Hi all, thanks for all the great information and help already posted.
On stripping down my project I found the Front wheel drive selector shaft was broken.
Today I finally got into the section of the prop shaft housing where the FWD selector is located.
Now I am in I can see the fork has slipped at some point and looks like it has caused a bit of damage.
I will try and upload a couple of photos showing the inside with and without the 700.2.41.067 "muff coupling"
The splines on the end of the main shaft also seem to have some damage on.
Would value any advice on the way forward.
The pin holding the selector fork in won't move even with a lock nut so can't get the old selector shaft out.
Do the collars on the fork look badly worn / broken?
Front wheel drive selector
Re: Front wheel drive selector
Sorry to hear you have a snapped shaft - always the worst thing have happen. Generally means mistreatment at some point in its past!
Depending on how bad the damage is on the end of the main drive you can "dress" the mangled edges back to being correct shaped sharp edges with appropriate grind stones.
Obviously getting hold of replacement shafts would be the best idea, but other than some one who has a suitable front transmission which they are prepared to part with either in bits or as a whole item. I am not sure if the bits you will need are in the "re manufactured" category yet.
As far as getting the selector pin moving, I take it you can get to either end of the shaft? Before you do anything further, I would suggest buying a suitable container (a baby bath seems about the right size) and dunking the whole thing in some diesel for a week or so!
If you can get to both end and it is supposed to come out out either side (which from the parts book, it looks like that). I would then apply some heat from a heat gun (or borrow the oven) and get it nice and hot before attempting to drift the pin out.
If you use a heat gun, make a shielded box to keep the heat in by using a couple of cardboard boxes one inside the other to make your own variation of an oven. Heat gun in through one hole and a smaller hole on the opposite side to let the air out.
Have you tried asking Dale at Haflinger Technik if they have the bits you need? You might get lucky. Part will be available, but most likely from Mainland Europe.
Good luck with the further dismantling! Hope nothing further breaks.
John
Depending on how bad the damage is on the end of the main drive you can "dress" the mangled edges back to being correct shaped sharp edges with appropriate grind stones.
Obviously getting hold of replacement shafts would be the best idea, but other than some one who has a suitable front transmission which they are prepared to part with either in bits or as a whole item. I am not sure if the bits you will need are in the "re manufactured" category yet.
As far as getting the selector pin moving, I take it you can get to either end of the shaft? Before you do anything further, I would suggest buying a suitable container (a baby bath seems about the right size) and dunking the whole thing in some diesel for a week or so!
If you can get to both end and it is supposed to come out out either side (which from the parts book, it looks like that). I would then apply some heat from a heat gun (or borrow the oven) and get it nice and hot before attempting to drift the pin out.
If you use a heat gun, make a shielded box to keep the heat in by using a couple of cardboard boxes one inside the other to make your own variation of an oven. Heat gun in through one hole and a smaller hole on the opposite side to let the air out.
Have you tried asking Dale at Haflinger Technik if they have the bits you need? You might get lucky. Part will be available, but most likely from Mainland Europe.
Good luck with the further dismantling! Hope nothing further breaks.
John
Haflinger 703AP LWB 1973 - (Once owned by Lady Sutherland & Sons.) Now called "Lurch" !
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Re: Front wheel drive selector
Hi John,
The only shaft that is snapped is the small one that goes through the selector fork to engage FWD, it has sheared flush with the housing.
All the main shafts are intact thankfully. I will post a photo of the main shaft tomorrow to get a little advice on whether the damage warrants a replacement.
Simon
The only shaft that is snapped is the small one that goes through the selector fork to engage FWD, it has sheared flush with the housing.
All the main shafts are intact thankfully. I will post a photo of the main shaft tomorrow to get a little advice on whether the damage warrants a replacement.
Simon
Re: Front wheel drive selector
Hi Simon,
It is good to know it is only a small shaft which has snapped! Can you get at either end? if you can, I still recommend the diesel bath if you can wait. Failing that, something like "PlusGas" is a very good releasing fluid - drown it and the bits holding the shaft with lots of PlusGas and then see if the bits will move.
Another method if you have access is to weld a bolt on to one end of the broken shaft which then gives you something to hook a slide hammer on to. That and the heat from the welding might get it moving.
Try not to change the proportions of your photos, the ones you have posted above make the round things look like eggs!
I did a quick "how to" on posting photos under "Random Pictures" if it is of any interest to you.
John
It is good to know it is only a small shaft which has snapped! Can you get at either end? if you can, I still recommend the diesel bath if you can wait. Failing that, something like "PlusGas" is a very good releasing fluid - drown it and the bits holding the shaft with lots of PlusGas and then see if the bits will move.
Another method if you have access is to weld a bolt on to one end of the broken shaft which then gives you something to hook a slide hammer on to. That and the heat from the welding might get it moving.
Try not to change the proportions of your photos, the ones you have posted above make the round things look like eggs!
I did a quick "how to" on posting photos under "Random Pictures" if it is of any interest to you.
John
Haflinger 703AP LWB 1973 - (Once owned by Lady Sutherland & Sons.) Now called "Lurch" !
