TheHaflinger.com

Well that is bad news .

Looks like what I had - if it is it will be the relatively expensive oil seal in the outboard end of the swing arm that the driveshaft runs through - you should be able to fix it without dismantling the hub (needs to come off though) - but you already know all that. If you do pull the swing arm out, make sure you replace the O rings on the swing arm fulcrum pins and the o rings either side of the inner swing arms - these leak like a sieve and you loose a lot of diff oil.

The design of having diff oil down the swing arms is not one one the better deign ideas.

Oh - I have mentioned my front end growl in the past - still not resolved but I believe it was caused by continued driving on low diff oil caused by the leak you seem to have - when driving the oil really pours out of that swing arm seal.

Good luck with it.

Garry

I shall just top up the oil over the next couple of weeks as there are various shows coming up which i have booked Lurch into.

I obviously need to remove the hub to find out what's wrong. Has the collar worn or has the oil seal just given up? Or both? I might be able to get away with just moving the position of the oil seal a little.

Maybe I should buy one of those speedie sleeves just to make the collar that fraction bigger.

John

I would top up before use and use sparingly. All you need to do is disconnect the brake line, the tie rod, and the king pins and pull the whole hub assembly out with the CV - pull the seal out of the swing arm and replace (25 quid) - make sure you do not pull the inner shaft out too much as it a pain to get back in. If the face the seal runs on is like mine (early pic I put up) then a speedie sleeve will be needed.

Just a mornings job - easy peasy

Garry

All that was done no less than 500 odd mile ago - that's what really burns me. I replaced both the seal and the dished collar because the old ones were worn. it's not as if those miles were off road either - most were tarmac.

I know it not an awful lot of work but having to break the brake system again and bled it afterwards is just plain awkward.

I have other things I need to do to Lurch like, dismantle and replace all the gaskets in the Carb tying to get rid of the low power issue. I was also going to spend money on getting tyres for some 13 inch rims.

So as you can see - just not very pleased with Lurch at the moment!

John

Yes - as we would say here - "Not Happy Jan" to have to be Aussie to understand but you get the drift - (was an ad for the telephone business directory and Jan forgot to put in the listing for the business she works for).

I have covered just under 1000km in the month or so mine has been back on the road and all is holding up OK so something with yours does not sound right. Maybe the seal did not seat properly on the collar on the CV end of the shaft and it chewed out. I had to push mine in quite a few times.

Yes it is a pain in the ........ when you think you have fixed something and it comes back to bite you. At least the weather is getting better.

Garry

I have bought both bit in case when I pull it apart the collar is shot as well as the seal. It would be just my luck that both bit are damaged and I only bought a seal!

I don't know how much a speedi repair sleeve of the correct size would cost, but I am guessing it will be somewhere near the cost of a new collar - So I have gone that route. Next time (here's hoping there is NOT a next time), I will get a sleeve to put on the collar.

John

A speedie sleeve was $45 AUD about £30 here but where I live things are more expensive than the rest of Aust and Aust is more expensive than the UK - just checked the SKF UK site - around £25 inc VAT.

Is that collar pressed on? When I did mine I must admit I just assumed it was an intergral part of the shaft

Garry

Hi Garry,
The collar just slides on the splines of the shaft. It is a close fit but does not require a press.
Cheers,
Steve

Thanks Gary,

I will buy one "next" time - I have already got the collar coming. Also, as I do not know what damage has been done to the two parts in question, those sleeves need a relatively good surface to be slid on too. The original ones I took off, would need the "canyons" filling before a sleeve could be used.

So now Lurch awaits time to dismantle and rebuild.

John

Thanks for that Steve.

Does anyone know what Torque the bolts in the haflinger engine must be tightened to.
also what Torque must the bolts in hubs be tightened to?

Nathan,

Have a look at this thread:-

https://www.thehaflinger.com/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=642

has torque tables. If you can't find specific ones that you need, make a new post and let us know exactly which ones you need. I hope you have at least a Parts book and hopefully, also the maintenance book (Workshop manual) - although sometimes that is not terribly much help as it has places where it assumes you have had "factory" training!!!

John

Thanks alot John.
I found what i needed.
I have the owners manual,parts manual and wiring manual but I couldn't find the Torque.
Much appreciated

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