TheHaflinger.com

On first go in gluing the floats one was Ok but the other has a small pin hole so I reglued that one and all seemed OK so back they went into the carby and fuel pressure was not pushing past the float needle - so first win.

On a test drive it would die after turning hard left but not when slow left turn and would not idle. I took out the fuel pump that was in it and put the slightly lower pressure unit it and wallah - all fixed .

Engine idles at 800rpm, does not stall, the left turn issue was gone. On test driving the engine is pulling 5000rpm in the lower gears, there seems to be more torque and top speed is a little higher. The old carby died at low revs on very steep hills where the engine with the new carby is pulling strongly on steep hills. The stalling issue at lights is not longer there.

The idle mixture screws are only set at a static setting which seem to be pretty close. Now that everything seems to be working Ok I will book it in for a dyno tune for fine tuning the ignition and carby.

I am at a loss why the previous owner took the Zenith off the engine and put on the Solex carby that was on it as the Zenith clearly works better.

I only hope the glue holds up as I am not sure where I could get new floats as they are not in the carby kits.

Cheers

Garry

I think if you want "new" floats, they will have to come form some existing carb - possibly a cheap junk carb - you know the ones people put out at auto jumbles but have no idea what they fit!

Lets hope your glue repair continues to hold as it sound like you have had a good result from putting the Zenith carb on.
Maybe the original Zenith suffered the same problem as yours - leaky floats and the owner couldn't find suitable replacements?

John

The carby guy said he was surprised that the carby had plastic floats given the era when these carbs originate from - late 50s - 60s with the Haffy, Unimog 404, Porsche etc when floats were generally soldered brass etc. The guy thought that originally these would have been brass and these ones being plastic could have been later reproductions.

Cheers

Garry

I have an exhaust leak and have discovered one stud and nut is missing from the left bank (exhaust pipe to the head). Can anyone tell me the specs of the stud? It looks like M8, but what thread?

John W

The exploded parts book will tell you. Don't have mine to hand right at the moment, but if you still haven't found it, post again and I will look it up for you. It will be a metric thread.

One thing to check would be that the stud has actually come out and not just sheared off!

John

heinkeljb wrote:The exploded parts book will tell you. Don't have mine to hand right at the moment, but if you still haven't found it, post again and I will look it up for you. It will be a metric thread.

One thing to check would be that the stud has actually come out and not just sheared off!

John

I couldn't see it on either the exhaust page, nor the cylinder head page. The nut and washer are there but not the stud. The nut is M8, but I don't know what pitch the thread is.

John W

Just take the nut to the hardware store and match it on the test board - it will be 1.0 or 1.25

garrycol wrote:Just take the nut to the hardware store and match it on the test board - it will be 1.0 or 1.25

What nut!! I don't have the nut, stud or washer. That's what I'm trying to identify. Normally the part book would tell you the size and pitch but I cannot find the stud in the book. The nut description merely says M8.

John W

Ok - misunderstood - I thought you had the nut.

Just undo the other exhaust nut and use it - they are common - I have a whole lot in my nut and bolt box but I am not in Canberra at the moment so cannot check for you.

You of course could spend up big and buy a M8 1.0, a M8 1.25 and a M8 1.75 nut - might cost $5 all up and $10 if you buy the matching bolts (to check the thread in the head). You will have trouble getting a stud though and if you are not careful it is easy to strip the thread in the head. Mine are all stripped and have different sizes in the head and some have threaded inserts in as well.

Oh I also always put in a slot in my studs now to help inserting and extracting them with a screw driver.

Garry

garrycol wrote:Ok - misunderstood - I thought you had the nut.

Just undo the other exhaust nut and use it - they are common - I have a whole lot in my nut and bolt box but I am not in Canberra at the moment so cannot check for you.

You of course could spend up big and buy a M8 1.0, a M8 1.25 and a M8 1.75 nut - might cost $5 all up and $10 if you buy the matching bolts (to check the thread in the head). You will have trouble getting a stud though and if you are not careful it is easy to strip the thread in the head. Mine are all stripped and have different sizes in the head and some have threaded inserts in as well.

Oh I also always put in a slot in my studs now to help inserting and extracting them with a screw driver.

Garry

Thanks, Garry

I intended cutting down a bolt once I find the thread if I can't find a correct stud. Slot in the end great idea.

John W

wojo12 wrote:
Thanks, Gazza

Its Garry

garrycol wrote:

wojo12 wrote:
Thanks, Gazza

Its Garry [/quote

Sorry Garry - I edited out my error.

John W

John,

You're right, the parts book only lists it as M8. Can you get the nut off the other stud? If so you could use that as your pattern. Just make sure you clean out the thread in the hole of the missing stud so you can get the new stud all the way to the bottom to use as much thread as possible to hold the new stud in place. A little bit of Locktite might no go amiss either! (low strength hold).

John

heinkeljb wrote:John,

You're right, the parts book only lists it as M8. Can you get the nut off the other stud? If so you could use that as your pattern. Just make sure you clean out the thread in the hole of the missing stud so you can get the new stud all the way to the bottom to use as much thread as possible to hold the new stud in place. A little bit of Locktite might no go amiss either! (low strength hold).

John

Thanks John. I'll attack that after I get my motor running again!! (Accel pump)

Cheers

John W

Quick update

re exhaust stud - usual problem. It's already larger than M8. My mechanic attempting to rectify tomorrow.

re carby - accel pump fitted with new seal. Seems like a blocked jet somewhere. Revs freely stationary but stalls under load. Carby kit winging its way from Scotland, as we speak.

John W

wojo12 wrote:re exhaust stud - usual problem. It's already larger than M8. My mechanic attempting to rectify tomorrow.

Put in a threaded insert so that you can go back to M8 studs.

Get it done in a machine shop - Studs are a real pain if they are not vertical or centered properly. Get the insert put in with some high temperature locktite so it says in place if you have to take the nut off later.

John