Removing Rear Swing Axles

[Julian B]

As part of my strip down & re-furb I'd like to remove the REAR swing axles, to give them a clean, a re-paint and possibly replace the swivel pins (3-01, #16) and associated bushes etc.

Whilst I have already done the front axles (fun job that wasn't!) how do you extract the swivel pins on the rear axles; the rear pins won't come out fully due to the bell housing, and one of the front ones will foul the gearbox casting.

Anyone done this, and if so how would I do it?

TIA

[AustHaflinger]

Because of the ridiculous lubrication system of the fulcrums (diff oil rather than external lubrication) all of mine drip oil. I looked at pulling the the rears out to replace the seals but I came to the conclusion that the bell housing and other stuff would have to come out .

I hope at the end of this thread I would like to be proved wrong as if I can fix mine my Haffie will be oil leak free,

Let the positive answers begin.

Garry

[Julian B]

Garry, a while ago I replaced all four of my front axle swivel pins (due to play), and took the opportunity to replace the large rubber boots at the same time. Whilst not exactly easy, at least it was do-able without removing the body (!!!) - the only thing that I recall that I had to remove was the speedo gear housing (v easy).

But with the rear axles, the bell housing can not be removed. Maybe the Diff Side Covers (3-01, #22A and 22B) have to come off too? Hopefully not, as I have a phobia about undoing such things for fear of ending up with a pile of bits on the floor that I haven't got a clue how to put back in

[heinkeljb]

Julian,
As I said when looking at it with you, I think you have to take the Diff side plate off - I just can't see how you can get either pin out with e castings in the way.
I would love to be proved wrong as it would obviously make life much easier.

Looking at the parts book, it seems that if you had the side you were working on up higher than the other side, that you could undo the various nuts holding the Diff side plate on and "gently" pull it away - with some one watching with screwdriver(s) / fingers to keep all the other bits "inside" the Diff whilst the drive shaft / swing arm came out with that strange square washers on it part company with the slotted cup inside the Diff.

I too, am watching this set of threads carefully as no doubt I will have to do this to Lurch at some point.

John

[pathfinder700ap]

Hey there,

you have to take off the half axles together with the differential gear housing side covers. You will note that the differential side covers have small noses (I think 3). One is on top, the other two on the side/bottom of the covers. These noses allow to apply force to open the covers.

You start with the lhs cover. By doing that, nothing will fall out, because the differential inside is locked by the gearbox input shaft and may not move towards the lhs cover. When undoing the rhs cover, the whole differential inside will come out as well. Have a good read in the repair manual! The process is well described there.

Also, the position of the differential inside is defined via two shims that go inbetween the main bearings and the differential. These shims must go back where they came from - don't put them in the wrong place when re-assembling, otherwise the adjustment is wrong.

Also, be careful when removing the half-axle-side-cover assembly. The side covers may break if you hit the noses too hard. Destroying a side cover is a bit of a pain in the back, because with a new one, also the positioning of the differential inside must be re-done (new shims etc...).

Regards,
Constantin

[HerrFlinger]

Hello -
This is where mine is up to at the moment . . . I had a lot of play in the pins, so I have decided to install new ones. Just to re-iterate Constantin's comments above, go easy when knocking off the side cover. A little at a time using a hardwood block worked for me with no damage. I was surprised to find there was no gasket - or sealant - between the two faces. I didn't leak though !
Paul

[pathfinder700ap]

Hello Paul,

yes, I also used a wooden part between the noses and the hammer - worked fine.
There is a thin rubber o-ring that goes on the side cover as a seal. However I'd still apply a thin coat of sealant (e.g. Curil K2) between housing and cover.


Regards,
Constantin