spark plugs

[ogdenenterprise]

My Haflinger has the shielded type spark plugs from the military configuration. I find that every so often the plug on the drivers side ( RHD) fails,
I take it out and it is oily/wet, this happens when I start the engine and it only fires on 1 cylinder. I don't usually use the choke as temperature's here in Cairns vary from about 20c to 34c. I tried to start it today and it was running on one cylinder so I removed both plugs, and found they were both wet/oily and it had not been started for approximately a week. The engine was rebuilt about 4 years ago with new bearing, rings etc and the bore was checked by a reputable engine re-conditioning company. The carb is a zeneth 32ndix, it was supposedly rebuilt by a carb company but I'm not sure what was replaced, for example the jets??, or could it be simply it just wants setting up correctly if that is the case can anyone advise how I should do it, or suggest something else to fix the problem.

Dave

[AustHaflinger]

Dave I have similar issues from to time but most of mine were caused by intermittent ignition issues. These ranged from condensers, faulty rotors, caps and coils. So I would look here first rather than fuel (if it has been running ok before). Having said that I had my carb built at while back and the one thing they dont replace are the floats - these are plastic and made of two plastic shells glued together. The day after I got my carb back it started over fuelling and on taking the top off the carb the floats had split and sunk causing over fuelling.

I have also found that very occasionally my engine is very smokey on start - I put this down to the ring gab sometimes end on the bottom and oil can leak through to the combustion chamber.

So some options to look at - but ensure ignition is tip top before looking elsewhere.

Good luck

Garry

[heinkeljb]

One thing that is always overlooked is Valve guides. Modern cars have seals that the valves slide through which scrapes a lot of oil off. Haflinger engines do not have those so oil can be sucked in from the cylinder heads.
One way of dealing with the issue is to get hotter plugs. Obviously make sure the rest of the ignition system is functioning correctly. As suggested by Gary, take the top off your carb and see if the floats have any fluid in them. You hold them up to the light and wiggle the float and if there is liquid in there you will see it sloshing around.
If there is liquid, you need to evaporate it out and then use some petrol resistant glue where ever the hole is, or better yet, replace the float.

John

[ogdenenterprise]

I am still having same problems, so I decided to remove the carb and check if any of the parts had been replaced when it was refurbished.
The first thing I noticed was one of the threads on the body that hold the top cover down was stripped. I removed the top cover to find the
where one of the air correction jets screw in to the top of the venturi was loose. It had been previously glued back in place, so when I touched
it it fell off. I tried to remove the venturi but it seems to be stuck solid.
I have just watched Prokschi,s carburettor video on YouTube and learned that my carb is a PU 1 also the float needle valve is a 125, where the
parts book says 175 so I don't know what they did /change when they refurbed the carb.
Murphy's law always happens at weekends when everything is closed, so what are my options? does anyone have the carb body and venturis
they would sell me, or suggest where I might get them.

Dave

[AustHaflinger]

Oh dear - sounds as if you are in deep do do

When I was changing back from the Solex that was fitted to my Haflinger to a NDIX I had major issues firstly finding a carb - basically not available except new $$$$$. Managed to find a Unimog carb in the US sort of cheap and got that but it has all the wrong jets etc. I managed to get a Haflinger jet block (basically the middle section of the carb) from Haflinger Technik so when matched with the Unimog top and base sections that gave me a basic Haflinger carb with the correct jets.

Since then I have only seen carb rebuild kits (mainly Porsche) that comprise various parts for rebuilds. The most comprehensive kit I found was through Classic Carbs in Brisbane https://classiccarbs.com.au/Contact-us (was Porshe though). As far as carb jets etc so forth then Haflinger Technik or try HaflingerParts https://haflingerparts.com/ but I have no experience with them. Between Haflinger Technik and Classic Carbs my issues were solved.

This link may be of interest re working on the carb http://www.sparkingplugs.com/5.html

Also see this = Porsche focussed but helpful

LaDow-zenith-carb-tuning.pdf

(739.89 KiB) Downloaded 64 times

Good luck with it
Garry

[heinkeljb]

All I can suggest is continual looking on all the Ebay sites, Haf and Pinz forums etc - asking for a replacement 32ndix card. Be prepared to pay a fair amount for the basic unit and then having to pay some more for rebuild kit and making it a Haf version.

John

[ogdenenterprise]

I have managed to locate a replacement body for the carburettor but its in the UK, the upside is it is free I just have to pay postage. The down side is it will probably be a few weeks before I receive it.
I removed the lower cast part from the carb, only to find more problems. The brass butterfly disks had been installed the wrong way round,
the edge is angled so when I tried to gap them in the closed position with a 1.5mm Allen key, the throttle bolt was about 5mm from the casting stop plate. The butterfly shaft is worn in the 3 places where it rotates in the casting so I will replace that as well.
Hopefully I have got to the bottom of the faults and all will be all good when I finally put it all back together.
I will keep you posted.

Dave

[AustHaflinger]

Well that is two steps forward - looks like it will work out for you.

Garry

[ogdenenterprise]

Here is a few photos of the problems Ive found.

Dave

[ogdenenterprise]

The carb body arrived yesterday arvo. I thought it would take longer. (Fedex)
UK - Aus 6 days,
Victoria(Aus) - Cairns 3days
I need to borrow a ultrasonic cleaner from a friend of mine to clean up all the parts.
unless someone can suggest a better way of doing it.

