Spin on Oil Filter

[AustHaflinger]

I did have thread some years back on changing to a spin on oil filter but cannot find it at the moment.

Thanks to Bernard in Colac Vic I have been able to obtain a oil filter housing so that I can change over to a modern style spin on oil filter.

I have not started on the changeover as yet and just want to clarify a couple of things before I do.

I assume the old housing just unbolts from the block and the internal valves etc in the old housing come with it. I assume I then need to remove the internal components and move them across to the new housing and then just bolt the new housing up to the block. Put on a screw on filter then it is OK to run the engine etc.

Anything I have missed and anything I need to watch out for.

Thanks

Garry

[heinkeljb]

Gary,

Not having had to change the oil filter system on either of my two engines - they both have the spin on filter- I can only go by the parts book. The pictures of the early paper oil filter only show the oil pressure switch and the oil filter drain plug as being needed to e swapped to the new spin on filter housing.
The oil pump with the pressure relief valve is a separate housing so does not need to be touched.

This is another of the weird things on a Haflinger... They give you a drain plug, great drain the oil out before you take the oil filter off, very little mess as you have drained the oil already. Now do you put the NEW oil filter on dry, to avoid the mess or do you fill the oil filter with oil so there is no / very little air being pumped rough the engine when started? If you put oil in the filer, it pours out because you have to turn the filter upside down and screw it on. They should have made a new casting where the filter is the other way up, i.e. screwed on from the bottom, that way no mess either taking it off or putting it on!

John

[bernard callahan]

Hi Gary, just swap everything over to new housing and bolt in on

[AustHaflinger]

Thanks to John and Bernard for your input

John, with the exception of when I rebuilt a Rover 4.6 V8, I have never prefilled oil filters as the oil pressure just fills them up and the air is soon expelled into the crank case etc. Noting that with the old oil filter system in the Haflinger there was no way to even attempt it.

Cheers

Garry

[AustHaflinger]

Ok I need to get on with this task - at the same time replace the fan belts and shim the pulleys to tension them up (what a stupid system that is). As well I will put the front springs I got from Dave in.

Looking at the bolts for the oil filter housing, at least one bolt seems to be behind the crankshaft pulley and there does not seem to be enough room to remove the bolt. Is this the case and does the crankshaft pulley have to come off. If it does, anything I need to be careful of?

As far as belt tension is concerned - I have previously had the fan pulleys off and I guess I am happy with that - they only shims I have are the ones on it now but the tension up I will need to take some out - are there anything special about these shims or can I buy some thing suitable at my local engineering shop. The belts (well one) is a bit slack and new belts will tighten this but I may need thinner shims to get tension right.

Thanks

Garry

[heinkeljb]

As standard there are either 6 (for early Haf's) or 5 (for later Haf's) shim washers to go in the tensioning system of the Dynastart.

Put the first part of the double pulley on the shaft of the Dynastart.
Put the belt in place.
Put two of the shims on the shaft.
Put the middle piece of the double pulley on the shaft.
Put the second belt in place.
Put two shims on the shaft.
Put the final piece of the double pulley on the shaft.
Put the last (or last two) shim(s) on the shaft.
Put the nut on and lock the fan wheel using the hole and a steel rod whist you tighten up the nut.
Every once in a while as you start to tighten up the nut, allow the fan to rotate at least a full revolution to get the belts to move either up or down in the "V"s.
Once you have the nut almost tight (I am sure there is a torque setting, but don't remember it right now), check how much deflection you get on the belts.
You should only get about 1cm (i.e. .5mm in either direction) - manual says up to 2cm Max.
If the belts are too loose as you are tightening up the nut, then take the nut off, shim off and remove one shim from both sides of the centre section of the pulley. Place the extra two shims you now have along with the other loose shim(s) on the shaft and put the nut on and re-tighten the nut.
If you have 5 shims and you new belts mean that you have to add shims between the centre pulley to get the correct tension on the belts, then you are going to have to find a replacement shim of the same thickness as all the others. - quite why the later ones on have 5 shims I don't know - another of the quirks of the Haflinger designers?

