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PostPosted: Sat Sep 24, 2016 7:14 am 
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Discovered a bit of play in the nearside fulcrum pins the other day - I know the repair manual states that you will get play there but that it gets to a certain point and then doesn't get any worse!

Pretty sure mine is beyond what it should be. That means some sort of repair will have to take place. What are we looking at it terms of work?

Can you, for instance, undo the fulcrum pins and get over size ones as per the manual and do the repair without undoing everything else that holds the drive shaft in place?
If you can, that begs the question, How easy / difficult / what tools required to remove the pins? From what I remember of the manual, they unscrew? Does that mean they have a big slot in them for a big flat blade screw driver?

Has anyone bought a new (re-manufactured) fulcrum plate and if so what sort of price, from where (HaflingerTechnik), Did you have to ream the holes? If so, what size ream (I don't really fancy having to buy one - they probably are expensive and only get used once or twice)!

Better to know what you are getting into before you start than to realise later that you have a weeks worth of work when you only planned on one day!

John

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 24, 2016 8:58 am 
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Not quite sure what you are referring to, but if it is the pins 501.1.3212.2/xx (item 3-01 #16) then I have replaced mine with oversized ones; easier to get to with the body off, but the front ones at least were doable with the body on. I couldn't find a flat screwdriver with a wide enough blade so cobbled together a special tool - you would be more than welcome to borrow it.

EDITED TO ADD: I also couldn't get enough torque on a screwdriver, so using a ratchet handle helped enormously as well.


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 24, 2016 9:43 am 
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Thanks Julian,
Those are the items, front nearside, so all you did was wind them out and wind in new oversize ones? As I have no idea what size are in there currently. I presume I will have to take at least one out and measure it so I can see if there are oversize ones or if they are already at MAX size.

Let me see if I have a suitable tool, if not then I will in contact about borrowing your special socket.

John

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 24, 2016 9:55 am 
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Not sure I would describe it as "all I did" - getting them free and out was a bit of a task, but in hindsight totally doable. :)

I can't remember how the various sized pins are identified - possibly small coloured dots of paint on the new ones, but that won't help you identify the existing ones (as paint will have worn off). IIRC the replacements are not cheap (what's new!).

Looking at the Parts Book again, I recall that I also replaced the O Rings (3-01 #17) & _possibly_ the shims (#18). Trying to line all these bits up was not easy, but I found that if I wrapped the O Rings in clingfilm I could then insert and locate them much more easily and still get the swivel pin through the casing. Very much a case of the first one being hard, but the remainder much easier...

Haflinger Technik will almost certainly send you all sizes, and you only need to return what you don't use.

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 24, 2016 10:31 am 
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I just removed mine with a piece of flat stock that fit the large slot but mine may have come out easier than most?
May as well replace all rubber o-rings while you have them out.
Be glad it is the front, 1 pair of rears the tranny and centre tube has to be separated to get them out!

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 24, 2016 11:50 am 
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John - I know exactly what you are talking about - the book indicates different sizes but I am not sure if that is a reality in 2016. Have yours been dripping oil on your driveway floor - if not that is maybe why they have worn - supposed to take oil from the diff but mine takes a bit too much and of course despite being replaced twice the special O rings do not keep the oil in - again a rather stupid design that would have been better with a simple grease nipple and a grease at service time or just a rubber system like more modern cars.

The fulcrum pins just screw in and out and when clear of the threads just tap them out. Not sure if this is right or not but I was able to tighten mine up a bit by screwing them in a bit more (there is a slot in the end) so make sure they are screwed in as far as they will go without forcing them - might save pulling them apart cause to get all the bits lined up when reassembling is a pain.

Oh - did I mention that even with new oils seals they drip oil every where. When I just did my steering arm when I put the bash plate back on I lined it with some foam to soak up the oil to stop the drips on my garage floor.

As mentioned - don't even think about doing the rears unless you really need to - I hope the guy who designed that is serving hard labour somewhere replacing them as his sentence. Fronts are not too bad though.

Garry

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 24, 2016 3:46 pm 
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Sounds like it's not going to be a couple of hours of work, rather a couple of days :cry:

I'll get all the variations in sizes before I start work and hope than at least one size works correctly! Of course I will replace the "O" rings whilst I have the pins out.

John

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 25, 2016 2:14 am 
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heinkeljb wrote:
Sounds like it's not going to be a couple of hours of work, rather a couple of days :cry:

I'll get all the variations in sizes before I start work and hope than at least one size works correctly! Of course I will replace the "O" rings whilst I have the pins out.

John


If you are ready to go is only a couple of hours work at most - do one pin at a time so hopefully you don't have to pull anything extra down as the other pin holds things in place - now don't quote me on this but I do not think the O rings are normal O rings - I think they are a square section rather than a circular section to provide more area to seal the oil - double check this - normal O rings will work but as mine to may leak.

The front fulcrum pins are relatively easy.

Garry

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 25, 2016 6:27 am 
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I am guessing that these are not going to come out easily, this s the same side that had a hub full of water and rusted bearings when I got it! So nothing touched since the mid '80's I would guess....

The biggest issue obviously is that when I have replaced the pins with the nearest appropriate size to take out the play, I discover a different reason for the play. Won't know that until I change the pins for over size ones.

John

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 15, 2016 7:35 am 
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I have discovered from Dale at Haflinger Technik that there are two sorts of pins! Early ones (which they have stock of) and later ones - which, you guessed it, they don't have stock of!

You can also guess that Lurch is of the later variety!

Apparently you can take the early ones out and turn then 90 degrees and put them back in which can take out the play. I am not sure you can do this with the later ones as the pins are threaded, which will mean they only go in one way.

So other than having new bushes and the rubber seals and washers, not sure what I will be able to do. Any body know if one of the European suppliers has the later pins?

John

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