TheHaflinger.com

Hi Julian,

one thought that I had: Did you fit the two locating screws first thing when assembling the two crankcase halves? If not, the position of the two crankcase halves relatively to each other might be not correct.


Kind regards,
Constantin

The bearings do "look" good, and I'm hopeful / confident that they will be fine. Interestingly they are much lighter than the originals, and are presumably made of some allow rather than the originals in steel. No doubt material technology has come on leaps and bounds since the late 1950s!

[As an aside, I was interested to see that Nyloc nuts were used in the Parts Manual to secure the two rocker arm shafts to the crankcase - I had always assumed that they were a much more recent innovation.]

I did note that the indents in the three bearings are offset, and thought that I had located them into the lugs OK, but maybe not. Anyhow, I have now undone it all, so the pressure is released; I'll wait for the Permatex to arrive and then start the re-build again. I suppose the positive from all of this is that the second time one does anything it is so much easier.

One other thing that I don't understand is why would three thicknesses (from memory) of the copper shim between flywheel and crankshaft be listed? What benefit derives from the different thicknesses? On the basis that the position of the crankshaft in relation to the crankcase is effectively fixed by the large main bearing, what good comes from moving the flywheel in or out?

If they can do open heart surgery over the net, maybe there is a market for facilitating struggling "engineers" too?

PS Constantin - yes, the locating screws (with long shanks) were the first things that I tightened up.

Julian,

Looking at the parts book, there is only the 0.1 mm Copper washer and the 14 mm pin that could have any affect on the joint between the flywheel and the crankshaft. I had come to the conclusion that the position of the crankshaft and end float was controlled by the shouldered main bearing and the gap made by the shoulder on the crankshaft and the shoulder on the flywheel.
Having not read the repair manual specifically regarding the building up of the crankcase, I don't know if you have to put the flywheel on first or after the crankcase is all together.

I must admit I find it very strange that there is not an obvious shimming system to govern end float, not even differing widths of main bearings.

I will have to sit down with the books and study the problem as it is bound to come and bit me at some point!

John

Actually, if you had a laptop / computer / smartphone with a program like Skype on it, then it would be possible to set up a link with some one who could guide you doing various tasks. It would have limitations obviously but things like time zones are down to humans.

The best link would use either a smartphone with a third party holding it / moving it to the required position or a usb web cam on a cable which could be moved around the place.

I am up for it if anyone wants to try...

John

Many of the crankcase studs & bolts are M7 size; most do not have a torque setting in the Workshop Manual. This page gives several torque settings for M7 nuts, depending on their "quality". http://www.npfasteners.com/pdfs/max-rec ... torque.pdf

But the studs are not marked with a quality number. Any suggestions as for which torque should I use in this instance?

Many thanks!

Julian,

Have you looked at the torque tables that were posted on the yahoo group site? I downloaded a copy of the tables and it lists the various studs holding the crank case together - in MKP, but you can use an online converter to convert to NM.
I saw two M7 which varied between 1.6 and 1.8 MKP but there are all the others there. If you can't find it I can go through and list them all for you.

John

heinkeljb wrote:Have you looked at the torque tables that were posted on the yahoo group site?

John, I can't find it - do you have a link?

Sorry Julian,

My mistake, the tables were on the Yahoo keeping my Haflinger alive site:-

http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Ste ... e%20table/

If you still can't get them or don't understand them, let me know.

John

John, Thanks for the link - all 5 pages now downloaded & stored for future reference. I did have the engine page to hand, but it only mentions the M10 crankcase nuts - not the M7 nuts ...

I found the torque settings for those in the first two pages of those tables.

John

Julian,

The reason for the differences in the torque values for what on the surface appears to be the same item is due to two things: 1) The studs are different lengths which makes their tensile strength different. 2) They are in different thicknesses of casting so again the tensile strength of the item is different.

I agree the last item (48) does not appear to exist, BUT remember that there were / are several parts books even if there appears to be only one now. I am sure that various parts departments in the early day would have received a parts book which was then revised several times.

My advise would be to use the lowest torque setting you can find that is relevant - you can always increase it slightly, but doing it up too tight will usually result in damage to either the item or at least to the threads.

John

How's it going Julian?

Finished rebuilding it yet? Driving around in your new non-smoky engine? Don't leave us hanging!

John

Hi John,

Nearly, but not quite. The engine is 99% rebuilt, but I still need to a) mend two exhaust studs on the cylinder heads which I forgot to do when all stripped down , and b) sort out the small metal lug that locates the Dynastater onto the engine case. It is supposed to be fixed to the Dynastarter housing but I now see that the older & original engine case has another lug stuck into the opposing hole. Result ... two lugs, no hole!

I'm away until tomorrow, but hope to re-fit the engine on Thursday. With luck the timing will be easy to sort out (famous last words), and that I'll be careering around the farm shortly afterwards. (Joke!).

I'll let you know how I get on very soon,

Julian

Hi Julian,
What did the crankshaft binding issue turn out to be caused by?
Cheers,
Steve

Steve, embarrassed to admit it, but almost certainly not getting all 3 bearings properly seated into the lugs on one side of the crank case. Whilst we took great care & thought that we had got it right the recess in one of them had been burred over . But the good news is that we were able to resolve that issue - the recess in the bearing is sorted - & the engine is now rebuilt and turns easily by hand. Also, the end float is (I think) now within spec, so the previous excess is likely to have been caused by wear to the outer flange of the previous main bearing adjacent to the flywheel.

Hi Julian,

Glad to hear you were able to sort the bearing out and all's well. That's a good lesson for this forum's readers to be aware of as it can easily happen.
Yes, the bearing face next to the flywheel is the most likely wear point to give excess end float as there is no lubrication here like there is on the inside face.
Can't wait to here the news of it firing up.

Cheers,
Steve

Steve, just a minor point ... is there not some lubrication on that outer flange? Oil comes out of the crankcase through a rectangular hole adjacent to the crankshaft, and is held back by the large plastic seal that grips the flywheel flange.

I'm now back at home after a couple of days away, and hope to install the engine today. More anon ...

Hi Julian,
Sorry, you are correct regarding lubrication of the external bearing face, I had forgotten about that oil passage. I guess I really am getting old .

Hooray, it works!!!!!!!!!!!!

After a bit of a hiccup with a short within the distributor the engine fired up first time, and runs really smoothly. I need to tweak a couple of things - timing / mixture / idling speed etc, and replace the oil seal between the pulley and the crankshaft to cure an oil leak, but when done I am both hopeful and confident that I will have achieved what I set out to do - namely strip down the old engine & rebuild the components within the original crankcase that my Haf shipped with (it having been removed during the 1980s by a previous owner who was very kind and gave it to me). No end float to speak of either!

I'll bed the engine in carefully and get it road legal in a week or two.

Thanks to everyone for their help & support - it has been genuinely very helpful.

Onwards and upwards!

Congratulatios Julian! This is a very proud moment for sure .
Cheers,
Steve