Front hub oil leaks

[Adam]

Both front hubs are leaking oil at the cv joints. One side on the wheel side of cv and other side on swing axle side. Swing axle side looks like 2 rubber seals and a race in parts book. Wheel side also has some rubber seals in parts book. Anyone changed these seals and any tricks I should know about?? Cheers, Adam. Apart from a few leaks she's driving like a dream!

[AustHaflinger]

The swing axle side is a special seal that I have not seen in any engineering parts shops. I had to get mine from Haflinger Technik and they are not cheap. Plus you may have a groove worn in the metal running surface but can be fixed with a speedie sleeve.

Repaired with the speedie sleeve

The oil seal on the hub side is a standard type of seal and can be probably sourced locally.

Garry

Ps - Adam I deleted your duplicate thread.

[Adam]

Cheers Gary, Haflingertechnik are doing pretty well out of me so far, will maybe pull apart on weekend and see what I can find.

[heinkeljb]

I think there are various posts regarding these two leaks on here. The inboard one is expensive to fix if you can't cure it with speedie sleeve. The oil seal is a strange double lip one which, as Gary has pointed out is difficult to source other than from the Haflinger spares suppliers. The surface it seals on can be replaced as a whole (the dirt shield including the sealing surface can be bought). It is worth removing this part to replace the "o" that is at it's outboard end. This stops the oil seeping down the splines and leaking out from that path.

The hub seals have also been discussed on here, so should have enough detail to help you swap things out.

John

[Adam]

Haven't had anything to do with speedy sleeves, have ordered parts from dale( we pretty much family now I've got so much stuff off him!). Hopefully the race for the inward oil seal is ok, will find out on weekend. Thanks for your help. Next post will be regarding dynastart not charging but that's getting ahead of myself!!!!

[heinkeljb]

That’s always the way - Dale knows as soon as you start ordering if you’ll be back very quickly or that you are only fixing something that has broke!

John

[Adam]

Do I have to remove suspension springs to remove the upper bushing for the upper swivel pin? Maybe remove limit straps to let swing arm drop down to get upper bushes out?? Obviously I'm no mechanic, but making good progress.

[heinkeljb]

If you disconnect the limit strap, you can drop the swing arm down low enough just to lift out the spring. Then uou have access to the top swivel pin (King pin).
Can be a sod to get out if it has made a lip on the pin. Make sure you clean the threaded hole right the way down to the bottom, you need all the thread length you can get!!
One of the tricks is to cut a slot in the top of the pin and then use a punch to make it turn 90 degrees before trying to pull it out. That sometimes gets round the lip that can for because the steering only turns a limited amount each time you turn the steering wheel.

John

[Adam]

Thanks John, hopefully it has been replaced recently and not too hard to remove, thanks for tips, will let you know how I go.

[Adam]

Top kingpin came out no worries, will attach a photo of the race, has a couple of wear rings, how does speedy sleeve work or should I just order another one, ??

[Adam]

Rffrd frggsehdjddu dudjrudu fisheye dueudud disused sududud Rushdie shehdud .

Sorry, saying I don't have enough characters in message to send. See wear lines in the photos

[AustHaflinger]

Wear lines are OK - but groves are not.

I enlarged that pic of yours about 200x and I cannot see any grooves but the top one doea look a bit feral - I would get some 2000 grade wet and dry and give it a polish up and see how it looks.

Speedi Sleeve - see this link and view the video http://www.skf.com/au/products/seals/in ... index.html. I dont think you will need one but if you do just take the bits in your pic to your local engineering shop and they will provide what you need and may even tap it on for you. All easy.

If you did have a groove you should fill the groove with eboxy metal and then smooth off the excess so the shaft is all smooth. This is because the speedi sleeve is exceptionally thin and any heat that is generated from the rotating shaft against the oil seal is dissipated into the shaft - but if there is an airgap here the groove is, localised heating can occur so by filling the groove heat is removed.

Speedie sleeves cost about $30 - $50 and are a great invention.

Garry

[Adam]

Thanks for all the advice! Can certainly feel a groove on the shaft. Tried to clean up with emery paper but wasn't confident so went for safe option and ordered new one from dale. Hopefully this way I won't have to do hop twice, although I am getting quicker at it!!

[AustHaflinger]

Easier and cheaper with a speedie sleeve - that is exactly what they were designed for.

[Adam]

Cool, will repair with speedy sleeve for a spare.

[heinkeljb]

Hope you ordered the "O" ring as well, or that you have a suitable one you can source locally.....

John

[Adam]

Just got new seals from Haflingertechnik, seal for wheel side of cv, 9003820, is a 47/30/10. The seal that was in hub was a 47/30/7, only width of seal different, will this be an issue, was original seal wrong, or an I wrong?? Any advice???

[Adam]

All good, new seals in no worries!!