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 Post subject: Synthetic oil
PostPosted: Sun Apr 14, 2013 4:14 am 
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Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2013 7:40 am
Posts: 240
Location: Cairns , Australia
I know that in the engine /carb index it was advised not to use synthetic oil in your engine, but is it safe to use synthetic oil in the gearbox and drive train etc?
Dave


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 Post subject: Re: Synthetic oil
PostPosted: Sun Apr 14, 2013 8:38 am 
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Joined: Sun Dec 30, 2012 4:38 pm
Posts: 192
Location: Graz, Austria
Hi David,

regarding the gearbox oil, I heard that one should not use GL5 specification which is suitable for hypoid gear (and can hence take high shear forces). The problem is, as far as I know, that GL5 oils contain aggressive additives which damage on the long run e.g. the syncronisation rings made of nonferrous metals.

The recommendation is to use less aggressive oils with specification GL4.


Kind regards,
Constantin


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 Post subject: Re: Synthetic oil
PostPosted: Thu Apr 25, 2013 8:05 am 
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Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2013 7:40 am
Posts: 240
Location: Cairns , Australia
I purchased this oil some time ago for the gearbox and drive train etc. I spoke to the people who I purchased it from regarding it being synthetic . He contacted the import agent to check if it was ok to use on a gearbox with non ferous parts , they assured me that it was ,as they also have old vehicles with non ferrous parts and use the same oil. your comments would be appreciated.


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 Post subject: Re: Synthetic oil
PostPosted: Sun Sep 20, 2015 8:54 pm 
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Joined: Sat Aug 16, 2014 6:50 pm
Posts: 76
Location: Ontario, Canada
I've got a similar question:
From reading forums about VW's I learned that GL5 is harder on sychros than GL4, so it is not recommended as a substitute when GL4 is specified.
I mistakenly bought a synthetic GL5 75w-90 for my '89 Golf and am now wondering If I can put it into the haflinger, if not into the gearbox, then maybe into the hubs or front axle.

Would the synthetic GL-5 be okay for that, since there are no synchro rings or any other non-ferrous metals there?


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 Post subject: Re: Synthetic oil
PostPosted: Sun Sep 20, 2015 9:08 pm 
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Joined: Sun Dec 30, 2012 12:49 pm
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Location: Lewes, East Sussex - UK
It should work for the hubs with out issues. I am not sure the service intervals on oil for the front Diff is actually long enough for it to cause any issues even if there are any non-ferrous metals in there.

Just change the oils more frequently and use it all up, then buy the correct stuff!

John

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 Post subject: Re: Synthetic oil
PostPosted: Sun Sep 20, 2015 9:31 pm 
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Joined: Sun Dec 30, 2012 11:27 pm
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Location: Ontario, Canada
Most people do not use synthetic in the hubs because if it leaks it will ruin your brake shoes where dino oil will not
But up to each owner

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 Post subject: Re: Synthetic oil
PostPosted: Mon Sep 21, 2015 6:30 am 
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Location: Lewes, East Sussex - UK
Any oil on your brake shoes will ruin them - synthetic oil of the correct grade in the hubs should not leak unless there is a hole, but the same is true of non-synthetic oil!

I think the real reason for not using synthetic oil on a Haflinger is down to early generation oils which might have had chemical additives that would attack non Ferrous metals over the extended service intervals that synthetic oils allowed. The other reason is cost - synthetic oils tend to cost more than organic base oils.

John

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 Post subject: Re: Synthetic oil
PostPosted: Tue Sep 22, 2015 2:05 am 
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Joined: Sat Aug 16, 2014 6:50 pm
Posts: 76
Location: Ontario, Canada
Thanks for the comments!
I guess I'll put it into my hubs and front diff, since my regular car has neither hubs nor diff to safely put GL5 in.
All the auto store people I talked to told me that GL5 supercedes GL4 and doesn't harm anything, but the internet says otherwise, so even if its a myth, I feel more confident erring on the safe side.


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 Post subject: Re: Synthetic oil
PostPosted: Tue Sep 22, 2015 1:54 pm 
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Joined: Tue Feb 05, 2013 10:25 am
Posts: 132
Location: Inverness, Scotland
I know (from experience) that the sulpher in GL5 will degrade the white metal that are used in gearbox syncromesh so do not use it there.

Personally I've had good experience using Castrol Syntrans 75/90 fully synthetic throughout - it's quite pricy/litre but does aid smooth shifting and protection; one other advantage - when cold it doesn't seem as viscous as the conventional mineral 75/90w oils, so readily unleashes more of that raw Haflinger power!

No problems with leaks, etc.


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 Post subject: Re: Synthetic oil
PostPosted: Tue Sep 22, 2015 4:28 pm 
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Location: San Bernardino Ca USA
Have fun trying to shift gears in cold weather :roll:
There is a reason the factory used straight 90wt. 75-140wt is very viscous at low temps :!:

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 Post subject: Re: Synthetic oil
PostPosted: Wed Sep 23, 2015 2:41 am 
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Location: Canberra Australia
I am an advocate od using the original oils as specified - modern oils may last longer but they often cause unintended side effects.

My Landrover 101 runs engine oil in the gearbox and transfer case and many people think this is wrong and put in modern gearbox oil which promptly kills the gearbox as it is too thick for the oil pump in the gearbox and corrodes the phosphorous bronze components. Engine oil is cheap and easily obtained but people think that modern gear oils must be better.

Last year I was very low on engine oil and the only oil I had at home was the 10w30 Full Synthetic (a very hi tech very expensive oil) that goes in my diesel Range Rover Sport - no issue I thought as it was a much higher spec than the Haffie uses and would only be in for a short time until I could get some proper engine oil (the haffie and the 101 use the same stuff). Well the Haffie engine did not like the Full Synthetic oil - oil pressure would not come up (too thin?) and it seemed to disappear from the engine - not leaked but just seemed to go down so I assumed it was being burnt quickly - as soon as I replaced it with the good old mineral oil that I normally use - oil pressure back up and oil usage stopped.

So for me - I prefer to stay with the old oil - it is cheap, works and less risky - I am happy for others to wreck their engines or gearboxes experimenting but I am too risk adverse.

Garry

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 Post subject: Re: Synthetic oil
PostPosted: Wed Sep 23, 2015 10:41 am 
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Location: Ontario, Canada
I don't know about you guys, but I have trouble finding straight 90 gear oil in Canada that isn't for marine outboard motors, which isn't the same grade as auto gear oil (EP vs GL4/5). And specialty oils are all modern synthetic multigrades.

The only straight 30 mineral based engine oil I've seen is a Castrol and a John Deere diesel tractor oil. I'm inclined to use the diesel tractor oil if only because nobody cares about the diesel emissions of tractors (here in Canada anyway) and I assume they would have more helpful additives than gasoline auto oils where emissions requirements are stricter.

Is there any merit to my train of thought on diesel oil?


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 Post subject: Re: Synthetic oil
PostPosted: Sat Mar 26, 2016 12:42 pm 
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Location: Lewes, East Sussex - UK
The only problem with diesel oils is they tend to have other additives which petrol oils don't have, as you mentioned but if you can find the correct grade then in a Haflinger with 1200 mile intervals, I doubt the oil really has time to be altered drastically.

I would use it if I couldn't get hold of straight 30 and 40 weight oils here in the U.K.

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