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PostPosted: Sun Nov 29, 2015 11:59 pm 
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Location: Canberra Australia
Thanks for the assistance.

What threw me was this page in the parts manual that shows the stones on the front axles but not on the rear axles.
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On the hub gear issue - I pulled the other large hub yesterday and there is some unusual markings on the teeth but they are still intack. In fact the original gears looked better with 60,000km on them.

I am going to take all these gears out now and put the 70kph gears back in. When I get a gear to replace the damaged one I will get them all checked over by an expert and if necessary get them rehardened. This will be down the track but I will keep you updated.

Garry

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 30, 2015 4:15 am 
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Gary , i have a full set . of 31 /14 gears

send me a phone number

kerry

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 01, 2015 12:09 am 
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Thanks to Dale from Haflinger Technik I have found out why my axle was able to slip out. At the hub end of the swing arm there is a bearing that supports the end of the axle and this is held in place with a circlip that also prevents the axle sliding out an inch or so.

When working on the hubs I did notice that there was a circlip on the failed hub but not on the other but didn't think much of of it as when assembled the circlip doesn't do much.

When I have the hubs apart next I will replace the circlip.

So thanks to Dale for his advice on this.

Garry

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 01, 2015 7:28 am 
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Gary,

That's a real bummer! Still as you have discovered, it still drove (even if badly) enough to get you home or at least to a more accessible place - Had you been out on a trail when it decided to start playing games.

Have you thought of taking the failed hub gears to some one with the equipment to test them for hardness? That way you will know for sure why it failed and hopefully be able to get replacements from the supplier.

John

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 01, 2015 2:30 pm 
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Hi John - yes but but there is no one local who can do it so I will take them up to Sydney (about 300km away) with me when I head up there next.

Garry

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 04, 2016 12:00 pm 
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Just an update.

The hub gears I had fitted came from Robert Prokschi in Austria and I have been discussing the issue with Matthias Prokschi who has been very helpful. He claims that in 12 years of supplying these gears they have not had an issue. He discussed the problem with the actual manufacturer and they have agreed to meet all costs associated with the replacement of the damaged gears - including shipping, labour costs in removal and ancillaries like oil, bearings, gaskets etc.

You really cannot get better than that but I am not after all the extras just a replacement set of gears. Problems can happen with any parts you get and it is good that Matthias will stand by his product.

I sent the full set of rear gears off just before Christmas and they should arrive at the Prokschi business today. For the Aussies who complain about shipping costs from Europe, you should try sending stuff the other way - $135 for 4 small gears via tracked airmail.

So we will see what happens on that front.

Separately I still have some concerns about the hardness of the gears so I have been in discussion with Kerry in Tasmania (kerry460) who has been able to supply me with a set of used OEM gears. These arrived today and they are in as new condition - and thanks to Kerry for supplying these and the work he did in preparing and sending them off.

The intention is to put in the OEM gears that Kerry provided into the rear over the next week or so. I will leave the Prokschi gears in the front as there is no evidence of their demise at the moment and replace them with the OEM gears when I have to do work on the front hubs. The aftermarket gears will go in the spare parts bin for the moment but I might get them hardness tested just be sure.

Garry

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 04, 2016 3:13 pm 
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Quote:
Matthias Prokschi who has been very helpful ... and they" (Prokschi or manufacturer?) "have agreed to meet all costs associated with the replacement of the damaged gears - including shipping, labour costs in removal and ancillaries like oil, bearings, gaskets etc."


That is a first class outcome, and one which needs applause. Well done them! :D

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 04, 2016 8:46 pm 
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That is outstanding customer service by Prokschi!
Happy to hear it is working out

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 08, 2016 6:34 am 
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Today started the process of putting the new rear hub gears in.

The bearings that are in the hub where the failed gears seem Ok but given the amount of swarf that was in the oil I decided the first process would be to put new bearings in - easier said than done.

I disassembled the hub to this level.
Image

No trouble getting any of the other bearings out but the one in the pic on the driveshaft is a different matter. To get the bearing out the driveshaft needs to be removed so that a hook can go behind the bearing to pull it out. Now to get the driveshaft out is a huge effort dissembling the swing arm etc so first risk assessment decision.

As mentioned the bearings all seem Ok, so the decision is to risk using this bearing or pull the axle out and replace it - decision was to leave it as is.

Second issue - I went to the bearing shop (in fact 3 shops) and got new lower (wheel bearings) but the top bearing that goes on the outer end of the drive shaft must be made of unobtainium because I could not get one - something unique about it. So - second risk management decision - run with the old bearing that seems fine or wait and search for a new one from somewhere - the old one is going back in.

