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PostPosted: Fri Jul 28, 2017 5:00 am 
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I'm seeing varied techniques for this job, but in looking at the books, and forum posts I'm not seeing why the hub trans has to be disassembled to replace a CV boot, or service the CV joint?

Can I just pull the upper and lower joints, and pull the entire assembly off, then do the work on the boot and be done?

This is for a '63 truck with a rubber boot, not one of those ultra advanced high tech types you Type 2 elitists have. :D

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 28, 2017 6:49 am 
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CLEAN Everything first!

In order to get the front hub out so you can change the rubber boots, you will have to disconnect the following items:-

Brake line.
Steering tie rod joint
Top swivel pin, (King pin)
Bottom swivel pin, King Pin)

The pull the entire hub outwards, don't forget that if you have left the brake hub, brake shoes etc in place, the unit will be quite heavy!
Watch out that you don't pull the inner splined drive shaft to far out from the Diff as you pull the hub off

Whilst you have it that far apart, clean and re-grease the Repeza joint (CV joint).

When you put it back together, be careful of the oil seal at the end of the drive arm. Easy to cut it with the splines and then it will leak.

Be careful to get the splines to line up as you put it back in or it will not fit and you will end up cursing!

There are some long threads regarding this which you can look at. Both Gary and I had the task of taking hubs and drive shafts off.

If you need further clarification post and we will do our best to help.

John

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 28, 2017 4:58 pm 
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That's basically what I thought, however some threads mention breaking down the hub to release the shaft.

It's basically like most other transmission work, be careful of seals and surfaces, etc.

Thanks for the clarification, I still don't think I'll tackle this before the car show in early August that the haf is entered into, but I'll hit it immediately afterwards.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 28, 2017 6:49 pm 
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You don't specifically have to dismantle the hub, but for some it makes sense to do so if they are going to be dismantling the swivel pins as well as it does make the bit you will be "manhandling" much lighter without the two cogs, brake shoes, and the aluminium bake plate.
Biggest problem would be undoing the top shaft nut as you have to hold the cog tight enough to undo the nut on the end of the shaft.

Actually, the Operators manual has a very good description of taking the hub off to re-grease the joint.

John

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 29, 2017 1:59 am 
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Be careful to dont let the drive shafts come out of the diff end or else you will have to pull the swing arm boots off the get the shaft back in.

It been a while since I worked on my hubs so i cannot remember what needs to come off the hubs and what you leave on - some of my posts back in about 2013 cover it but I guess with the demise of Photobucket some of the pics may not be there.

Garry

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 29, 2017 8:46 pm 
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Thanks guys, yeah Garry the photobucket pics are gone.

I'm getting the urge to get into the teardown today, just pulled the wheel and brake drum off to take a peek. Threw some penetration oil on various threads and now I'm going to start scrubbing it down to prep for pulling.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 30, 2017 11:26 pm 
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Good God this thing is filthy.

How's that for an update?

Actually it's gone pretty smoothly, had to thread a 1/4-20 bolt in 7x0.75, but that was about the only sticking point. CV is pretty filthy too. Good I'm doing this now, I think I can save it. I might get it back in and assembled today, then maybe I'll tackle the other one tomorrow.

ETA: Only thing gone wrong so far is the large band for the boot is too large, had to grind the shoulders down. Oh, and 80g of moly lube in that cv and boot? Yeah, not happening. :roll:

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 31, 2017 6:38 am 
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Can you MOD it by drilling a hole and fitting a grease nipple, fill with grease, then take the nipple off and replace with low profile bolt? Some people have done that with the later metal covered CV's

John

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 31, 2017 3:03 pm 
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Nope, this is a Series 1 Swiss truck, so it's basically just the CV cup, and then the rubber boot that gets two metal bands holding it on. No real space for running a grease fitting, other than right into the CV itself, but those are harder than hell to drill and tap.

Eventually I'll probably upgrade it to the later CV's with the all metal protection, but for now this should work.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 01, 2017 6:34 am 
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How about fitting the rubber boot, leaving the small end metal band off (or loosening it), then get a metal tube which you can insert under the lip of the rubber boot, the other end of which is connected to your grease gun. That way you could fill / top up the CV without dismantling the hub each time. - Just a thought.

