weber pm 26

[ogdenenterprise]

Im not getting any fuel through my weber fuel pump.
Ive started to strip it down, removed the hoses, and the 5 screw bolts and found the top gasket needs replacing.
I replaced everything on the fuel pump when I did the rebuild a few years ago.
I think I will have to undo the 2 nuts that hold the pump to the engine casting to be able to replace everything again.
Im not sure what the size of the nuts are 11, 12, 13mm?? as I cant get anything in to undo the nuts.
I remember strugling when I did it the first time, but cant remember how? has anybody done one recently or suggest how to remove it.
I want to keep everything original so no suggestion I replace it with a electric pump.

Dave

[heinkeljb]

I think the nuts are either 10 or 11mm and I think you will have to get a "stubby" open end spaneer to get at them. The bottom one you can probably get better access to if you remove the tin ware underneath the engine. Top on is just going to be a pain (paint - do you just love autocorrect?) unless you want to dismantle other things as well.
If you removed the oil Filler / breather tower you would have better access to the top nut. Having said that, getting to the nuts that hold that in place is almost as bad as getting to the nut holding the fuel pump in place!

Perseverance is the only way to do it. Maybe even cut down a normal spanner to the right length specifically for the job?

John

[AustHaflinger]

Replace with an electric fuel pump

[ogdenenterprise]

I have managed to remove the fuel pump with a crow foot wrench for the top nut and a short 11mm open end/ ring spanner.
I also stand corrected its not a webber pm26, it is a solex PE 15 080 made by alfred pierburg.

Dave

[ogdenenterprise]

now to find replacement parts, I need (4) fuel filter, (10) diaphram, 22 & 23 gaskets.
I can probably get most of the parts but no4 I think I might struggle to get unless someone has a spare.

Dave

[ogdenenterprise]

I got a service kit for the pump, which was easy to install.
Then the hard part was fitting the pump back on the engine.
The pump is spring loaded so when you fit it to the engine studs and the position of them, it is very difficult
to get the washers and nuts started even when you turn the engine so the lobe is in the lowest position.
I finally got it right on the 3rd attempt, because its spring loaded I think the plunger was slipping to the side
of the lobe and not operating the pump. It took me about 3.5 hours just to install the pump.
Needlesly to say I dont want to do another one in a hurry.

Dave

[AustHaflinger]

Needlesly to say I dont want to do another one in a hurry.

Dave

It takes me about 5 minutes to replace my electric pump and I carry spare in the tool kit.

[ogdenenterprise]

I have not started the Haf for about 3 months, I have replaced the military ignition with a civillian type.
When I tried to start it after I had completed the install, it only ran for a few seconds on full choke. I checked in the top
of the carb and I could not see fuel squirting from the 2 brass tubes when I operated the accelerator shaft.
I checked all the jets, yes they were all clear. I then swapped the carb out with a spare one I have, same thing.
I took the top of both carbs and used the pump plungers to see if any fuel squirted from the tubes, both worked
so my deduction is the fuel pump is faulty again.
I have a old weber PM 26 fuel pump, so I think I will get a full service kit for it and replace the pierberg pump.
I cant say Im looking forward to it, but I want to keep everything as original as I can.

Dave

[ogdenenterprise]

As a last resort, if it comes to it, what type/ model electric fuel pump are you fitting.

Dave