixed the stuck rear locker too. Its really amazing how much more performance it has now. still tempted to put this turbo on it, lol

[heinkeljb]

There are a couple of Haflingers with Turbo's in Europe.
What can a Turbo bring to a Haflinger?
It won't increase the top speed without the engine exceeding it's designed max RPM.
It will probably make it more thirsty than it already is, average on a long road run is about 30mpg (UK)
Increase in power will allow taller gears to be used off road
Increase in power would allow higher gears on the road in more circimstances, e.g. long slow hills.
This would probably be the best reason for a Turbo, I.e less gear changes on paved roads.

A Haflinger can already spin the wheels in 1st / Krawler gear off road, but there would be times when 2nd would be a better gear to use if there was more power availabe.

The other Carb is a Solex.

If you do fit one, document the build with pictures please.

John

[Rabbit 16v]

Ja, the turbo really would only be good for acceleration and maintaining speed.

good ot know on the solex.

yup, if I put one on, it will all be well documented for sure.

[heinkeljb]

Only really good for in gear acceleration as the gear change is very slow, so not going to make a huge difference in standing start acceleration other than to point out that the gear changing takes more time then it spends in the lower gears!
If the correct size turbo is choosen, I am sure it would make a Hafflinger with the high speed hubs a nicer paved road vehicle. Particularly if you lived in a slightly hilly area as you would be able to maintain higher speeds wen you hit the uphills than a Haflinger without a turbo.
From another road users point of view, comming up behind a Haflinger that is cruising along at ~ 35 to 40 mile and hour and then a slight hill appears and they are down to 25 ~ 30 miles an hour. If the hill gets steeper, they could be down less than 20! Only for the Haflinger to crest the hill and speed up again to 30 ~ 40 MPH.
Pushing a Haflinger engine above Max revs of about 4300 to 4500 can have a significant effect on engine life! Spend lots of money on all the Racing goodies that are used in the Puch road car engines i.e. TR650 and other big bore variations that people have made and yes, you can rev the engine past 5000 ~ 6000, but I'll bet you are rebuilding it quite often if you are constanty at that speed.

John

[Rabbit 16v]

Ja, for sure. As mentioned, I do cars for a living and lots of my work is modification including adding power with things like turbos and such. the turbo I picked up is sized for a 600cc engine, so that should suffice. I do have the taller ratio hubs (the tallest of the three). This would also allow me use larger than stock tires without too much compromise. That will also help lower the rpm. Granted, either way, turbocharging will shorten the life of the engine. But, I only put maybe 3k miles on it in the past 6 years, so its not racking up the odometer count. I would definitely not remove the rev limiter as it does function. A tachometer would help though. My ear is not tuned to two cylinder rpms very well. I would also plan to use an external oil cooler because it would definitely necessitate that.

[AustHaflinger]

My engine is 762cc and I run the 75kph hub gears, 14" wheels and 25" tyres (about the biggest that will fit). My cam shaft is not the most advanced and if I could find one I would put it in.

On a long flat road with no wind I can get up to about 85kph (GPS) at about 4700 RPM and downhill about 90kph at close to the redline of 5000rpm. That is with top and windscreen up and would probably get a bit more if the windscreen were down. The real advantage is that I can cruise on the highway at 70-75kph with engine revs at 4000rpm so far less than the normal 5000rpm at 70kph that I would get if standard. It still pulls hills Ok but steeper ones do take a toll and 4th gear is too low - max 52kph.

To get a haff to run and faster you would need an engine to rev higher - can be done if rebuilding the engine with better bearings etc and cooling. The other way would be to change hub gearing which sacrifices off road capability or changing 5th and 4th gear ratios - not easy to do.

So really increased power would be great for normal driving around but not necessarily for higher speed but you could cruise at 80kph with more power.

Garry

[Rabbit 16v]

Thanks Garry for that real world info. So, im going to ask the lazy question because I dont want to dig too much right now. What is the final drive ration on the gearbox and the tallest hubs? I dont recall. I have had my speedo waaay past the 80kmh marker. Practically down to the 6 oclock position. I had someone follow me and while he wasnt paying too much attention, he said it was almost 50mph which is about 80kmh. I cant remember is the speedometer is geared differently. I thought it was just the drive gear. I should use a gps app and see exactly how accurate it is.

[AustHaflinger]

I cannot tell you what the final drive ratio but mine is all standard. When I got my Haflinger it had the 70kph hub gears and I later changed them to the 75kph gears which are the fastest standard gears. There is speedo gear unit on the front diff that match the hub gears. I had to change this when I changed hub gears. The speedo does not have to be changed - with my 25" tyres the speedo under reads below about 60kph so I have to be careful in slow residential speed zones but up around 80kph the speedo is accurate. So with standard haflinger wheels and tyres the speedo would underread.

The reality is that the Haflinger is what it is - mine can cruise a little better than most but it is not much better than a 75kph geared unit.

Garry

[Rabbit 16v]

thanks Garry. I should use a GPS to check. I also just bought two RHD haffies today. Since we are kind of on the subject of performance, one of the engines has Redrak Engineering all over it and it definitely has an upgraded pressure plate on the clutch. Anyone ever heard of this?