Haflinger Technik were selling a new fangled "replacement" CV joint a few years back, don't know if they still have stock or if it is a currently manufactured item meaning there will be stock for a long time.

John

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 01, 2017 12:30 pm 
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I had those type of CVs on my Freelander and Subaru - really when the boots filled with grease and clamped up they do not need serviceing until the boot splits next time (a regular occurance on my Subaru). If you ever need to change the grease mid life - you just cut the big clamp, pull the boot back and refill and put on a new clamp.

I used to carry a roll of kitchen cling wrap in my subaru and some cable ties - if the boot split when out driving I just wrapped it in the cling wrap and held it in place with cable ties - would stay in place no issue for thousands of Km - not sure if the Haflinger boots are prone to splitting but if they are modern replacements made from crap rubber they probably will. :(

Most modern vehicles run CVs like the earlier Haflinger ones rather than the self contained ones like I have in my Haflinger so I doubt unless there was a failed CV there would be any reason to consider an upgrade. The only reason to change is if the rubber boots are made of poor rubber.

Garry

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 05, 2017 4:29 am 
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John - usually the only way that the CV really has problems is when the boot actually rots, and then you get contaminants in. If the boot is in good shape, that grease will last years.

Garry - I really like that cling wrap idea! I'm going to have to start carrying something like that, or a trash bag and zip ties.

In any case, I'm done with one side. Had to re-use the original large cable clamp, the supplied one was too large. Old one worked out fine though. Also, for those of you in the future, the top threads are 7x1.00, and I now have a 36" length of that, in all thread. If anyone needs a section to make into a puller, shoot me a pm, pay shipping and I'll send you a chunk of it. No way I'll need this much before I die, I've already got enough of it for a couple of pullers, which will last me as long as I have this truck.

I'm not going to be able to do the other side this weekend, I'm taking the Haffy to a car show, should be plenty entertaining to park it next to something very shiny that produces a thousand HP or so. Who knows, maybe it'll garner an award! I also did a repaint in three color NATO, getting the semi-gloss original RAL paint is quite a bit more pricy, and I intend to use this truck as a hunting vehicle in the future.

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 05, 2017 8:06 am 
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If you read the manual (I know, not what men do)! It gives a service interval for changing the grease in the CV joint. So even if the grease lasts a long time it will eventually get contaminated with metal filings which will cause damage in the long term.
Biggest issue with a Haflinger is the short service intervals for all the service items!

Post some pictures of the Haf at the show, maybe it will get more interest then the high price super cars!

John

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 05, 2017 4:44 pm 
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You're right, manuals....pffffft.

Good catch on the service interval, I never noticed that!

Yah, I'll post pictures when it's over.

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 06, 2017 2:52 am 
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The CVs in my Range Rover Sport which are basically the same as your Haffies have now been in 10 years (from new) and covered 80,000miles and are still going no issues - they are not serviceable in theory and if they start clicking you just replace them - so using modern CV grease the Haffie CVs should last the life of the vehicle - as mentioned the issue is modern knock off boots are made of cheap rubber and soon split or perish which is the problem.

Good luck with them.

Garry

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 06, 2017 4:38 am 
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Well, I'm hoping that the boots aren't the same quality as the shift lever rubber, that's for sure. If they don't last I might just try those expensive split boots that use a bonding agent to seal. Either that or I'll say the heck with it and find a pair of fully enclosed later model CV joints.

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 06, 2017 8:02 am 
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Haflinger Technik's new replacement versions they were selling a few years ago had rubber boots on them. So you would be looking for old stock if you wanted the metal shrouded version.
Does the rubber on your ones feel like the same as the rubber you had for the gear lever? You could try covering them in "silicon" grease / rejuvenator before using them - but that supposes they are the same type of rubber substitute and need something to stop them going brittle.

John

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 06, 2017 9:50 pm 
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Feel is the same, but being thicker, the CV boots might well last longer. The shift lever boot immediately rotted on the very thin rubber layer, and I don't think that the CV boots have this. At least I'm hoping not. Time will tell.

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