Disconnecting the central drive tube

[Julian B]

I would like to disconnect the central tube from the front "axle" sub assembly and also from the rear "axle" sub assembly, so that I can clean it, de-rust it and re-paint it.

If I split it between #16 and #20 on the image below (and at the same point at the rear end), will anything "fall out" / be difficult to put back in & re-align etc. If it is I won't bother with this part of the strip down, as I don't want to start something that is difficult to put back together.

TIA

[heinkeljb]

Looking at the parts book, the only thing I can see which would be a pain to put back together is the spiral drive that goes into / onto the differential drive gear.
But then, I have never taken that bit to pieces, so what do I know!

I am sure some one who has, will pipe up soon!

John

[AustHaflinger]

I am interested in responses from those in the know - I have to fix my bearing noise which is coming from the front - suspect the diff or the front bearings on the shaft that brings the drive from the back. So I have to pull this off as well.

Garry

[ogdenenterprise]

Hi Julian,
There is a spline socket where the center tube connects to the gear box & similar at the front. so nothing will drop out. sorry I cant find any photos of the front spline, but I will stand corrected if wrong that the front spline is on page 310/0 part no.11 which is the four wheel drive selector (muff Coupling).

Dave

[ogdenenterprise]

Julian , If you do decide to remove the center tube ,when you rebuild it ,I was advised by Tony Herlja ( ex Melbourne production line assembly) that there is no gasket between item 16 & 20 as this will alter the measurements for the spacers, hope this helps.
Dave

[Julian B]

Dave, Thanks for both of those posts - very helpful. I had noted from the parts book that there was no gasket between 16 &20, but (& sorry if I am being a bit dim here) could you clarify what spacers you are referring to above?.

I see from your photos that you also removed the drag links; the parts book mentions a variety of shims of different thicknesses for the bolt that connects the drag links to the central tube (#38 & #39 on page 4-05). This is presumably so that one can ensure the axles are at 90 degrees to the centreline of the Haflinger. Assuming that you replaced the rubber cones (#32), can I ask how you worked out what thickness of shim to use? The thicknesses are all very similar, so I take from that that this might be regarded as an important dimension ...

Julian

[ogdenenterprise]

Hi Julian , I was referring to the shims on page 3 10/0 no,s 9a-9p. I did not replace the rubber cones as they seemed in good condition so I re-used them.
Dave

[pathfinder700ap]

Julian,

I would not worry too much about the shims #38 and #39 on page 4-05. If there should be substantial problems when re-fitting the drag links you may still think about other sizes of shims. Since your shims are possibly the original ones, it also seems likely to me that they will be suitable again when it comes to re-assembly.

I think it makes sense to replace the rubber cones. Mine were heavily deformed and hard when I pulled them out.


Regards,
Constantin