As belts vary in length even if labelled as being same length, you might find that with the same number of shims between the parts of the pulley you still have one belt that seems loose compared to the other. Part of this might be down to worn pulleys - You could try using different thicknesses of shims, Bear in mind that if you tension the belt(s) too tight, it will knock out the Dynastart bearing behind the fan quite quickly!

John

[AustHaflinger]

John - thanks for that information - great stuff just what I need to reassemble the belts - I have the oil housing replaced now and that went pretty well straight forward. My pulleys are a bit worn but I do have a new centre piece so will use that when it all goes back together.

Questions - can the fan stator (the fixed bit) move with it all bolted up? I am sure mine did but I might have imagined it when In was trying to stop the fan moving when trying to get the main nut off the fan.

How do you stop the fan moving when undoing the nut? When you put a screw driver or steel rod through the hole what does the end of the rod go into to stop the fan going around - I assume there is an inner hole but I could not locate one so the fan just ran around and around - the rattle gun on max torque was able to undo the big nut with out the rod inserted so was all ok - might be different going back together.

The crankshaft bolt needed a 3' breaker bar to get it undone - really does not need to be so tight.

Cheers

Garry

[heinkeljb]

There is a hole in the fan centre cone section. The central boss of the fan is keyed to the shaft of the Dynastart. So fan does not rotate with out the shaft of the Dynastart rotating.
If you put a 8mm rod (A screwdriver is ideal) in there with the hole being about 11 O'clock when viewed from the rear it will catch on a rib on the Dynastart. This allows you to do the nut up.
If you put the rod in at about 2 O'clock it allows you to undo the nut.

Now the problem is that you need to hold the rod whilst you apply torque to the spanner / socket you have on the nut - Not easy with only one pair of hands.
I discovered that I had a Jack winding handle (scissor jack) which was the right diameter to fit through the hole and long enough to be allowed to rotate until it came up against the Platform thereby locking the rod and the fan.

If you are unlucky enough to have a nut that is really on the shaft and does not want to undo, You will find that you deform the cone shaped part of the fan as the metal gives and twists. The fan is then likely to rub on the cowl when you attempt to reinstall the fan. Depending on how much it is deformed as to whether you will be able to rescue it. For minor deformation, you can probably get away with filing the tips of the couple of fan blades that touch the cowl. Don't take of too much or you will unbalance the fan and the vibration will kill your Dynastart.

A lot of older Dynastart's will now be showing signs of wear on the rotor shafts where the bearings fit and corresponding wear in the bearing housings, this will lead to the shaft being able to move longitudinally in the Dynastart. Some Locktight / bearing glue and or shim washers should solve that.

John

[AustHaflinger]

The spin on oil filter housing is now on and working fine. Thanks do John's advice the new fan belts went on OK albeit a bit monotonous but when a routine is done it goes together well. I ended up using 4 shims on each pulley - 5 is too loose, four is a little tight (still within specs) but the new belts will stretch a bit. The trick is to assemble the pulleys with the belts on and just do the big fan nut up finger tight and then rotate the lot so the belts then ride higher up the pulleys then repeat etc until the belts ride in the right position on the pulleys and the fan nut is tight.

Now I need to reinstall my petronix ignition which I pulled out a while back when I went back to a basic system to solve an ignition problem. I then need to sort the crankshaft ventilation system - for some reason my engine does not have its correct housing on top of the oil filler and just has a vent pipe exiting the engine bay and after high speeds a little oil drips out. It should have the later system where a rubber pipe goes from the oil filler cap to the air intake above the carb to such in the fumes (however this was never designed right as there should be a filtered crankcase air intake to allow positive ventilation but Puch never had this). I have a small oil catch can and would like to put this in the rubber hose between the oil filler and air intake to catch any oil rather than have it sucked and burnt in the engine.

So with the oil filter job done, my major oil leak is fixed but still need to sort all the minor leaks, particularly from the front diff but that is a job for another day.