Have you hit the "DONATE" button at the bottom of the page after reading this post? Many thanks if you have!!
Have you hit the "DONATE" button at the bottom of the page after reading this post? Many thanks if you have!!
Re: Front wheel drive selector
John,
The photos are in the original perspective (maybe a little large in terms of MB), I think they look odd because the fork selector on the shaft has been bent and is also not now central.
The little shaft does move freely but it is the machine screw holding the fork onto the shaft that is solid. I think I may end up welding a nut on to try and extract, I have tried two nuts together to lock but no movement. Then I hope to slid the shaft out.
In terms of the splines on the main shaft coming out of the front hub, does that look normal or very warn?
Simon
The photos are in the original perspective (maybe a little large in terms of MB), I think they look odd because the fork selector on the shaft has been bent and is also not now central.
The little shaft does move freely but it is the machine screw holding the fork onto the shaft that is solid. I think I may end up welding a nut on to try and extract, I have tried two nuts together to lock but no movement. Then I hope to slid the shaft out.
In terms of the splines on the main shaft coming out of the front hub, does that look normal or very warn?
Simon
Re: Front wheel drive selector
Simon,
To be honest, the pictures don't show the splines on the end of the shaft very well. So more pictures I think are needed. Try to take one from a bit more of an angle and a bit further away to allow the camera to focus nicely. Then use Paint.net to zoom in and crop the picture to show the ends of the splines.
From what I can tell of the way the 4 wheel drive selector works, the collar is moved by the fork rearwards along the splines and on to the splines on the shaft which comes from the gearbox. This would suggest that as long as the collar slides on both sets of splines nicely, then it doesn't matter too much if the ends on the front shaft from the front diff are a bit worn as long as the collar can join the two shafts with enough of an overlap.
The machine screw with a liberal soaking of PlusGas and a nut welded on it should come undone as the heat from the weld should break the rust bond / thread lock which is preventing it from turning at present. Worst case would be to drill down the middle of the machine screw and gradually use a bigger and bigger drill bit until you can either peel the remains of the machine screw in the hole and remove it or run a tap of the correct size down the hole to cut the remains of the thread of the machine screw out and clean up the thread.
Good luck which every way you go - preferably the first way as it would be easier!
John
To be honest, the pictures don't show the splines on the end of the shaft very well. So more pictures I think are needed. Try to take one from a bit more of an angle and a bit further away to allow the camera to focus nicely. Then use Paint.net to zoom in and crop the picture to show the ends of the splines.
From what I can tell of the way the 4 wheel drive selector works, the collar is moved by the fork rearwards along the splines and on to the splines on the shaft which comes from the gearbox. This would suggest that as long as the collar slides on both sets of splines nicely, then it doesn't matter too much if the ends on the front shaft from the front diff are a bit worn as long as the collar can join the two shafts with enough of an overlap.
The machine screw with a liberal soaking of PlusGas and a nut welded on it should come undone as the heat from the weld should break the rust bond / thread lock which is preventing it from turning at present. Worst case would be to drill down the middle of the machine screw and gradually use a bigger and bigger drill bit until you can either peel the remains of the machine screw in the hole and remove it or run a tap of the correct size down the hole to cut the remains of the thread of the machine screw out and clean up the thread.
Good luck which every way you go - preferably the first way as it would be easier!
John
Haflinger 703AP LWB 1973 - (Once owned by Lady Sutherland & Sons.) Now called "Lurch" !
Have you hit the "DONATE" button at the bottom of the page after reading this post? Many thanks if you have!!
Have you hit the "DONATE" button at the bottom of the page after reading this post? Many thanks if you have!!
Re: Front wheel drive selector
Just to update on the above.
The above would have been SO much easier to dismantle if I had realised the machine screw / bolt I was trying to unscrew was I fact a cotter pin that just needed a firm tap to pop out! It even states Cotter on the parts list, Doh,,,,,
Anyway nothing damaged that wasn't already broken. You live and learn.
Replacement parts now ready to fit.
The above would have been SO much easier to dismantle if I had realised the machine screw / bolt I was trying to unscrew was I fact a cotter pin that just needed a firm tap to pop out! It even states Cotter on the parts list, Doh,,,,,
Anyway nothing damaged that wasn't already broken. You live and learn.
Replacement parts now ready to fit.
Re: Front wheel drive selector
Well done!
So it will be on the road soon
Maybe even in time to join us at the Dutch Treffen over the weekend, April 25th / 26th?
Need some pictures show the whole dismantled beast, or at least the parts you are working on..
John
So it will be on the road soon
Maybe even in time to join us at the Dutch Treffen over the weekend, April 25th / 26th?
Need some pictures show the whole dismantled beast, or at least the parts you are working on..
John
Haflinger 703AP LWB 1973 - (Once owned by Lady Sutherland & Sons.) Now called "Lurch" !
Have you hit the "DONATE" button at the bottom of the page after reading this post? Many thanks if you have!!
Have you hit the "DONATE" button at the bottom of the page after reading this post? Many thanks if you have!!