So I guess only time will tell whether my Risk Management skills are up to scratch.

Oh (I have mentioned this before) - a lesson for new Haflinger players - see the castle nut on the end of the driveshaft in the pic. It is left hand thread but the driveshaft on the other side (right side of the vehicle) is right hand thread. Now this system is normally used to that with the shafts turning in the predominate direction (when driving forward) the nuts tighten. However this is unnecessary confusion as the nut is castellated and it held in place by a pin so cannot undo anyway.

So be aware that the nuts on the end of the driveshafts are left handed for the left side of the vehicle and right handed for the right side of the vehicle.

When I first had my hubs apart about 3 years ago - I must have spent about 3 hours trying to get this left handed threaded nut off (turning it anti-clockwise doesn't work ) before the :idea: came on. ;)


Garry

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 08, 2016 7:38 am 
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There are some things to do with the drive train that are difficult to obtain - the strange double lip oil seal on the front drive shafts and now a couple of bearings in the ear shafts... anything else?

I hope you at least cleaned them to remove as much swarf as you could. Don't forget to change the oil after a short run to try and remove any that you missed during this rebuild.

John

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 08, 2016 8:59 am 
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Yes there are a few things that you should be able to get anywhere that you cannot.

Yes the old bearings have been well cleaned, oiled and greased and yes hub oils will be changed initially quite often - a design issue with the hubs is that the drain plug is not right at the bottom of the hub - is about 3/8" up so any metal bits may not flow out when the oil is changed as they can get trapped at the bottom - in future I will flush the system out and using a bit of wire stir up the sediment at the bottom so it will flow out.

Garry

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 08, 2016 10:01 pm 
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Garry,
Are you still in need of the gears? I've a few spares and can dig them out for a look to see if they are of use.

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 08, 2016 10:53 pm 
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Location: Launceston Tasmania AUS,
Gary , there is a bearing puller that will remove that bearing without disasembly
it uses a ball with flats on the side , push in between inner and outer race then turn 90 degree to engage both races

kerry

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 09, 2016 1:13 am 
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Thanks Kerry - not heard of one of them and I will check at the tool shop next time I am there.

Hi Stuart - now have a set thanks to Kerry.

Another unobtanium item - well at least here in Canberra.

In the pic above there is a circlip that ensures the bearing on the drive shaft stays in. This is missing on the other hub so I took the one I have to the largest supplier of bearings and nuts and bolts in the area. Matched the size of the circlip and bought two - however when I got home I realised the circlips I bought were thicker that the original (1.8mm vs 1.2mm) and will not fit in the circlip slot in the housing. Went back to exchange and no luck - went to two other suppliers and no luck - all claim the thickness is unique and needs to be an original part.

I will use the old circlp I have for the hub above and I guess I will use the grinder to take the thickness of one of the other circlips for the other hub down to 1.2mm.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 12, 2016 1:19 pm 
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All back together now and running - the back seems a lot quieter with the new hub gears in - thanks Kerry.

I stayed with the old bearings on the driveshaft so we will just have to wait and see how that goes,

I had removed the gearbox/diff oil as it was running out of the hub end of the swing arms as I was doing this job.

The book says the capacity is 1.9 litres but when I put the oil back in it only took 1.2 litres - this was because the swing arms do not easily fill from the rear diff when stationary. So I went for a drive and then rechecked to oil level and it took another 400mls. I will check again after a longer drive so that I am sure the swing arms have filled up with oil.

So after work on the rear end where gearbox/diff oil has been removed and refilled, always recheck the oil level after a test drive - I guess the same applies for the front.

Garry

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 12, 2016 8:32 pm 
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Thanks for that tip as that could be easy to miss!

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 12, 2016 8:40 pm 
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G,,day , Gary .
i am pleased it is good .

cheers
kerry

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 09, 2016 9:07 am 
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I have now done about 300km since changing the rear hub gears.

As I had the rear jacked up to change a wheel cylinder I thought I would check and change the hub oil. The hub I had then previous trouble with the oil was black but not burnt and thick - with a small amount of silvering (microscopic metal bits). I am assuming that the dark colour is from the blue grease I used on the bearings and the silivering is left over from the previous issue. I expected as such.

The opposite hub - was similar - the oil a red colour from the red grease I used on that side - ran out of the blue stuff. Some silvering but less than the other side as this side had only a little wear last time around.

So I will check the hub oil in another 200km to be sure - doesn't take long to change the oil.

Garry

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