TheHaflinger.com

Can someone give me an idea as to how I should reach the inside exhaust bracket on my Hafi?

Unless I have a 2 foot extension with a "wobble" drive at the end, I'm at a loss as to how to get these bolts loose.

All the other bolts are free but those two... ug.
Thank you..

I presume you have taken the rear spring out? I had a real issue trying to replace missing spit pins on the top rear shock absorber mounts - finally managed after scraping arms and using long nosed long handled pliers etc.

Then I had to take off the rear spring to replace the flexible brakes hoses about a week later and discovered that A) they are really easy to take off if you have a set of spring compressors, and B) you suddenly had a lot more room to do things in that area and I could have replaced the split pins with no trouble at all!

So try that and see.

John

It seems nuts to me that the suspension needs to be opened up to pull a muffler.

It's really simple as with the axle hanging down as far as the strap will let it, a pair of spring compressors will compress the spring enough for you to lift it off the bottom peg and out.

As you say, you can probably get to the bolts without taking the spring off, but I an sure it will make your life easier if you do.

I have found various things on the Haflinger which I think are nuts, but that's the way it was designed. A technical solution to a problem, but not necessarily the simplest technical solution!

The rear hand brake does not really need the intermediate lever on the rear drum, but it has it.
The steering idler bushes do not need to be put in to the casting with a lip between them, could just as easily have had a spacer tube - would have allowed both to be taken out in one go rather than having to do the top and then the bottom bushes in opposite directions.
The top king pin (Swivel pin) could have been made differently. Longer threaded hole would have been easy, would allow more thread to be used when removing it.
The Rzeppa joint could have been made so it could be taken apart to be cleaned properly instead of trying to reply on a solvent to wash the old grease out.

I am sure I could think of more things which could have been done differently, but the fact is they have been done the way they have been done and we have to live with them!

Take the spring out and see if it gives you the room you need.

John

I have the little round muffler rather than the oval one and I can get at the nuts and bolts that hold it on without having to remove the spring or damper. It is a bit of a fiddle and it does help to have someone underneath to hold the nuts as they are not captive but can be done by yourself.

I used a ring spanner to hold the rear nut allowing the spanner to move into a spot where it will not move and I then used a socket and extension to undo the bolt. The spanner fell out a few times but held on others so with a bit of perseverance it all worked. As far as I can see you would just need a longer extension on the wider oval muffler.

Garry

I'm just surprised that the muffler, which is a required mechanical component and prone to damage in the field, would be such a P.I.A. to remove.
I have to be careful with the disassembly due to corrosion.. I don't want to damage anything other than hardware before I stabilize the condition and braze any issues.
I might just use a really long socket extension after all.. the suspension will be for a later time.

The other way is to leave the bracket attached to the muffler and unbolt the whole lot from the gearbox/diff housing (three bolts only) - extra hands are not needed but the socket extension will still be needed.

Garry

20 inches of extension later.. Got em'!

cascade.king wrote:20 inches of extension later.. Got em'!

Well done - but does help a little if the wheel is removed.

Cheers

Garry

Wheel removed and spring compressors on the spring, spring out - lots of room. Still at least it shows there are other methods of managing to do the job.

John