Diff and Gearbox Sump Plugs - Fulcrum Oil Seals

[AustHaflinger]

In other threads you can read about the work I have done on my engine and front diff over the past 6 months.

I am just putting all the covers and plates back on under the vehicle.

Before putting the front bash plate on I thought I would check the front diff oil level and the front hub oil. Front hub oils are clear with no metal bits from the new hubs gears wearing in so oil replaced anyway. The diff oil was a toffee colour - not water - I suspect some of the excess orange sealant used on the rebuild has mixed with the oil giving it an orange colour so I replaced the oil anyway. As mentioned somewhere, the sump threads on the front diff and one of the gearbox plugs were dodgy and would not lock tightly in - but not loose enough to fall out. Well taking the diff sump plug out finally did them in this time. I tried to get M13 self cutting (the originals are M12 1.5) plugs but none could be had so I bought some M14 plugs, a tap and a 12.5mm drill bit. The new hole was easily drilled and tapped and the new M14 sump plug went straight in.

My only oversight was picked up after I put the bash plate back - the hole in it to allow you to remove the sump plug is a little small but might work with a thin walled socket. Other wise next front diff oil change I will need to take the bash plate off and ream the hole a little.

I will put in the M14 sump plug in the gearbox when it is time to change its oil. I need to find some magnets to put in the new plugs but there is no swarf in there at the moment so not an urgent issue.

I mentioned that I have always had trouble with the front swing arm fulcrum pin oil seals leaking and am critical of the lubrication design - would have been easier not to have them lubricated by the diff oil and just greased though a grease nipple. Anyway when I did the front diff rebuild I replaced all the oil seals on the fulcrum but again as usual they are leaking again - I have managed to stop all the oil leaks in my Haffie except the front diff which does make a mess on my drive way so I either park of the grass or have a can of degreaser handy - having the bash plate back on will help as it will pool in the plate and hopefully disperse as I drive - not a big leak just drop here and there - guess I will have to live with it.

The rear swing arm seals that have not been replaced since I have had it - weep just a little but do not drop oil.

Garry

[heinkeljb]

I take it you did look at the various surfaces when you had the fulcrum's apart to see if there were scratches or other such things that would cause them to them to leak.
I think all that will happen with the oil leak and the bash plate in place is that you will end up with an oily muddy mess in bash plate! It is unlikely that the oil ill "disperse" other than to be blown backwards over remainder of the diff.

The front diff's do not appear to have those protector plates that sit under the rear diff's rubber gaiters. If you had a spare pair of those, you could turn them in a sort of cup to catch the oil and have a rag or a sponge that you could just change when it got full.

I found the front diff bash plate oil change hole to be the wrong size for any of my sockets that could undo the drain plug, so altered the size accordingly. The same for the drain plug fitted to the oil filter housing (I assume this one is only there if you have the spin on oil filter system).
The one drain on the rear diff is "no quite" directly between the appropriate gap in the rear bash plate, but near enough to allow me to get a socket on it to do an oil change. The sump drain plug has no access problems.

Shame you have had to resort to drilling and tapping the drain holes to larger sizes, but at least there is enough metal to do so with out any issues. You can buy little rod magnets which you could then drill suitable holes for in the ends of your new drain plugs (if they don't already have magnets on them). Some thread lock / adhesive / epoxy resin would then hold the magnets in place.

John

[AustHaflinger]

Hi John - yes all aspects of the pins were checked and seemed OK - yes the oil does drop into the bash plate but when driving the oil gets blown back to rustproof the underside of the tray - a good old landrover trick.

Something to live with I guess.

Garry