Dave

[AustHaflinger]

Carby cleaner.

Do you have a Haflinger NDIX 32 jet block, as the jets in the carbs for different vehicles will be different.

Going back through old emails I came across this text from the Haflinger guru Jim in California (http://www.goatwerks.com/haflingertechstuff.html) He is also on this forum "Goatworks". So check what you have in your jet block to ensure it aligns with the following. Noting I was going from Unimog carb to Haflinger carb (using a Haflinger jet block) but this gives the Haflinger specs.

"Haflinger version is closest to the Unimog type. Just change out the jets and venturi inserts. Venturi 22mm, main jet sizes 95/100/105/110/115, idle jet 45, air correction jet 240, idle air jet 80, pump jet 40, starter jet 190, use the Unimog injection tubes(squirters/part#79 in parts book) as the special Haflinger ones are no longer available.

Easy conversion and uses a std Unimog rebuild kit and same pump length as Pinz, use lowest hole for pump rod.

Suggested to use 115 mainjet. (based on tropical conditions and low altitude – may not be appropriate for Canberra but needs to be able to operate in varied conditions).

I subsequently went for the following and they work fine.
2 x 22mm Venturi
2 x 115 mainjets
2 x idle jet 45
2 x air correction jet 240
2 x idle air jet 80
2 x pump jet 40
2 x starter jet 190

So if you jets are the same or near these you will be on the way to getting a good carb. Most of the jets with have the number stamped on them and you can also purchase a measuring tool.

Garry

[ogdenenterprise]

Hi Garry.


Suggested to use 115 mainjet. (based on tropical conditions and low altitude – may not be appropriate for Canberra but needs to be able to operate in varied conditions).

I have looked in the workshop manual, and quote as it is written.
Main jet 2 x 110 (for tropical regions and altitudesup to 6500ft (2000m)
(2 x 105)

Which would you read i would require for my situation, being as I live in very tropical Cairns.
The original carb was fitted with 110 mains.

Dave

[AustHaflinger]

I would stay with the 110s if that is what you have. Jim suggested 115 for me for tropical and low altitude which would suit you as well.

Seems as if you have things well in hand.

[ogdenenterprise]

I have cleaned the carb and all the parts that go with it in a ultrasonic cleaner, so now its rebuild time or so I thought.
I got the parts book out ( page 1 40.0)and the first thing I noticed was the abutment plate is shown fitted on
the pump valve side which is opposite to how mine was originally fitted.
I have tried fitting the abutment plate as per the drawing, but when everything is tightend up on the butterfly shaft,
the plate just catches the under side of the casting, so it doesnt let the butterflys fully open to the vertical position.
They only open to about 45deg. Has any one any photos of which side the plate should be fitted or any suggestions.
As I said earlier this was supposidly rebuilt by a profesional carb company.

Dave

[AustHaflinger]

By the abutment - I assume you mean item 5 on page 1 40.0. of the manual

I think the manual has that wrong. I cannot take a pic of the passenger side of the carb due to aircleaner etc being in the way but here is a pic of the accelerator pump side (drivers side) of my carb - no abutment there. The screw adjuster that goes with the abutment is on the other side of the carb.

Garry

[heinkeljb]

Equally grotty picture of the same side of a NDIX 32 carb on Lurch.

John

[ogdenenterprise]

Garry, John. Thankyou for the photos, the book is obviously wrong. I can now put it back as it originally was.

Dave

[ogdenenterprise]

I have just spent the christmas holidays with family down in Brisbane, while I was down there I managed to get hold of some more new parts for my carb. the kit included new throttle valves ( butterflys) and bushes for the throttle vale shaft.
I started rebuilding the carb when I got home. I took the block and bushes to a couple of engineering shops, they both said they did not want to try removing the original bushes as the could not guarantee the could line the bushes up after they had drilled the old one out.
They also said the original bushes wer not too baldly worn.
So next step was to replace the 2 brass throttle valves, these would not even go in the bores af the block, so I ended up fitting the originals.
I thought I would fit the carb back on the Haflinger next day, but I had my 3rd covid booster shot that night and that wiped me out for 2 days.
Then it was back to work after that, only to get a phone call to say the other work college had been in close contact with someone who has covid
so he went for a test yesterday, but they are now taking 5/6 days to get results, so he is isolating till then. Will I ever be able to get it running again??

Dave

[AustHaflinger]

But you are making progress and that is what counts - can be demoralising - a stiff upper lip and all that and all of a sudden it will all come together.

If you have any Mercedes Benz independent mechanics who work on older Mercs in the area, they may be able to help as may older Mercs have the same carb.

Garry

[ogdenenterprise]

I was still having problems with the spark plugs getting wet, when I didnt start the Haf for a few weeks.
I checked the work shop manual and comparing the fuel level to the manual I found it was about 4mm too high.
The floats are ok so I replaced the inlet valve, but when I re checked it was still too high, so I added another
washer to the inlet valve.
I lost my key for the shed, so after a lot of searching I found a spare set. Ive just re fitted the carb and tightened the banjo fitting up
only to strip the thread so it wont tighten up. . So im not having a good day.
Now the problem is trying to locate a replacement top for the carb.

Dave