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PostPosted: Wed Aug 16, 2017 6:51 am 
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It gets better... Alf took the engine out, gearbox out and took it to pieces, again, to see if was something that he had done wrong in the gearbox.He didn't find anything untoward so good news. Put it back together again and back under Lurch. The only other thing that could cause the problems we had was the clutch. When he took it apart, there was a lot of "Crud" round the outside edge which could have been preventing the clutch plate from moving properly.
When we first took the engine out, we noticed that the spring that returns the clutch release bearing was broken. This was replaced, but we didn't go any further than that. Alf found little bits of metal in the crud he removed, which presumably was the remains of the broken spring. Anyway, he put the engine back in and adjusted things back up again all during the week by himself. I was fully expecting to go back up to his place and help pull it all apart again, instead I went back up there and helped do some final adjustments and then drove Lurch home again!

Drive home was pretty uneventful as far as Lurch actually driving. No more bearing whine, just straight cut gear whine! Biggest scare was when Lurch lost all electrical power going up a hill on the A20 (triple lane carriageway) out of London! Luckily I was able to cross the one nearside lane and get on to the hard shoulder before Lurch ground to a halt!

No lights on the dash! Er???? Is that smoke I see coming up past the windscreen? Quick, turn the Battery cutoff switch and look for the source! Ah! some melting plastic covering the wires coming to the Ammeter. Quick check following the wires back to the engine compartment revealed the cause. Where we have had the bodywork up and down we had cut the cable ties holding the wire up out of the way and without the cable ties it was able to dangle down and touch the heat exchanger. Short road trips obviously did not get the heat exchanger hot enough to melt the plastic covering the wires, but seventy odd mile was! Cut the offending wires out and reconnect the wiring as it was originally in engine compartment, all the while with cars / lorries zooming past was interesting to say the least!
That done, check I have no other blown fuses and then check I have ignition.... Great, all working again. Start Lurch as if nothing had happened and spend a while waiting for a suitable gap to get Lurch going as fast as possible up hill to be able to join the traffic.

An uneventful rest of the trip home.

Now all I have to do is some final "tinkering". Like redo the wiring for the Ammeter, adjust the brakes, adjust the clutch as they all are a little bit out now that things have settled into place.

Next outing a Trials this weekend at Aldermaston. Will be only doing the easy bit and not trying any of the harder bits until I have a few more miles on the new bearings in the gearbox.

Oh, and Alf also sorted out the other diff that had seized! So now I have a "good" spare 4 speed + Krawler gearbox and diff if needed.

Need to make up a trophy for Alf!

John

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 16, 2017 7:12 am 
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Great news, and HT to Alf. Did he have a view as to why the other diff had seized?

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 16, 2017 8:08 am 
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We know what happened, the outer tube part of the diff went oval by a few thou, but that was enough for it to heat up and seize. Biggest mystery is how and why it went oval!!
There is nothing that touches that bit that might have made it oval other than a bearing. I suppose it is possible that whilst fitting it, it went in at an angle and the hammering to get it straight might have bent something? Don't know as you don't hammer such things very hard!

John

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 16, 2017 10:25 am 
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Hi John - glad it has been sorted - well done to all involved.

Garry

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 17, 2017 8:33 pm 
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Now I have to go round and re-adjust lots of things:

Brakes - we had to break the rear brake line and so now have re-adjust brake shoes and re-bled the system.

Now I notice the rear differential lock lever doesn't work exactly as it should due to play in ALL the various joints not just due to the position of the final "U" adjuster on the actual differential casing.

Question:

How do you take apart the cover bit in the cab where the rear diff lever goes though the platform?

It has 3 pins which poke through a triangular shaped metal cover and you can turn the cover about 20 degrees. Mine does not appear to hold the lever when you pull it up to engage the rear diff lock. So I think I need to replace the rubber bung and make sure there is a "bump" on the lever shaft.

John

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 18, 2017 12:10 am 
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You have to push the three little knobs in at the same time (far easier said than done) and then lift the metal collar off then pull the rubber ring and then replace it. It is friction between the rubber ring and the lever that holds the lever in position - I don't think there is a notch in the lever.

Garry

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 18, 2017 5:54 am 
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No notch, but a bulge in the shaft of the lever.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 18, 2017 6:27 am 
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Apparently there is supposed to be a "bump" on the bulge bit which gives the positive "Lock" to pulling the shaft up through the rubber. Still now I know how the cover come off, anyone got any tips on how to compress all 3 pins at the same time and get the cover off? or is it just a question of bending the cover where the pins are a bit.

Another weird Haflinger design bit - "Just because we could"!!!

What would be wrong about having a ball bearing and a spring and a notch on the shaft?

Many thanks for the pointer Gary.

John

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 18, 2017 7:30 am 
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From memory, it is "just" a matter of pushing one or two pins in with a drift / punch and _slightly_ raise the cover by them, & then working around to the other pins; not a great design !

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| '62 Early Series I SWB | '72 Series II LWB |
| '56 Citroën Traction Avant |


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